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Post bbq tick users. WHICH OIL?

markbehr

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I would be interested to see what’s going on with these genIII Coyote engines. At first I thought everyone was blowing this bbq tick thing out of proportion. But I’ve seen a lot of failures. Hard to say if the tick is a sign of the problem or just a coincidence. Either way it’s weird.
I dont think its a sign of a huge problem since "The Tick" has been around since the 15 model year and yet they havent gotten ridden of the tick. Also the Mustang is still the top selling muscle car. I have also read that Car and Driver and US News has said that its still the more reliable muscle car for what its worth.
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Condor1970

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I would be interested to see what’s going on with these genIII Coyote engines. At first I thought everyone was blowing this bbq tick thing out of proportion. But I’ve seen a lot of failures. Hard to say if the tick is a sign of the problem or just a coincidence. Either way it’s weird.
I will say that it seems no matter what oil I use, the tick is as pervasive as a bad Plantars wart. It just won't go away. That said, I have inspected my oil thoroughly, and the filters. I haven't found anything yet to indicate a problem. Just a lot of noise.

I may just say to heck with the PUP 5w30, and go back to Mobil 1 regular synthetic 5w30, since it has one of the highest shear strengths under normal and spirited driving conditions up to 230F oil temperature.
 

accel

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Yep that's the stuff. After a few days of this stuff:

-Engine sounds quieter
-I feel less vibration/resonance (my exhaust drone has reduced by at least 50%)
-Engine response is smoother
-Throttle response and overall power seems improved
-Response seems better when engine is cold and still warming up

Not sure why I would feel more power? But it seems to pull harder. But anyway - regardless... Point is my engine feels overall better because of it. I'm now convinced that it works and will probably use it every oil change if I don't decide to switch to the Cera Tec.

NOW I am SURE someone is going to respond to this quickly and telling me it's snake oil and I'm stupid, don't mess with that stuff yada yada yada. Just sharing my experience.
But you did not have a tick firstplace, right?
 

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I dont think its a sign of a huge problem since "The Tick" has been around since the 15 model year and yet they havent gotten ridden of the tick.
Actually the BBQ tick has been around since the Gen1 Coyote in model year 2011.
 

accel

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I poured the whole bottle in when the engine was already warm. Give it a good shake and then pour it all in.

Now I have a 2015 GT so mine only requires 8 quarts of oil. I had changed my oil about 500 miles prior to putting the Liqui Moly Mos2 additive in. I noticed a small difference the first day and a larger difference the 2nd and 3rd day. Put it in and tell me if you don't notice any difference.
There's YouTube channel where the guy staged liqui moly mos2 and ceratec tests on lawn mower engines.

ceratec had immediate impact such as less friction and fuel economy.

mos2 did not have any noticeable immediate impact. the guy questioned if mos2 impact was supposed to be immediate, or, over some time, but since product description did not contain anything about timing, just concluded ceratec was better product.
 

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GT Pony

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Yep that's the stuff. After a few days of this stuff:

-Engine sounds quieter
-I feel less vibration/resonance (my exhaust drone has reduced by at least 50%)
-Engine response is smoother
-Throttle response and overall power seems improved
-Response seems better when engine is cold and still warming up

Not sure why I would feel more power? But it seems to pull harder. But anyway - regardless...
It's a friction modifier ... so the engine now has less internal friction which gives more HP at the rear wheels, which you can feel.
 

accel

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UPDATE: Got my car back after they did some diagnostics for a few days. They know the tick is there. They compared it to another brand new GT on the lot. It also has this tick. They basically chalked it up to what Ford says is a normal noise. The mechanic told me to just go ahead and drive it for now. If it gets noticeably worse, then bring it back in. So, that's what I'll do, for now. My car no longer ticks when it's warm and idling, but does come back when revving in neutral with no load. When there's load on the engine, it seems to go away.

