Post bbq tick users. WHICH OIL?

[accel]

Here's very interesting video on rod bearing and lifter ticks with showing engine parts etc.

He says that if noise is lifter noise, then using thicker oil will make it worse. So.... that is the case in my situation - I tried going up tp 5w30 and was very disappointed. But if it is, its good news.

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[GT Pony]

Here's very interesting video on rod bearing and lifter ticks with showing engine parts etc.

He says that if noise is lifter noise, then using thicker oil will make it worse. So.... that is the case in my situation - I tried going up tp 5w30 and was very disappointed. But if it is, its good news.

I went to Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 from Motorcraft 5W-20 and my valve train/top end (maybe cam chains too?) sound quieter. All I can hear is the faint tick of the fuel injectors now. The type/formulation of the oil has a lot to do how quiet or not it makes the engine ... it's not just the viscosity rating.

 

[accel]

I went to Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 from Motorcraft 5W-20 and my valve train/top end (maybe cam chains too?) sound quieter. All I can hear is the faint tick of the fuel injectors now. The type/formulation of the oil has a lot to do how quiet or not it makes the engine ... it's not just the viscosity rating.

Do you have the tick?

 

[GT Pony]

Do you have the tick?

No, i have never heard any ticking - I listen closely every time I fire it up in the garage and when I come back home and pull it into the garage. My 2015 is pretty quiet running, but only has 4100 miles. I changed oil at 2200 (with M/C 5W-20) and again at 4000 miles (with Valvoline 5W-30). Motorcraft FL-500S oil filter at both oil changes.

 

[accel]

No, i have never heard any ticking - I listen closely every time I fire it up in the garage and when I come back home and pull it into the garage. My 2015 is pretty quiet running, but only has 4100 miles. I changed oil at 2200 (with M/C 5W-20) and again at 4000 miles (with Valvoline 5W-30).

Well, the guy talks about problematic noices. Not normal noises.

 

[GT Pony]

Well, the guy talks about problematic noices. Not normal noises.

What guy? ... video you posted? All I'm saying is my top end sounds quieter now with the Valvoline 5W-30 than it did with the M/C 5W-20. YMMV.

 

[accel]

What guy? ... video you posted? All I'm saying is my top end sounds quieter now with the Valvoline 5W-30 than it did with the M/C 5W-20. YMMV.

Sorry, I thought you were commenting on video specifically.

 

[stangman638]

CERATEC-

OK, I'll have to admit what I've done, since even though many have tried this, and I even plugged the idea myself, I have been very hesitant about adding anything to my oil.

To recap my history. At 800 miles, I noticed the BBQ tick started on the original factory fill, but it only occurred at idle, and slowly got worse. Could have started earlier, but I didn't notice it until 800 miles.

1st OC - At 1,000 miles, I changed the oil to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20, and a Mobil 1 oil filter. The BBQ tick continued to get worse. I inspected the original oil, and did not notice anything abnormal in the drain pan. I did not open the original Motorcraft filter. I probably should have, but wasn't too concerned at the time with the tick.

At 3,000 miles using Mobil 1 EP 5w20, the tick slowly morphed from ticking at idle during warmup only, into no longer ticking at idle when warm. Instead, now it ticks when blip revving in neutral from 1,200rpm and up with a constant tick in sync with engine rpm.


2nd OC - At 3,500 miles (yesterday), I switched oil again to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30, and a Motorcraft FL-500S oil filter. The tick did not change. No longer ticking at idle, but definitely ticking above 1,200rpm.

I kept all the old Mobil 1 EP 5w20, and inspected the drain pan. After letting it settle for a good 20 minutes, I saw nothing on the bottom of the pan. I also opened up the Mobil 1 oil filter, and I only saw a "few" super tiny particles of metal. I leafed through all the pleats and it was very clean to the naked eye. The filter seemed perfectly fine. The Mobil 1 EP oil itself did seem quite a bit dark for only having 2,500 miles on it though.

- Whatever this tick is, it certainly doesn't seemed to be causing any notable damage. At least, not yet.

Ceratec- When I got home last night, I decided to add Ceratec to the fresh PUP 5w30 oil change. The bottle says to add 1 bottle for 5qts of oil, so 2 bottles (600ml) for 10qts of PUP. This seemed a bit ridiculous. Over $40 to treat my engine. I just don't want to put that much stuff in. So, I only added about half a bottle (150ml), to see if there was any affect.

After going for a short drive around our area at 30-50mph, I got home, and checked for the tick.

