Post bbq tick users. WHICH OIL?

[careature]

Notice in that UOA collection that Motorcraft and Mobil 1 seem to shear down in viscosity more than the other brands. That's why I went with Valvoline Advanced 5W-30.

Also, I looked into the 5qt jugs of Valvoline and saw absolutely no sediments on the bottom. Valvoline Advanced has some moly in it too, and a high HTHS and low Noack. It's also SN dexos1, Gen2. I researched 5W-30 oils a lot, and Valvoline was the best overall package IMO.

I went with RedLine oil as it has 0% shear according to collection. But neither 5w30 nor 5w20 RL worked. And those are expensive oils to drain next day.

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[GT Pony]

Here they say it is not necessary to shake the jug:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-q-a/

Will have to shake the bottle in those oil jugs that settle out additives like that. Best to shake vigorously when the jug is 1/2 full.

 

[GT Pony]

I went with RedLine oil as it has 0% shear according to collection. But neither 5w30 nor 5w20 RL worked. And those are expensive oils to drain next day.

I think it's also a strong function of the additives formulation that makes the difference in ticking level or not. That's why something like the Cera Tec additive makes an almost instant difference.

Like I mentioned in another thread, the valve train sounds quieter on my GT with the Valvoline full synthetic 5W-30 then it did with the Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend. I never had any BBQ ticking, but my engine sounds even quieter on the Valvoline.

 

[careature]

@OneFordGT so after shaking it vigorously- did you get rid of the spot?

 

[careature]

Also, I looked into the 5qt jugs of Valvoline and saw absolutely no sediments on the bottom.

They are just smart and match color of sediments with color of the jug

 

[OneFordGT]

@OneFordGT so after shaking it vigorously- did you get rid of the spot?

I usually shake oil jugs a little bit before I fill my engines thinking “just in case this helps” and I even did it with these before I opened the Pens UP. The sediment took longer to disolve than I thought it would, I had to shake the jugs for a solid 1-2 minutes each before all of the additives/ sediment was dissolved. From now on I’m going to shake all my oil and inspect the insides of the container before I top off my engine, diff, and transmission. I’m starting to wonder if this is what happened when I switched my diff and transmission to BG Oil because I didn’t notice a difference with that oil but everyone else claims it made a big difference.

 

[Mountain376]

I've spent some time and money on a couple of experiments. Myself got more questions than answers. Here's the sequence of what I did in 3 days and several dozen miles. New short block, no tick, about 100 miles on oil.

Drained MC 5W20 and replaced it with group V synthetic- Red Line 5w30. New MC filter.

What do you think would happen?

I started hearing tick again. Initially occasional it was becoming more and more frequent.

I did not wait long and replaced 5w30 with Red Line 5w20. Did not replace the filter this time. Tick did not go away and in a day came back to almost before short block replacement level/scenarios.

I drain Red Line oil and refill with Pennzoil Ultra platinum 5w20. New filter. Tick is gone.

Guess what... I'll stick with Ultra Platinum 5w20 for as long as I can.

P.S. And before sb replacement life was:

Tick noticed very soon after new car purchase. Did not pay much attention as I did not think that was engine. Drove on MC 5w20 until 6 kmiles replaced with Mobil 1 5w20 EP, - no change, ticking as usual.

Then I realized I had famous bbq tick and short block was replaced.

Interesting as Pennzoil UP has less moly, zinc and phosphate than the Redline and Mobil 1. Take a look at the VOA's out there. KV's are also not that far apart.

I wonder if you were to fill the engine, again, with the Redline or Mobil 1 if the noise would be gone or would come back?

 

[alanpv]

Interesting as Pennzoil UP has less moly, zinc and phosphate than the Redline and Mobil 1. Take a look at the VOA's out there. KV's are also not that far apart.

I wonder if you were to fill the engine, again, with the Redline or Mobil 1 if the noise would be gone or would come back?

Hm, PUP has lower viscosities at all temps than both M1 EP and Redline. Maybe the thinness of the oil has a more positive effect on engine tick than the additive composition?

