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I have replaced or locked out ~16 rear bushings so far and every time I did something the car felt better. I say go nuts back there. Also you want a hair front toe in to not kill front tires.

After weighing my options and talking to the local hardos, I ordered a verus wing this morning. It seems well engineered and not totally absurd to have on a car that drives every day. Thanks for making me aware of this brand. Will report back in a month or so when I run my first event with it.

Front toe should be very slightly in if you care about inside tire wear. Maybe 1/16 an inch or something small like that. I run like 1/8 inch rear toe in as well.

Thanks for that. What AOA are you using with your Verus? Spot checking 80 mph, it looks like the APR 200 maxes out at ~117 lb of downforce and the Verus could achieve. ~180 lb.

CamC Wings: is anyone running the apr 200 wing? Is it enough? Or do y’all go “really big” for a reason? My s2000 and Miata friends are all running monster wings with almost no angle of attack, so I’m a bit questioning if big is really needed or just in style. I don’t really plan a splitter...

Don’t remove. Leave rubbing. Mine look the same. It’s no big deal.

After years of taking out the trunk floor for autocross and track days because it knocks around on course, I forgot to yesterday because of first event brain fog. Then, I finally realized this is one of the easiest problems to solve permanently thanks to the modern miracle of Velcro...

3 feet is definitely fine, as this is about all I roll-out in my garage. The car has to be lifted "to the moon" if you want to put a torque wrench and/or 2 foot breaker bar on the rear toe adjustments and not make yourself crazy. People say they can adjust rear camber with the car loaded...

I use tenhulzen plates and ordinary string. There are multiple valid methods to align at home. I mount tires on the floor of my home office the caveman way and balance with a bubble balancer. If I had room for tire machines I would go that route immediately.

I just checked and I have aligned my car 19 times. Probably saved myself like $3000. When stuff is getting regularly abused, broken, replaced, and upgraded, it becomes sort of crazy to pay someone and set aside the time to make appointments each time the suspension comes apart. To be fair, for...

Caliper rebuild is definitely an undocumented procedure because ford only replaces the caliper. Good luck!

With performance summer tires, you throw them away and/or fire sale on Facebook when this happens. It’s just the cost of doing business. My Michelins did a similar thing. I have better luck with continental ECS (now ECS02).

More camber and more caster = more front grip. Like -4 front camber and all the caster. The “correct” way to deal with this is more throttle. My car is an absolute pig without the skinny pedal. It even self-corrects in the snow if I lift.

I run 33f 31f for the yokos. 295 35 r18 on 18x11. -4 front camber, almost -3 rear. I did lots of science. I’m convinced those are the right pressures for my setup.

Driving the car hard until something breaks. I will not entertain any discussions of user error.

like so:

I fatigue killed 2 or 3 OEM rear studs. Now I have arp studs in the rear. As I recall, a stud broke while I had covid and I installed all of them in a blind rage.

I drove with “real” motor sports stickers for like a year (Mandatory sponsor stickers mostly) and not a single police officer bothered me. If the police pull you over, it’s be of your driving, not your stickers.

This feature is normally called “flood clear mode” and turns the engine over without fuel.

Ford has no special prep requirements for pretty much any chassis bolt. Because the manual always says to throw them away. That being said, you don’t have to back them off. The torque wrench goes click and you continue to live your life.