Also, after a week of using half bottle of Ceratec, the engine runs just fine, but the tick has also returned, and is almost as noticeable as before.
I am prepared for my next oil change project

a) castrol edge titanium 5w20. drive several days and see what the change would be. if tick stays,

b) liqui moly mos2. drive for several days.

if no improvement, I'll just put back mc 5w20 next oil change.
 

markbehr

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It's a friction modifier ... so the engine now has less internal friction which gives more HP at the rear wheels, which you can feel.
So do you think it is safe to use before the car is broken in?
 

GT Pony

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So do you think it is safe to use before the car is broken in?
I read where you planned on changing the oil at 1000 miles. If so, I would wait to add a friction modifier. If you drive your car somewhat spirited, I'd say it would be broke in pretty well at 2500~3000 miles. Maybe change the oil at 1000, and again at 3000 and then add the friction modifier.
 

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markbehr

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I read where you planned on changing the oil at 1000 miles. If so, I would wait to add a friction modifier. If you drive your car somewhat spirited, I'd say it would be broke in pretty well at 2500~3000 miles. Maybe change the oil at 1000, and again at 3000 and then add the friction modifier.
I plan on driving somewhat spirited at 1000 miles. ill probably wont even redline it. As of right now ive kept the car below 3000 rpms. What oil do you recommend?
 

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I plan on driving somewhat spirited at 1000 miles. ill probably wont even redline it. As of right now ive kept the car below 3000 rpms. What oil do you recommend?
It won't hurt it to kiss 4000~4500 RPM in short bursts a few times before 1000 miles - it's actually good for break-in IMO. I drove my 2015 pretty hard starting at around 700 miles, but never over 5000 RPM. I changed oil at 2200 miles (went with Motorcraft 5W-30 syn-blend again), then another change at 4100 miles and went with Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 full synthetic since I considered it broken in well by that time. My engine never ticked, but after changing to Valvoline 5W-30 the valve train sounded a bit more quiet than with the M/C 5W-20.
 

Condor1970

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It won't hurt it to kiss 4000~4500 RPM in short bursts a few times before 1000 miles - it's actually good for break-in IMO. I drove my 2015 pretty hard starting at around 700 miles, but never over 5000 RPM. I changed oil at 2200 miles (went with Motorcraft 5W-30 syn-blend again), then another change at 4100 miles and went with Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 full synthetic since I considered it broken in well by that time. My engine never ticked, but after changing to Valvoline 5W-30 the valve train sounded a bit more quiet than with the M/C 5W-20.
I can't help but wonder if I shuoldn't just switch back to Mobil 1 5w30 regular synthetic (Level 3) along with a splash of Ceratec if needed. Only because it has a 117,000psi shear strength at 230F. I change my oil religiously every 5,000 miles, so why would I really need these new long life oils with lower shear strength protection?
 

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I will say that it seems no matter what oil I use, the tick is as pervasive as a bad Plantars wart. It just won't go away. That said, I have inspected my oil thoroughly, and the filters. I haven't found anything yet to indicate a problem. Just a lot of noise.

I may just say to heck with the PUP 5w30, and go back to Mobil 1 regular synthetic 5w30, since it has one of the highest shear strengths under normal and spirited driving conditions up to 230F oil temperature.
Time to try Castrol SAE 0W-20
Or
Shell Rotella T-6 0W-40

The magic slick stuff isn’t long term.
 

markbehr

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It won't hurt it to kiss 4000~4500 RPM in short bursts a few times before 1000 miles - it's actually good for break-in IMO. I drove my 2015 pretty hard starting at around 700 miles, but never over 5000 RPM. I changed oil at 2200 miles (went with Motorcraft 5W-30 syn-blend again), then another change at 4100 miles and went with Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 full synthetic since I considered it broken in well by that time. My engine never ticked, but after changing to Valvoline 5W-30 the valve train sounded a bit more quiet than with the M/C 5W-20.
I thought about taking it up to 4000 rpms once in a while. after i hit 500-600 miles.
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