 

[BmacIL]

Hm, PUP has lower viscosities at all temps than both M1 EP and Redline. Maybe the thinness of the oil has a more positive effect on engine tick than the additive composition?

I'd honestly be a heck of a lot more worried about the ability of the oil to lubricate under high load & temp than what it does at cold/warm (not hot) idle.

 

[Condor1970]

Gentlemen, I found a chart somewhere of an analysis done on PUP. It had slightly less Moly, and Zinc than Mobil 1 EP as a comparison.

However, It had about 215ppm of Boron, and tons of calcium and phosphorous.

The 5w30 also had a virgin viscosity of about 10, and maintained it slightly longer throughout it's change interval than Mobil 1 EP.

I think they ceded some use of ZDDP and decided to go with some sort of Boron additive for lubricity. Kind of like Ceratec or Archoil additives.

https://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-car-care/61660-results-mobil-1-ep-v-pennzoil-ultra.html

 

[GregO]

I’ll mention it again;
Castrol patented FST “Titianum” isn’t a marketing scheme. After being forced to lower the anti-wear additives for emission longevity they came up with a solution.
BP/Amoco/Castrol own this patent and no one else can use their titanium anti-wear additive package.

I use their professional 0W-20 in more than a few of my vehicles. Yes I’ve done a few Blackstones at 8,000 / 10,000 mile OCI.

I sleep well at night knowing what’s in my oil pans.

 

[careature]

Notice in that UOA collection that Motorcraft and Mobil 1 seem to shear down in viscosity more than the other brands. That's why I went with Valvoline Advanced 5W-30.

Also, I looked into the 5qt jugs of Valvoline and saw absolutely no sediments on the bottom. Valvoline Advanced has some moly in it too, and a high HTHS and low Noack. It's also SN dexos1, Gen2. I researched 5W-30 oils a lot, and Valvoline was the best overall package IMO.

Interesting, that in two out of 3 cases MC 5w20 in the collection above is initial (factory) engine's oil based on car's mileage. And it looses viscosity from 8.5 to 7.3, which is a lot. But initial viscosity is asumed as 8.5 and (i think) is based on off the shelf oil bottle. How would they get a sample of unused factory oil?

One other case of mc 5w20 is not of the initial (factory) oil based on car's mileage.And it does not loose viscosity all that much. Still above 8.

SO. What if factory oil is not really losing viscosity drastically. What if it is lower viscosity to begin with? Like 7.5?

P.S. Which perfectly aligns with my theory of first oil change being an issue because of thicker oil for some engines <= 17

 

[OneFordGT]

I’ll mention it again;
Castrol patented FST “Titianum” isn’t a marketing scheme. After being forced to lower the anti-wear additives for emission longevity they came up with a solution.
BP/Amoco/Castrol own this patent and no one else can use their titanium anti-wear additive package.

I use their professional 0W-20 in more than a few of my vehicles. Yes I’ve done a few Blackstones at 8,000 / 10,000 mile OCI.

I sleep well at night knowing what’s in my oil pans.

Not calling you out, i'd like to see your UOA data because i'm interested in how it did.

 

[careature]

I’ll mention it again;
Castrol patented FST “Titianum” isn’t a marketing scheme. After being forced to lower the anti-wear additives for emission longevity they came up with a solution.
BP/Amoco/Castrol own this patent and no one else can use their titanium anti-wear additive package.

I use their professional 0W-20 in more than a few of my vehicles. Yes I’ve done a few Blackstones at 8,000 / 10,000 mile OCI.

I sleep well at night knowing what’s in my oil pans.

Here on shelves we have 0w20 non professional edge how is it different?

 

[Condor1970]

So, what the heck is Titanium supposed to do? I wasn't aware it had any lubrication properties, even in colloidal form. It is a very strong metal though, but not very hard.

Oh, I wanted to repost the link to my other find, but I did find that analysis showing that PUP 5w30 had lots of Boron, but less ZDDP than Mobil 1. Maybe they went that route, like Ceratec or Archoil using Boron instead.

https://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-car-care/61660-results-mobil-1-ep-v-pennzoil-ultra.html

Not sure how much of a big deal that is, but seems interesting.

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