Post bbq tick users. WHICH OIL?

[Condor1970]

I'm currently running PUP 5w30, and made no difference in that incessant tick I have. However, the tick did subside a lot when I added a small amount of Ceratec.

I'm also thinking of trying QSUD 5w20, since it apparently has a very high shear strength. I can always add 50ml of Ceratec if I want a little more more lubricity.

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[TheLion]

I used Valvoline's new formula in my Ecoboost and it worked quite well. Back then however I was searching for oils that had both high resistance to shear AND resisted knock given it was a high strung TDI engine. However knock resistant oils could possibly benefit NA engines as well, however I don't believe there's much benefit if you run a catch can in a NA V8 like the 5.0. There's almost no oil ingestion at that point and the 11:1 compression ratio produces far less pressure than a 21~25 PSI boosted 2.3L per cylinder and consequently less heat per cylinder. But it's a good oil none the less.

That's why I wondered how Mobil 1 would perform with it's current formula, their old formula certainly was sub-par from those results, but they have always been popular with high powered cars and their HTHS viscosity was among best of the Group III+ dino oils. However it can't compare to the true synthetics like PAO's and Esters, so I'm going to give RedLine a try due to it's extremely good shear properties and HTHS viscosity which rivals many off the shelf 30 weight oils all while technically still being a 5W-20 that meets OE specs. I don't think you can do better than RedLine or Driven 5W-20's unless you move up to an off-the-shelf 5W-30 or 0W-30.

 

[TheLion]

I am not sure RedLine is actually certified by ford. It does not even have api logo on it. I think its RedLine beliefs that they meed ford spec and api sn or whatever. Not saying redline is bad though.

I see, I took that as them being API certified. Well, what ever the case, according to their data, just like AMSOIL or Driven, we know from actual testing these PAO and Ester based oils all outperform anything in the off-the-shelf category and at least meet the general requirements of their viscosity grades according to the ASTM testing.

For a car out of warranty it doesn't matter. For a car under warranty it sort of matters in that it's a 5W-20 multi-grade and has met all of the specs necessary for API 5W-20 according to their site. Same thing with AMSOIL Signature Series, they do not technically have certs, but they meet the specs, that would be ok with me since we know the oil itself is not going to cause any issues.

Ford and every other OE would say you shouldn't use TriboTEX, CeraTec or Achoil...despite teh fact that those substantially reduce friction losses and wear as well as cure the BBQ tick they resort to replacing short blocks to fix and then end up with another ticking block half the time anyway. I will admit there are times it makes perfect sense to step outside of OE specs or requirements, but it should always be done with a lot of caution and care to make sure what your doing isn't going to have substantial negative and unintended consequences.

 

[accel]

I see, I took that as them being API certified. Well, what ever the case, according to their data, just like AMSOIL or Driven, we know from actual testing these PAO and Ester based oils all outperform anything in the off-the-shelf category and at least meet the general requirements of their viscosity grades according to the ASTM testing.

For a car out of warranty it doesn't matter. For a car under warranty it sort of matters in that it's a 5W-20 multi-grade and has met all of the specs necessary for API 5W-20 according to their site. Same thing with AMSOIL Signature Series, they do not technically have certs, but they meet the specs, that would be ok with me since we know the oil itself is not going to cause any issues.

Ford and every other OE would say you shouldn't use TriboTEX, CeraTec or Achoil...despite teh fact that those substantially reduce friction losses and wear as well as cure the BBQ tick they resort to replacing short blocks to fix and then end up with another ticking block half the time anyway. I will admit there are times it makes perfect sense to step outside of OE specs or requirements, but it should always be done with a lot of caution and care to make sure what your doing isn't going to have substantial negative and unintended consequences.

Interesting that insoluble particle friction modifiers like ceratec and xl17 (carbon black) instantaneously fix the tick.

But mos2 does not.

 

[barron64]

Interesting that insoluble particle friction modifiers like ceratec and xl17 (carbon black) instantaneously fix the tick.

But mos2 does not.

I have the same question... How does 350mls, dissolved into nearly 9500ml’s cure the tick so quickly and effectively?

 

[gmupatriot]

I have the same question... How does 350mls, dissolved into nearly 9500ml’s cure the tick so quickly and effectively?

I changed the oil on my GT at 17,xxx miles with PUP 5W-20 and added a full bottle of CeraTec and I do not have the ticking anymore. I have tried to listen to it at cold starts, after its warmed up and no ticking whatsoever. I would say it started to work right away but really showed itself working after 400-500 miles of driving. No idea how or why it works so quickly but it did for my car.

