Post bbq tick users. WHICH OIL?

[careature]

interesting, mc 5/20 made my tick louder and more consistent

Versus what oil?

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[stangman638]

Versus what oil?

amsoil and pp 5w20

 

[careature]

amsoil and pp 5w20

Amsoul is definitely thick per my research. Do not know much of pp.

So, give pup 5w20 a try. people report is makes tick go away in other threads. Maybe its low oil viscosity explains this.

 

[BmacIL]

Amsoul is definitely thick per my research. Do not know much of pp.

So, give pup 5w20 a try. people report is makes tick go away in other threads. Maybe its low oil viscosity explains this.

I've had overall great results with PUP. Both 5W20 and 5W30.

 

[Condor1970]

You know what I now think after above research?

Engines with the tick have tighter clearances than engines without the tick.

Right, not the other way around!

Factory oil is most likely is break-in thinner oil.

Thinner oil penetrates better, so no tick, plus it looses viscosity over time.

This is also why tick goes away for some if they just keep driving. Oil looses viscosity and penetrates better, so the tick goes away.

Then people make the oil change and new thicker oil does not penetrate well, thus metal to metal contact - engine is ticking immediately following oil change.

So those whose engine is ticking should look for high quality thin oil that would penetrate better.

Doesn't it explain all?

I don't think it's the thin oil that's preventing the tick. I made a comment on this in the other thread.

I say this, because my intermittent BBQ tick actually started at 800 miles with the original factory oil, BEFORE I did the first oil change at 1,000 miles. After changing the oil, it has slowly gotten worse, and changed from an idle tick to a more constant tick above 1,500rpm. After running the engine hard, the tick goes away, only to return after when the engine cools down.

I'm really starting to think this tick is the early stages of piston slap, and when guys switch to these heavier oils, it gets less noticeable as the cylinder walls heavy a heavy layer of lubrication and higher sheer strengths.

It would make more sense to me, that as carbon and other contaminants build up in the oil over a few thousand miles, those particulates are filling microscopic gaps on the cylinder walls to prevent ticking as the oil ages.

 

[careature]

I don't think it's the thin oil that's preventing the tick. I made a comment on this in the other thread.

I say this, because my intermittent BBQ tick actually started at 800 miles with the original factory oil, BEFORE I did the first oil change at 1,000 miles. After changing the oil, it has slowly gotten worse, and changed from an idle tick to a more constant tick above 1,500rpm. After running the engine hard, the tick goes away, only to return after when the engine cools down.

I'm really starting to think this tick is the early stages of piston slap, and when guys switch to these heavier oils, it gets less noticeable as the cylinder walls heavy a heavy layer of lubrication and higher sheer strengths.

It would make more sense to me, that as carbon and other contaminants build up in the oil over a few thousand miles, those particulates are filling microscopic gaps on the cylinder walls to prevent ticking as the oil ages.

Keep in mind, my car is '17 with new short block. Most of 11-17 have a tick after the oil change.

So I excluded all other variables - same engine, just different oils. No ticking to begin with MC 5w20, then I made it tick, then eliminated the tick with just different oils.

I absolutely am not saying 18+ tick for the same reason or, my experiments apply to 18+.

 

[Condor1970]

Keep in mind, my car is '17 with new short block. Most of 11-17 have a tick after the oil change.

So I excluded all other variables - same engine, just different oils. No ticking to begin with MC 5w20, then I made it tick, then eliminated the tick with just different oils.

I absolutely am not saying 18+ tick for the same reason or, my experiments apply to 18+.

Yes, and same reasoning as to why the ticking starts with fresh oil, is because you are flushing out all carbon and particulate contaminants. Those cylinder walls are now more exposed with clean oil and the noise returns. This is why that guy who added a teaspoon of pure carbon to his fresh oil change made the tick go away. This is why even Ford engineers in the field have added small bottles of Moly or Graphite to help with coating the cylinder walls and provide better lubrication of microscopic imperfections in the lining.

 

[careature]

Yes, and same reasoning as to why the ticking starts with fresh oil, is because you are flushing out all carbon and particulate contaminants. .

in your example it is contaminants AND oil viscosity reduction. How do you know which one is prevailing?

I excluded contamination and demoed that viscosity alone matters.

 

[Condor1970]

in your example it is contaminants AND oil viscosity reduction. How do you know which one is prevailing?

I excluded contamination and demoed that viscosity alone matters.

These modern oils hold there viscosity over their interval life so well, that the very slight change is almost negligible. I have seen almost ZERO cases on the forums where switching from a 5w30 back to 5w20 of the same oil brand made the ticking go away. If anything, attempting to do so actually made the ticking worse. Yet, quite a few have said that switching to the heavier 5w30 or even 5w40 made a notable difference in the level of noise.
About the only factor that has held true to making the ticking go away, is when a certain oil is used for a long enough period of time for carbon/contaminants to build up, and notably change the particulate levels. Yet, an oil like Mobil 1 or Penn UP has little to no change in viscosity over a 5,000 mi interval. These oils can perform quite well beyond 10,000 miles, so to think that a slight change from say 5w20 to 5w18 in 5,000 miles is the reason the noise stops makes no sense. The only real notable change in these oils over 5,000 miles is the increase in carbon/contaminant levels.

