I did say plenty. Everything I said was correct, including some pretty fine-pointed details, which went completely unnoticed.
The whole FIA/ACO/WEC/IMSA homologation and BOP is too in-the-weeds for most people to care, but it has a massive influence on the racing. My error was trying to give a...
Put off by them is a better description and not even the majority...just the special few. My posts have very good information; you didn't like your toes getting stepped on because you have some sort of Daytona complex.
I don't care if you object to my bedside manner. I provided the logic behind...
Then don't use it.
So you don't even know what your hot pressures are? I promise you 100% that the tires do not rise the same amount. It might be "close enough" in your world. It's not in mine. Yours are going to have the right hand side pressures come in high. There's a lot more energy put...
You *have* to stagger the cold pressures at Daytona if you want them to be even when they're hot, because the right hand side will have a greater pressure rise than the left. I recommended 35 hot all around.
And your retort?
I recommended different settings which would be a closer start to wherever he's going to end up. IDGAF what you put on your car, he was asking for actual numbers instead of being preached to about factory alignments. It may shock you to hear this, but I generally don't do things, "By the book."...
JFC, the pearls before swine thing gets fucking old.
An S550 is pretty much an S550. Yours has more power. That doesn't change basics of the alignment. I specified the tires. Different tires will need fine tuning, but these numbers will be a good start. Use that info as you will. What I wrote...
Cupcake, I could make you look very, very silly right now. Stop it.
Yes, there are different factory settings for a stock alignment. On a track, if they're on the same basic tire, they will all run well with the same basic alignment even with slightly different spring/bar packages. It doesn't...
It's going to depend on what you have done to your car, but an S550 is an S550.
Camber: -2.5* front / -2.0* rear
Toe: 0.25mm in per side front / 2mm in per side rear on an 18" rim (don't make me calculate degrees)
Equal caster numbers if you can change it, but have the 'light' side at maximum.
For Daytona specifically, keep pressures to a minimum of 35 psi hot on all tires. There is _a lot_ of banking, so you need to have the load capacity in the tire. It should still have decent grip in the infield with these numbers. I'd start with morning colds around 28psi lefts and 27 rights...
How about flow numbers through side rads and/or brake cooling? It seems like these arch lips should be able to have a reasonably good influence on the under-nose flow. I still go back to venting aft of the wheel-well. If you were starting from scratch, you'd have massive venting or no bodywork...
I think something like this would help quite a bit. It really wouldn't hurt drag, because with the big wheels/tires on the car the tire is out in this area anyway. Make it out of carbon and have it pick up with fender well tabs to mount (3mm FHCS with countersunk washers and captive nuts, not...
Good stuff all around. My caveat I'd put on this is, "suspension geometry dependent" (kind of in your mechanical limits bit). If you get to a hard stop somewhere, that will piss the tire off, but sometimes toe or camber changes enough that you end up with a better car by making it stiff and not...
Don't you have this Nightmare? https://racelouvers.com/mustang-15-23-rear-lower-fender-louver-pair-fl-fender-trim/ I think your car is in the examples. If so, what did you notice when you put them on? I see the fender liner is completely out, but an option is to cut a bunch of big holes with a...
Check this out. The things he's talking about, we wouldn't directly use, but the underbody views are gold. It really goes to show how venting the wheel well is a problem. Ideally, there would be minimal fender behind the actual tire, but since we all have a fender, then it needs to be vented...