How thick is the metal backing plate inside the hood structure where a Nutsert would have to go? Plus, how you going to drill out the snapped off stud perfectly with causing more chaos. Only way I'd ever attempt that kind of fix would by removing the hood so it could be worked on easier...
Yeah, the correct fix isn't to weld the steel hinge to the aluminum hood skin. I only answered the question of the hinge and stud where steel or aluminum. They are steel.
I don't think a "nut sert" will work ... doesn't look like enough meat on the hood side to install on like they are...
I just measured the hood hinge studs on my 2015 with a caliper and they are clearly 8 mm diameter. So the 2018+ Mustangs have the 6 mm studs, and that's why the torque spec is lower for them as shown in post #33. I still wouldn't torque to 17 ft-lbs specified for the 2015-2017 models, but...
In case anyone missed post #33, the torque specs for the hood nuts is lower for the 2018+ Mustangs. I believe Ford used smaller studs in the 2018+ Mustangs.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-disaster-snapped-hood-bolt.104242/post-2255728
Some Coyotes, regardless of the generation (the latest SSM 52334 shown above covers years 2011-2024), don't exhibit the ticking. So that also aligns with the ticking being caused by a parts tolerance stack-up.
I think it's more related to the friction level of the oil, but the viscosity can also play a role in terms of "cushioning" moving parts. That's why adding as little as 150 mL of Ceratec (a friction modifier) makes the ticking go away almost instantly due to the change in the friction level...
True, how hard would it be to say in the SSM what the cause was. My theory is it's caused by some big rod end side clearances being slightly out of spec on some engines. If it was something like that and they said so, it would look bad and some people would probably be upset to hear something...