Race Trailer Advice Needed, Please

[Holmes]

I use a in floor winch to pull the car in and then with the Etrack in the floor strap over the rear wheels to strap it in. This is a picture from when I was building the inside of my trailer.

For your cost, it seams the top of the market is past us, and pricing is getting more reasonable. I have seen a lot of trailers for sale on FB 24' ish in the 7 - 14 range for plain plywood interior to 35k for a full race package with AC, cabinets, generator cabinet. I bought mine for right under 20K before the market went crazy and built it out to suit my needs.

Thanks. Looks really good! I looked at a brand new InTech 24 yesterday. Really nice with cabinets, lighting, AC, extended ramp, and tons of extras. Dealer was asking $40K. I'd really like to get a nice configuration for under $30K. Going to pull my window sticker for the F150 and the owners manual and see what I have to work with there on the towing and capacity. It's was a loaded King Ranch F150, so I think it has a high end towing package. I've just not done much towing with it other than a small UHaul trailer. I'll check it out. Everyone here on the forum has given such great information! Thank you!

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[nbjeeptj]

Do you wench the car into your trailer or drive it in?

I use the winch to pull the car in.

 

[WoodburnGT]

That is a nice rig you have there! And thank you for the information. Do you drive the Mustang onto the trailer or do you have a wench? Any other tips or do's and don't for buying a trailer?
Buy new or used? What do you think my budget should be to get something nice?
THANK YOU!!!

I drive my GT into the trailer. I just cheat over to the right a bit…with the window down and the door cracked open I’m able to slide my skinny ass in and out. A bigger person might have a more difficult time. The 4’x4’ escape hatch doesn’t allow you to open the door fully, it just gives you more “room” to squeeze in and out. I paid $23,500 1 year ago for this all aluminum frame. I’d suggest a aluminum frame because a steel trailer will be much heavier. Plenty of nice used stuff on the market and if your budget is 30K, you can have a very nice set-up!

 

[TeeLew]

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...e-rope-and-wireless-remote-control-56258.html

or similar. No question.

 

[kz]

Or is that a bad idea to leave a car in an enclosed trailer for an extended period of time?

Not sure how your driveway looks but only thing I'd be concerned about is that someome will (or will try to ) steal the trailer. Enclosed trailers get stolen all the time. I have an airtag in my open one that is stored at the locked storage area.

 

[EuroKllr]

This would be my pick if I had the money (at that price, it's probably too good to be true)

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/tro/7557296376.html

 

[nbjeeptj]

That price is probably legit, but at that price it should not last long.

 

[WItoTX]

Thanks. Looks really good! I looked at a brand new InTech 24 yesterday. Really nice with cabinets, lighting, AC, extended ramp, and tons of extras. Dealer was asking $40K. I'd really like to get a nice configuration for under $30K. Going to pull my window sticker for the F150 and the owners manual and see what I have to work with there on the towing and capacity. It's was a loaded King Ranch F150, so I think it has a high end towing package. I've just not done much towing with it other than a small UHaul trailer. I'll check it out. Everyone here on the forum has given such great information! Thank you!

The more loaded the truck, the more it weighs. That is why the stripped down trucks have the most payload. Think about it, the powered, heated, cooled seats need motors, heating coils, and fans, vs the vinyl manual seat of the XL.

The KR has cameras, sensors, bigger rims, etc...all of which add weight. It's a sick truck, but the reality is if you want to tow only, the XL, regular cab, with the trailer max package is the way to go.

In order to get around the tongue weight/payload issue of the current truck, you could always back the car on, and get the motor weight off the tongue of the trailer/directly over the axles. Just have to balance it so that you don't create lift inadvertently.

Those InTech trailers are awesome!

 

[EuroKllr]

Do not, I repeat do NOT load your car backwards on the the trailer. If you load the trailer with more weight behind the axles than in front of them you will get a crazy amount of sway, and at highways speeds this can cause you to lose control of your tow vehicle. End result will be a very bad, no good, terrible, horrible, day.

Only cars that should be backed on to a trailer are mid and rear engine cars like the C8 Corvette and 911 Porsche.

 

[DRAGOON]

The way it seems to me is that the F-150 is always going to be at the max end of power, GVRW, payload, always on the top end. That’s a lot to ask. Close to beating the crap out of it. I would suggest a 250/2500 series at a minimum for an aluminum trailer, a Mustang and gear. Get a weight distribution hitch. This towing your car to the track is a slippery slope which I have traveled. Over do everything, pay a little more and then nothing to fret about. We have a F350 SRW, 24’ ATC with the Eaz-Lift Trekker 1200 WDH.

 

[EuroKllr]

Dragoon, that's a super setup you have. I agree with you, using a F250 (or similar), plus a really nice light weight 24+ foot all aluminum trailer would be best, but that setup is going to cost $100,000 minimum, and may not be an option for OP.

A F150 towing a light weight all aluminum trailer with dual axle brakes, brake controller, and a weight distribution hitch would work fine. Total cost less than $30,000.

To the OP, no matter what trailer you get, if you buy used be sure to have it inspected before use.

 

[DRAGOON]

Dragoon, that's a super setup you have. I agree with you, using a F250 (or similar), plus a really nice light weight 24+ foot all aluminum trailer would be best, but that setup is going to cost $100,000 minimum, and may not be an option for OP.

A F150 towing a light weight all aluminum trailer with dual axle brakes, brake controller, and a weight distribution hitch would work fine. Total cost less than $30,000.

To the OP, no matter what trailer you get, if you buy used be sure to have it inspected before use.

I tried to show what I have so I feel safe and comfortable without being too smug or a prick with money which is not the case. I was fortunate to procure my set up 5 years ago before everything went frinkin’ nuts. The car just a year ago. So yeah, it maybe not for all pocketbooks but what is possible with well spent money.

 

[DaveR.PP2]

I tried to show what I have so I feel safe and comfortable without being too smug or a prick with money which is not the case. I was fortunate to procure my set up 5 years ago before everything went frinkin’ nuts. The car just a year ago. So yeah, it maybe not for all pocketbooks but what is possible with well spent money.

I have a 24 ft ATC trailer like the one just posted previous. Mine is silver but pretty much same set up. Best trailer I've ever had to date. Tops in my book for the money, quality and value. You get a hell of a nice box for the money in my opinion.

 

[Bridgie]

I bought a stock, lightly used 20 x 8.5 enclosed earlier this year. I have a Ram 1500, which tows OK, but with the fat ass Mustang, it gets up there in weight..

I have added flooring, wall FRP panel, insulated and paneled roof, installed Shore power, cabinets and permanent tool chest, LED lighting and EZ Track.

I now stay in the trailer for weekends, Queen blowup bed, microwave, Fridge etc.. no more paying $150+ for hotels that I spend 8 hours per day in..

Let me know if you have my questions.?

 

[WCRookie99]

You could be ok with a F-150, try it and maybe it will work for you just fine.

However. I just went through this with a 2022 F-150 and 28' trailer. Sold both within 6 months. If, towing over the Rocky Mountains the F-150 will drive you nuts.

Almost dangerous as the trailer in the wind will blow the truck like a Tin Can even with the weight distribution kit. Power of the F-150 was not the problem rather the chassis, suspension and brakes seem undersized for Mountain HWYs.

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