 

[careature]

These modern oils hold there viscosity over their interval life so well, that the very slight change is almost negligible.

False. And I guess I'm done listening to your arguments.

http://www.svtperformance.com/threads/official-gt-5-0-boss-302-uoa-thread.805918/

 

[Condor1970]

False. And I guess I'm done listening to your arguments.

http://www.svtperformance.com/threads/official-gt-5-0-boss-302-uoa-thread.805918/

,
You don't have to listen. You can do whatever you want. You can fill your engine with powdered carbon make up for all I care. Any resulting damage due to ignorance is on your shoulders, not mine.

The differences in viscosity between different brands is so large, you can't use that as an absolute measure. This ticking issue occurs with all kinds of oils. The most notable noise and problems occurs with oils of the lowest viscosity.
About the only oil that has seemingly had great success, is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. It has a virgin and used viscosity of over 10. That particular oil starts with a viscosity much higher than the thinner oils, and holds its viscosity best. In fact it was basically identical after 5,000 miles when used. Yet, all the cars that have continuous issues with engine tick have the lowest viscosity. Even Mobil 1 EP losing viscosity tends have a lot of engine tick.
I know this because I run Mobil 1 EP 5w20. So, after the number of miles I have on the car, my tick should be gone by now. Yet, it is getting even worse, as the rated loss of viscosity is far worse Pennzoil UP. If anything that whole chart reinforces my thoughts that lower viscosity oils are not good for this engine.

 

[OneFordGT]

I had an interesting observation while changing my oil tonight, you have to SHAKE your jug of oil vigorously before completely emptying it into your car. Why? The additives are settling and they really STICK to the bottom. I watched this video (see bottom of post) a few days ago and this guy discovered the settling in his 10W30 Penz Platinum, Pennzoil responded that this is normal and I believe them. So when I changed oil I looked into the first 5qt jug (5w30 Penz UP) when it was almost empty and discovered this, a LOT of additives! Also, I shook the jug for about 10-15 seconds before I opened it. I had an empty jug of Mobil 1 full syn 5W20 from when I changed my Focus’s a few days ago and I looked into the nearly empty jug to see additives stuck to the bottom of it as well. Am I the only one who didn’t know you had to vigorously shake your oil before pouring? Could this small amount of additives be the difference between BBQ Tick and no tick? I am happy to report I do not have BBQ Tick after this oil change. I’m not sure if the TriboTex is still “curing” it or maybe the Pup oil with ALL the additives are helping.. or both.

 

[careature]

I had an interesting observation while changing my oil tonight, you have to SHAKE your jug of oil vigorously before completely emptying it into your car. Why? The additives are settling and they really STICK to the bottom. I watched this video (see bottom of post) a few days ago and this guy discovered the settling in his 5W30 Pup, Pennzoil responded that this is normal and I believe them. So when I changed oil I looked into the first 5qt jug (also 5w30 Penz UP) when it was almost empty and discovered this, a LOT of additives! Also, I shook the jug for about 10-15 seconds before I opened it. I had an empty jug of Mobil 1 full syn 5W20 from when I changed my Focus’s a few days ago and I looked into the nearly empty jug to see additives stuck to the bottom of it as well. Am I the only one who didn’t know you had to vigorously shake your oil before pouring? Could this small amount of additives be the difference between BBQ Tick and no tick? I am happy to report I do not have BBQ Tick after this oil change. I’m not sure if the TriboTex is still “curing” it or maybe the Pup oil with ALL the additives are helping.. or both.

I saw it in the jug of my pup. I still have the jug. Will have to try to get it out and pour into the engine

Here they say it is not necessary to shake the jug:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-q-a/

 

[OneFordGT]

I saw it in the jug of my pup. I still have the jug. Will have to try to get it out and pour into the engine

That’s a good idea. When I started adding oil from the second jug I poured half into the first empty jug and the second jug had a lot of additives in the bottom of it too. So I shook the sh#$ out of it and then poured all the oil back into it, shook again and then went about adding the rest of the oil.

 

[GT Pony]

False. And I guess I'm done listening to your arguments.

http://www.svtperformance.com/threads/official-gt-5-0-boss-302-uoa-thread.805918/

Notice in that UOA collection that Motorcraft and Mobil 1 seem to shear down in viscosity more than the other brands. That's why I went with Valvoline Advanced 5W-30.

Also, I looked into the 5qt jugs of Valvoline and saw absolutely no sediments on the bottom. Valvoline Advanced has some moly in it too, and a high HTHS and low Noack. It's also SN dexos1, Gen2. I researched 5W-30 oils a lot, and Valvoline was the best overall package IMO.

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