 

[barron64]

I changed the oil on my GT at 17,xxx miles with PUP 5W-20 and added a full bottle of CeraTec and I do not have the ticking anymore. I have tried to listen to it at cold starts, after its warmed up and no ticking whatsoever. I would say it started to work right away but really showed itself working after 400-500 miles of driving. No idea how or why it works so quickly but it did for my car.

I wonder if any power train engineers from Ford ever check these forums? They might learn something. All these engines being torn down and or replaced for the “tick” while a small amount of additive makes it go away. Question still remains.... What does the additive do to quiet the tick?

 

[accel]

I have the same question... How does 350mls, dissolved into nearly 9500ml’s cure the tick so quickly and effectively?

I can only guess that since the additive contains particles they just cushion a couple of parts that get in contact with each other and cause intermittent tick. Both ceratec and xl17 aka carbon black contain non metal particles.

mos2 also contains insoluble particles, but those are metal particles and maybe that's why these do not cushion anything.

I tried ceratec and it's great. The scary part is - used oil looks scary. So I would not suggest its use if you are under warranty and do your oil changes with the dealer. Even oil recycling center refused to take my used oil with ceratec.

Carbon black powder worked for someone on the forum and for a lot of mustang/f150 owners while xl17 was still available, but it's also scary to use it as it was part of discontinued xl17 additive. So maybe there was reason for the additive to be discontinued.

 

[NastyPumpkin]

I can only guess that since the additive contains particles they just cushion a couple of parts that get in contact with each other and cause intermittent tick. Both ceratec and xl17 aka carbon black contain non metal particles.

mos2 also contains insoluble particles, but those are metal particles and maybe that's why these do not cushion anything.

I tried ceratec and it's great. The scary part is - used oil looks scary. So I would not suggest its use if you are under warranty and do your oil changes with the dealer. Even oil recycling center refused to take my used oil with ceratec.

Carbon black powder worked for someone on the forum and for a lot of mustang/f150 owners while xl17 was still available, but it's also scary to use it as it was part of discontinued xl17 additive. So maybe there was reason for the additive to be discontinued.

I was told by Ford Engineering that XL17 had a short shelf life and that is why it was discontinued.

 

[Condor1970]

I was told by Ford Engineering that XL17 had a short shelf life and that is why it was discontinued.

That doesn't sound right. How can carbon powder have a short shelf life? It's been on Earth for billions of years.

 

[NastyPumpkin]

That doesn't sound right. How can carbon powder have a short shelf life? It's been on Earth for billions of years.

It might have been something else other than the carbon in XL17 that went bad.

 

[careature]

That doesn't sound right. How can carbon powder have a short shelf life? It's been on Earth for billions of years.

I could be just like in PUP - carbon would stick to container

 

[careature]

It might have been something else other than the carbon in XL17 that went bad.

I think the pdf with contents of xl-17 was posted here awhile ago. It was just carbon black in some oil.

 

[kluke15]

And if you didn't care about warranty, RedLine's 0W-20 has some really good properties as well that still best every 5W-20 out there at high temp performance including AMSOIL's 5W-20. 9.1 CSt @ 100C, 48 CSt @ 40C, 2.9 CSt at 150C (HTHS), 9 NOACK, CCS Viscosity 5500 @ -35. It's another option. You give up just a tad HTHS with 0W-20, but your still meeting the 30 weight GF-5 HTHS spec with a 20 weight oil....these would be great oils for hot climates like texas, florida etc., but should still work quite well in colder climates like the lower great lakes regions. Once you get up north further towards Canada and average temps are in the -10's and -20's in winter you might see better overall performance with other oils due to an emphasis on low temp. But even AMSOIL's blends are not perfect and have a bias in operating range.

And if you didn't care about warranty, RedLine's 0W-20 has some really good properties as well that still best every 5W-20 out there at high temp performance including AMSOIL's 5W-20. 9.1 CSt @ 100C, 48 CSt @ 40C, 2.9 CSt at 150C (HTHS), 9 NOACK, CCS Viscosity 5500 @ -35. It's another option. You give up just a tad HTHS with 0W-20, but your still meeting the 30 weight GF-5 HTHS spec with a 20 weight oil....these would be great oils for hot climates like texas, florida etc., but should still work quite well in colder climates like the lower great lakes regions. Once you get up north further towards Canada and average temps are in the -10's and -20's in winter you might see better overall performance with other oils due to an emphasis on low temp. But even AMSOIL's blends are not perfect and have a bias in operating range.

was trying to PM you but wouldnt let me. i was hoping you could pm me i was curious about your experience so far with tribotex, i was one of the ones who tried ceratec but just looking for some more info/opinions

 

[NastyPumpkin]

I could be just like in PUP - carbon would stick to container

Yes, you are correct. After time the carbon would stick to the bottom and sides of the bottle and become less effective. Thats why XL17 was discontinued. (That is the answer I recevied from a Ford engineer this morning.)

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