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Having done this job a couple different ways in the past and then again last week, I can promise that this is the easiest (and safest) way to do it solo. https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html

...And a sharp edge on the spring. Smooth the edges of the end coil to save the next isolator.

No one was condescending towards him. Here's the deal. I don't have to know a hell of a lot about what the package is, because I know what the gears are. First is 4.696:1. Multiply that by 3.15. That's an overall launch gear of 14.79:1. So you're already traction limited in first even though...

Ya, a little bit of everything. It looks very stock. The windows are tinted and it has a 15-17 GT350 rear spoiler. I guess it sits a little lower than stock, but it's not dumped. You can' only start noticing things when you jack it up. It's just a lot of little things. My car is Magnetic...

They're the PP rates, so something like 170#/in front and 730#/in rear. You don't want Magneride.

There are 2 types of bumps, rollers where the whole chassis moves and sharp, chatter bumps which just the wheel moves. Which type are the bumps you're talking about? Stiffer springs over bumps to reduce chassis motion is not my normal path because it tends to hurt grip. Generally, I try to get...

That could very well be. Your home track has a fair bit of elevation change, right?

BNight- You've got 2 data points in terms of springs/dampers if I'm not mistaken? The change from PP dampers to Ohlins is chalk and cheese. That alone would be a massive change. You also raised the front spring by 300%, which anyone who has tried says gives great benefits. Then you raised the...

Quick update, it's on the ground and I've been around the block. It's got a gear whine that's concerning me. The diff groans a little turning in a cul-de-sac, but it's fine. No real read on the springs, but it drives.

I only have the Shelby Struts, not shocks. The rears are stock. It's kind of a lark. Let's see what we find.

The project has been a bit of a slog. I guess I need to do a separate write up about it. I'll do that after I know if it works. Anyway, after all sorts of playing around today, I finally have everything where it's supposed to be and almost all together. I'll have first impressions tomorrow...

Bingo, we have a winner.

Exactly, and we know that it's more common to run a stiff rear spring like that. I just don't like the rear of the car stiff and want to 'bracket' a range that works well for me. I suspect the 500 is going to be too soft, but it will be an interesting test, regardless. The rear end subframe is...

As if pissing into the wind were as simple as starting the stream.

If oil is at 280*F, then water is going to be through the roof as well. You're going to need at least 1 more heat exchanger, but probably 2. Time to get a Shelby or Mach 1 nose so you have functional side air intakes. Stacking coolers quickly becomes futile. The brake temps look great. In...

They're a better steel than all-thread, by a good chunk. This about the same for all studs. Thread lock or even a dab of silicone does wonders. There's not much torque on the stud when loosening/tightening the nut.

The whole exercise is to put a 3.15 gear in the car, which will come in handy for Auto-X (I'll be able to stay in 2nd the entire time. Keep in mind, I'm an Eco, so 1000 fewer revs than a Coyote). When you change to the 3.15, it's a smaller ring gear, so the Torsen doesn't fit. It only works with...

Rear spring put off for a day. 1 vote for 500's, so that's what I'll do. Why stop at Chicago on your way to New York, right? I'll have the subframe studs installed going back in, so if I don't like them, it's really only a couple hours to drop the sub and change them. I bet the rear will be...

When I click on your link I see a 600F/350R recommendation for a S197 chassis. I haven't done what everyone else has done on spring rates, so I'm used to people telling me I'm doing it wrong.

That's kinda what I'm thinking. I know it's probably too soft, but what does too soft feel like? Maybe swapping my 20mm RARB out for my 24mm one will get the roll couple back in a good window? On the other hand, is it just silly soft and wasting time and effort? Then I look at the Phoenix T1 car...