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BBQ tick and oil change oil starvation

accel

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I cannot help but keep thinking about connection between oil change and bbq tick. I know there are users who had tick even before the change (me included), but still there's plenty of those who get it right after the oil change.

A lot of talks regarding different kinds of oil but with no outcome.

So what if coyote is very sensitive to temporary oil starvation that happens every oil change.

Some coyote engines are more under danger than others depending on actual tolerances, but every oil change is a challenge.

If you drain oil properly, how much time does it require the pump to refill the system completely upon first engine startup right after the change? That's with tick happening in the end of oil passage - cyl 3 and 4 at passenger side.

I was reading liqui moly mos2 oil additive description and found this :

"MoS2 was originally developed to maintain lubrication in piston-driven aircraft engines in the event of a loss in oil pressure and to prevent complete engine seizure."

So I wonder if adding that oil additive shortly before oil change might minimize or eliminate the risk of damage?
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accel

accel

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Another quote from liqui moly website:

"MoS2 oil additive is specially formulated to significantly extend the life of your engine (especially if it ever suffers a momentary loss in oil pressure)".

I am not a big fan of oil additives, but it really sounds like it does not hurt to add it several hundred miles before the oil change, then it might help to protect during engine start along with oil filter prefill.
 

GT Pony

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If you drain oil properly, how much time does it require the pump to refill the system completely upon first engine startup right after the change?
I've changed oil twice. Both times with the front wheels on 6" wood blocks, so the front end is up off the ground a bit. It's perfect for draining the pan with the drain bolt on the back side. I let the oil drain ~2 hours (from the pan and filter mount with filter removed) while things cool off and I do a bunch of other checks or work. I pre-fill the oil filter as much as possible.

It takes ~3 seconds on initial start-up to see "Normal" oil pressure on the dash. I feel there is no oil starvation going on with the way I do an oil change. No more than millions of other engines see with an oil and filter change. My engine has been pretty quiet since the day I bought the car, and sounds even a little quieter with that 5W-30 I'm now running.
 
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accel

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I've changed oil twice. Both times with the front wheels on 6" wood blocks, so the front end is up off the ground a bit. It's perfect for draining the pan with the drain bolt on the back side. I let the oil drain ~2 hours (from the pan and filter mount with filter removed) while things cool off and I do a bunch of other checks or work. I pre-fill the oil filter as much as possible.

It takes ~3 seconds on initial start-up to see "Normal" oil pressure on the dash. I feel there is no oil starvation going on with the way I do an oil change. No more than millions of other engines see with an oil and filter change. My engine has been pretty quiet since the day I bought the car, and sounds even a little quieter with that 5W-30 I'm now running.

oil pressure - that means oil reached pressure sensor.

does not mean newvoil is everywhere yet.
 

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GT Pony

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oil pressure - that means oil reached pressure sensor.

does not mean newvoil is everywhere yet.
True ... but keep in mind the oil is forced through the oiling system by a positive displacement oil pump. Millions of engines get started up with bone dry oil filters, and I don't see dead cars all over the place. There should be enough oil film left over on all parts to withstand no oil for a few seconds with no damage caused.
 
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accel

accel

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On my auto 18 right after oil change (3100 miles) I primed it before I started it. You hold brake and accelerator all the way to the floor. The motor will turn over, but not fire up until you take foot off accelerator.
not sure every (if any) dealer actually does it.

i was just trying to correlate one fact that is often associated with tick start, possible weakness of the engine and ways to avoid it.
your hint is also great one.
 

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As said before, some guys get the BBQ tick before the first oil change is ever done. Trying to find the root cause of the BBQ tick is like capturing a Bigfoot to show proof that those are what made those big footprints in the mud.
 
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accel

accel

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True ... but keep in mind the oil is forced through the oiling system by a positive displacement oil pump. Millions of engines get started up with bone dry oil filters, and I don't see dead cars all over the place. There should be enough oil film left over on all parts to withstand no oil for a few seconds with no damage caused.
i know, but coyote seems to be very sensitive to this.

and right after the start oil is also pushing air through empty oil passages. so depending on implementation it might even push old oil out of its place for short period of time.
 
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i know, but coyote seems to be very sensitive to this.

and right after the start oil is also pushing air through empty oil passages.
Just like in millions of other engines getting oil changes - most with bone dry new oil filters on initial start-up.

Even if an engine is cranked over with the gas pedal to the floor to disable the fuel injection, the parts are still moving against each other. The only way to have complete oil everywhere before the engine even moves is with a pressurized "pre-oiler" on the car.
 

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I first noticed the tick at around 3000 miles, while still running the original oil and filter. First oil change, Mobile 1, 5w-30, was at 4500 miles. I pre-filled the Purolator Boss filter also btw. No real change in ticking. Got tired of the ticking and added Ceratec oil additive. No more ticking.
 

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Mine started before my first oil change. I don't buy the whole pre-fill the oil filter argument. I've been doing oil changes on all my vehicles for 30 years. Never had a problem.

I can assure you, the origin of the "tick" in my car had absolutely nothing to do with bad oil quality or improperly mounted filters.
 
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accel

accel

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Mine started before my first oil change. I don't buy the whole pre-fill the oil filter argument. I've been doing oil changes on all my vehicles for 30 years. Never had a problem.

I can assure you, the origin of the "tick" in my car had absolutely nothing to do with bad oil quality or improperly mounted filters.
This thread is not about oil quality or bad filter. It is possibility of tick to be a result of temporary engine oil starvation during oil change.
 
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accel

accel

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The only way to have complete oil everywhere before the engine even moves is with a pressurized "pre-oiler" on the car.
I wonder how they foll engine with oil initially at the factory.
 

Condor1970

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This thread is not about oil quality or bad filter. It is possibility of tick to be a result of temporary engine oil starvation during oil change.
I know that. The problem is, the tick does exist with some of the earlier 5.0L engines, but is most present with the new version. However, the block design and oil passages of this new version is basically identical. The only real change is the PTWA cylinders, and additional DI system. The oil system however, is the same. If this number of engine ticks was a result of oil starvation, it would have been just as prevalent in the original motors. My bet is timing issues creating knock that eventually causes damage, or possibly bad bearings from the get go.
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