The tick immediately stopped! I could tell when revving in neutral, it sounded like it wanted to tick when it hit 1,200rpm, but didn't. As if I would hear one quiet tick, then nothing. I will continue to drive the car, and make any updates to this if anything changes. Some have said their tick came back after several weeks of using Ceratec. I will definitely keep my ears open.

I spent a nice chunk on after market tires and rims, another nice bit on a new exhaust system, all on top of the price of the car, I will be damned if I have to shell out more dough to cover up a ticking noise... I hope it works out for you, I want a new engine.

 

[Condor1970]

I spent a nice chunk on after market tires and rims, another nice bit on a new exhaust system, all on top of the price of the car, I will be damned if I have to shell out more dough to cover up a ticking noise... I hope it works out for you, I want a new engine.

That's just it. Some guys are on their third engine, and they still tick. Even the 2019's are ticking. If you get a new engine, I sure hope it works out for you as well. I have a feeling I'll be ending up with a new engine eventually. The thing that bugs me is the carfax and depreciating value when you change an engine.

 

[accel]

Ford made me oil change addict.

I really want to try castrol edge 5w20 with titanium.

 

[GregO]

Ford made me oil change addict.

I really want to try castrol edge 5w20 with titanium.

Try Castrol SAE 0W-20
0W’s are an advance oil vs. 5W’s

The Castrol Professional 0W-20 is very close to a 30wt. when poured out of the bottle.

 

[accel]

Try Castrol SAE 0W-20
0W’s are an advance oil vs. 5W’s

The Castrol Professional 0W-20 is very close to a 30wt. when poured out of the bottle.

0w20 I see in stores is not "professional", so whatever special edition of castrol you refer is not publicly available. I'd rather stick with generally available oil.

 

[GregO]

0w20 I see in stores is not "professional", so whatever special edition of castrol you refer is not publicly available. I'd rather stick with generally available oil.

I noticed recently that Wally World stocked
Castrol Edge SAE 0W-20 Extended Performance.
My last post wasn’t clear about the SAE version vs. the Professional version.
My gut is telling me now that the Professional is blended in the USA that they are almost identical. The Professional was touted as Microfiltered and UV dyed blended in Germany.

 

[accel]

I noticed recently that Wally World stocked
Castrol Edge SAE 0W-20 Extended Performance.
My last post wasn’t clear about the SAE version vs. the Professional version.
My gut is telling me now that the Professional is blended in the USA that they are almost identical. The Professional was touted as Microfiltered and UV dyed blended in Germany.

They also have ext perf 5w20. Not sure I want thinner oil.

That guy in youtube video above said thinner oil will reduce the tick if it was lifter related tick, but long term consequences would be rod bearing wear.

The video plus me playing with oil viscosities and seing 5w30 having tick worse...

Plus noise coming from the passenger side cylinder 4 area where lifters have worst oil conditions.

Plus tick having intermittent nature.

I start believing that lifters do the tick. Their replacement does not fix anything as that's not lifter fault but oil flow fault.

And that also explains why friction modifiers improve it.

I am gooing to relax and add some friction modifier.

Just do not like ceratec even though I have a bottle of it.

Is there any good one that would be transparent? I've seen someone mentioninh HyperLube zinc replacement.

 

[Condor1970]

They also have ext perf 5w20. Not sure I want thinner oil.

That guy in youtube video above said thinner oil will reduce the tick if it was lifter related tick, but long term consequences would be rod bearing wear.

The video plus me playing with oil viscosities and seing 5w30 having tick worse...

Plus noise coming from the passenger side cylinder 4 area where lifters have worst oil conditions.

Plus tick having intermittent nature.

I start believing that lifters do the tick. Their replacement does not fix anything as that's not lifter fault but oil flow fault.

And that also explains why friction modifiers improve it.

I am gooing to relax and add some friction modifier.

Just do not like ceratec even though I have a bottle of it.

Is there any good one that would be transparent? I've seen someone mentioninh HyperLube zinc replacement.

Why would rod bearing damage be worse with 5w30? The difference in viscosity at normal operating temperature is very small. In fact, they're almost the same. The difference is 5w30 holds it viscosity better at higher temperature. Especially if it's a positive displacement pump forcing oil into the bearing, along with the fact that 5w30 usually has a slightly higher shear strength. This alone will generally provide better protection, though it will have more drag and slightly less gas mileage. Not very noticeable though. Most people have no idea how close 5w20 and 5w30 really are. When you're dealing with an engine that can easily run 5w40 or 50 for drag racing, etc. then using 5w30 is certainly not providing "less" protection, even when it is cold outside.

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