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BBQ Tick After Oil Change...

Rolls

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It is possible that old oil simply blocks up the clearances with sludge which is why the noise returns after fresh oil is put in. I doubt anyone will try this put I bet putting used 20-50 oil would stop the tick (and likely also kill the motor for other reasons).

I've had 300,000km engines that became noisy after flushing the oil.
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It is possible that old oil simply blocks up the clearances with sludge which is why the noise returns after fresh oil is put in. I doubt anyone will try this put I bet putting used 20-50 oil would stop the tick (and likely also kill the motor for other reasons).

I've had 300,000km engines that became noisy after flushing the oil.

Thats a strange comment. 5w 30 has already been proven to stop the tick.
 

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Condor1970

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Thats a strange comment. 5w 30 has already been proven to stop the tick.
5w30 does not stop the typewriter tick. I switched, and if anything it made the tick a little louder. The ONLY thing that has shown to truly work at stopping the tick, is Ceratec... and a few other high end additives.
 

Dfeeds

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Thats a strange comment. 5w 30 has already been proven to stop the tick.
Proven.... where? Several of us here have found going from 5w30 to 5w20 eliminated the tick. One aspect of old oil not ticking is that oil sheers a bit with age. It could very well be that some engines don't tick with the less viscous oil and as soon as the oil is changed, the tick comes back because the viscosity is higher in fresh oil, with everything else being equal. That fits what the dealership was telling that gt350 owner.
 

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Proven.... where? Several of us here have found going from 5w30 to 5w20 eliminated the tick. One aspect of old oil not ticking is that oil sheers a bit with age. It could very well be that some engines don't tick with the less viscous oil and as soon as the oil is changed, the tick comes back because the viscosity is higher in fresh oil, with everything else being equal. That fits what the dealership was telling that gt350 owner.
Thing is, if the ticking is a strong function of viscosity, then these engines should tick like mad during a cold start-up because all oil is much thicker when cold then when hot. Even Ford's SSM says the typewriter tick (BBQ tick) typically doesnt start until the oil is above 150F (ie, thinned out).
 

Condor1970

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Thing is, if the ticking is a strong function of viscosity, then these engines should tick like mad during a cold start-up because all oil is much thicker when cold then when hot. Even Ford's SSM says the typewriter tick (BBQ tick) typically doesnt start until the oil is above 150F (ie, thinned out).
Wanna know something funny? My tick does not make noise on a cold start, but starts making noise when rpms come down and temp rises slightly. It ticks during warmup, then goes away when hot. So, what gives?

The predominant factor, at least with mine, seems to be oil pressure. When cold starting, the pressure is up around 40psi, so no noise. As soon as oil starts warming and RPM drops, the tick starts as pressure drops below 30psi on warmup. Once fully hot, it starts going away as it gets really thin at normal operating temp.
 

Dfeeds

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Thing is, if the ticking is a strong function of viscosity, then these engines should tick like mad during a cold start-up because all oil is much thicker when cold then when hot. Even Ford's SSM says the typewriter tick (BBQ tick) typically doesnt start until the oil is above 150F (ie, thinned out).
The oil isn't the only thing that changes with heat. The parts will go through thermal expansion; tightening up any gap as the parts expand.
 

Condor1970

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The oil isn't the only thing that changes with heat. The parts will go through thermal expansion; tightening up any gap as the parts expand.
Yep...Or even open up, if things like the block grows faster and further than the pistons. All kinds of things are going on during warmup.
 

Dfeeds

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Yep...Or even open up, if things like the block grows faster and further than the pistons. All kinds of things are going on during warmup.
Right. It's why the first gen had issues with the iron sleeves cracking. It makes me extremely curious about the PTWA liner thermal coefficient, the silicon % in the pistons, how the squirters (that were removed in the gen 2?) impact the thermal expansion rate of the piston, etc. I'm also equally as sad how close to impossible finding any of this information is. But that's all a topic for a different thread :wink:
 

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Right. It's why the first gen had issues with the iron sleeves cracking. It makes me extremely curious about the PTWA liner thermal coefficient, the silicon % in the pistons, how the squirters (that were removed in the gen 2?) impact the thermal expansion rate of the piston, etc. I'm also equally as sad how close to impossible finding any of this information is. But that's all a topic for a different thread :wink:
Gen2 Coyotes have the piston oil squirters. Does the Gen3?
 

Condor1970

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Gen2 Coyotes have the piston oil squirters. Does the Gen3?
I "heard" they got rid of the squirters. Can't remember who told me. Something about too much oil on the cylinder walls causing carbon buildup as some gets past the rings. Not totally sure though.
 
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Dfeeds

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Gen2 Coyotes have the piston oil squirters. Does the Gen3?
The gen 3 does have them. What year did they remove the squirters, then? Was it mid cycle for the 1st gen?
 

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Sounds like "Piston Slap" to me......kinda comes with the territory with "Forged Piston" rebuilds.....don't ask how I know!!:frown:

Really doesn't hurt anything if that's what it is...just annoying!!:)
 

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