SCCA CAM-C Thread

[jpaulson]

Hi everyone - I am currently considering either Koni or Steeda adjustable struts/shocks for my "very budget" CAM-C build for local occasional autocross use (2106 GT PP). Currently it is on a Steeda "lowering spring" that was on the car when I bought it, on the stock struts/shocks and bars, stock Pirelli summer tires but square 275s on 19x10 wheels, and camber bolts. The car seems to be ponderous and rolly in a way that makes it not fun when autocrossing. (Tires are of course the first thing to address to be quicker.)

I am not particularly concerned with ending up with a harsh street ride if it provides for as good an autocrossing car as I can muster on a budget, and thus I suspect I will want whichever one is better suited with whatever (stiff) spring is ultimately chosen.

Is there a consensus as to which of these would be a better starting point, or is there a third similar budget spring/strut option I am not considering? Thanks in advance.

This Megan Racing/Bilstein set up was the best bang for the buck setup I could find. I started my CAM build with konis and steeda springs but that only lasted a few months. The twin tube konis don't particularly ride well on the street. This Monotube setup was far superior in ride control and comfort. I just sold my GT and have this set available.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/megan-racing-bilstein-hybrid-coilovers.147516/

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[TeeLew]

This Monotube setup was far superior in ride control and comfort. I just sold my GT and have this set available.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/megan-racing-bilstein-hybrid-coilovers.147516/

If I hadn't already started down a different path, this is what I'd do. You won't find a better deal.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I wouldn't turn someone away from that megan coilover setup. That said, Konis and some good springs with decent spring rates is a perfectly fun and fast setup for a casual autocrosser in CAMC. It will be more capable than most drivers. Considering you want to reuse your current 10" square wheels, seems like a fine enough plan.

Between the Konis adjustables and the Steeda adjustables, they're made in the same factory. The differences are in the valving and the color of the paint. I don't know anyone who's run both, so flip a coin?

After spending $1300 on springs, shocks, and hopefully some camber plates, you're over half-way to the mentioned coilover package, and after paying for an install, its more like 3/4 the way there. Maybe worth spending a little bit more and getting into a better damper and coilover on the linked setup.

 

[Dana Pants]

To compensate for inadequate spring stiffness, you might end up with a huge front swaybar on full stiff. It sort of works... but it’s another added cost to consider vs coil overs.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

To compensate for inadequate spring stiffness, you might end up with a huge front swaybar on full stiff. It sort of works... but it’s another added cost to consider vs coil overs.

Which has its own issues that don't really do the same thing as the stiffer fronts (less overall grip vs more spring).

 

[Open Loop]

If you're going to do it, do it right: good coilovers. You cannot get properly stiff for CAM with lowering springs and struts. You make up the lack of speed in tighter corners with high speed transitions (slaloms and high speed gates). This requires having a car that is easy to push hard and transitions quickly, leading to stiff front springs in particular.

Thank you to everyone for your comments and suggestions. I do have a further question regarding not being able to get a suspension stiff enough for CAM on springs/struts. Is the problem that nobody is making a sufficiently stiff spring, or that no off-the-shelf strut is being made that can damp such a spring (or both)?

I am never going to turn this car into a nationally competitive CAM-C car. I would be happy to settle for simply "a heck of a lot better" than what I have now. What I would like is to make it more point-and-shoot like my SSC FR-S, which is on Konis, Eibach pro springs and bars, and to me feels pretty great. I understand that it may be impossible to make it exactly like it due to weight and proportions, but I would like to make it closer to that, so it is not ponderous and rolling back and forth, where it feels like my inputs take half a second to make it to the ground.

Is anyone running around on an off-the shelf strut/shock and stiff spring that they think is a really good combo?

I recognize that I might look back and say "well I should have just bought a good set of coils" but I want to explore my options. (That is a steal of a price for those proven re-valved coilovers.)

Thank you again.

 

[Dana Pants]

The problem is that the droop length of the front struts prevent a stiffer spring. Something stiffer is too short and would fall off the perches or have a tall ride height.

 

[SteveW]

Is anyone running around on an off-the shelf strut/shock and stiff spring that they think is a really good combo?


Thank you again.

We/I only did for a few months then realized how inadequate it was.

Find something with 500+ lb-in front springs, tenders and don't waste money on trying to make a consumer grade lowering spring work in CAMC, nationally competitive or not.

There is a sweet setup just like that for sale by @jpaulson right now. He's whipped my butt a few times with it

 

[TeeLew]

It's telling us what it wants...more compression damping, particularly low-speed.

I know rebound heavy damping is common here, but I'm just reading the thread here and it's kinda screaming it.

 

[jpaulson]

It's telling us what it wants...more compression damping, particularly low-speed.

I know rebound heavy damping is common here, but I'm just reading the thread here and it's kinda screaming it.

This. IME, the koni's just didn't have enough compression damping. I tried mine with the steeda dual rate springs, which were the stiffest OE type I could find. Best way I can describe it is that the car "flopped" from side to side during transitional events. Was not very confidence inspiring to drive.

 

[TeeLew]

BTW, all the arms are back with the SuperPro poly bushings now, so I need to rehang the suspension, align the car & pack up my crap up for Saturday morning.

Hey Brian, how bad is the jigsaw puzzle of carrying a set of tires? Or was that just a rumor they'd fit?

 

[Brian@BMVK]

BTW, all the arms are back with the SuperPro poly bushings now, so I need to rehang the suspension, align the car & pack so my crap up for Saturday morning.

Hey Brian, how bad is the jigsaw puzzle of carrying a set of tires? Or was that just a rumor they'd fit?

They do fit. There's an easy way and less easy way, and it depends on how tall you are if it's an issue. Easiest way is 1 in the trunk, two in the back seat, one on the passenger seat. Less easy way is 3 in the back seat. Can be done, but you'll have to move the seat up a good bit (not good for long trips if 6'0 or taller).

 

[Dana Pants]

Easiest way to carry tires: tire platform + trailer hitch.

 

[kz]

They fit easily - I've been hauling 11 inch wheels with 305/30s around the entire country this year. With tools, cooler, jack & jackstands, tire sprayer and who knows what else (scooter for example - super useful in large sites). One in the trunk in the space for spare wheel, rear backseat down and all three in the back. Cooler in the front seat so I have access to cold drinks ;-)

With narrower tires (275/285s in FS sizes), two fit in the trunk...

 

[Brian@BMVK]

One in the trunk in the space for spare wheel, rear backseat down and all three in the back.

*Jurassic Park clever girl*

I didn't think one would even come close to fitting in the spare well. Do you take the trunk liner out?

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