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Crankshaft snout snapped

sigintel

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ATI thicker or thinner?
We Might need any underhead washer thickness difference.
I would measure mine, but I think I chucked everything off back deck into the woods drunk one night.

The real answer to this is to check a stock assembly:
See if the TG is compressed or if it is floating with a mil or light interference. With damper fully seated, if stock does not compress TG as much as ATI w ARP, that would be a substantial difference in ability of snout to flex without the huge stress riser inboard.

Hmm, I wonder if I drop the pan if I can try getting a feeler gauge between damper and TG?...
PM me if anyone finds or knows of a stock motor out of the car? Whos got a motor down atm?
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ramirj2

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9FC739BF-DE10-466C-93C6-1A2702923185.jpeg
If memory serves me correctly, I don't think the factory balancer sits flush in the keyway. I remember cleaning a ton of the factory sealant from the inside of the balancer and the end of the keyway. Maybe I am wrong.
Yes but here you can see the difference.
 

Tommy V

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Unless that slide off some when it broke,that dampner was not seated all the way on.I just an ati dampner about a month ago and it set on futher then that.Pictures can be decieving though.
 

grabber_17

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Tommy V

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Was the bolt broke off in the crank or did it just back out?
 

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Jay-rod427

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Make this official. The day my crank snout snaps I'll buy everyone who has posted in this thread a case of their finest beer. 2-step check, 750+whp check, 7,500+rpm check, massive blower pulley hanging off the balancer check, over tension the blower belt check.

A dealership, and most "Mustang shops" are very unlikely IMO to take the proper steps.

Don't measure interference fit? FAIL
Don't measure seat depth? FAIL
Don't use proper install tool? FAIL
Don't torque the crank bolt properly? FAIL
Re-use the stock crank bolt? FAIL
Don't put anti-seize on the snout? FAIL
Used heat on the hub to go on "easier"? FAIL
 

Oxford_5oh

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Just pulled the trigger on a Paxton kit with OPGs and after reading this thread im terrified.. getting everything done at finish line performance located at Beefcake's. Went with them because I figured this isn't their first rodeo, hope I'm right...

Didn't see the answer so sorry for asking if it's answered, but are any stock balancer snouts snapping or only with aftermarket ones?
 

TheHydro

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Make this official. The day my crank snout snaps I'll buy everyone who has posted in this thread a case of their finest beer. 2-step check, 750+whp check, 7,500+rpm check, massive blower pulley hanging off the balancer check, over tension the blower belt check.

A dealership, and most "Mustang shops" are very unlikely IMO to take the proper steps.

Don't measure interference fit? FAIL
Don't measure seat depth? FAIL
Don't use proper install tool? FAIL
Don't torque the crank bolt properly? FAIL
Re-use the stock crank bolt? FAIL
Don't put anti-seize on the snout? FAIL
Used heat on the hub to go on "easier"? FAIL
I hope you never experience a crank failure but I wanted to reply to this thread to make me eligible for a case of beer in the event you have a misfortune.
 

ramirj2

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Was the bolt broke off in the crank or did it just back out?
Neither!
I just didn’t measure the interference.
Torqued to spec (checked regularly and it never backed), but it didn’t seated properly.
It snapped like all the other photos here behind the Camshaft Sproket. Bolt was fine, it was an APR.
 

Copley17

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Make this official. The day my crank snout snaps I'll buy everyone who has posted in this thread a case of their finest beer. 2-step check, 750+whp check, 7,500+rpm check, massive blower pulley hanging off the balancer check, over tension the blower belt check.

A dealership, and most "Mustang shops" are very unlikely IMO to take the proper steps.

Don't measure interference fit? FAIL
Don't measure seat depth? FAIL
Don't use proper install tool? FAIL
Don't torque the crank bolt properly? FAIL
Re-use the stock crank bolt? FAIL
Don't put anti-seize on the snout? FAIL
Used heat on the hub to go on "easier"? FAIL
Exactly this. You better be a pro engine builder or a machinist to get it spot on spec. The average joe (and definitely the dealership) do not have the measurement tools to get the precision required.

I was in the midst of my whipple install when i read this tread. I went to the dealer and bought a new stock bolt and washer. I'm enjoying the whipple and the ATI damper and ARP bolt i bought are on sitting on the shelf. The ATI was intended to be insurance for me, but it appears to add more risk than a re-install of the stocker to ford specs.
 

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Rjames18

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Wonder if this has been resolved for 2018's? Since they have a new damper
 

stang17

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For those of you that had this happen, what condition were the heads in afterwards? Hoping I can get away with an aluminator short block and salvage the stock heads.
 

HoosierDaddy

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I hope you never experience a crank failure but I wanted to reply to this thread to make me eligible for a case of beer in the event you have a misfortune.
Thanks for the tip
 

olaosunt

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For those of you that had this happen, what condition were the heads in afterwards? Hoping I can get away with an aluminator short block and salvage the stock heads.
On my 12 Boss motor the heads were pretty beat up but my buddy who bought them was able to salvage after spending a bit of $$$$.

More recently on the GT350 heads on my MMR 5.2 block also took a beating with broken rocker arms and valves likely need replaced ... but hoping I can salvage them .
E44A5C99-728F-4C85-B048-BF050C42DCBF.png
 
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isedawishy

isedawishy

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For those of you that had this happen, what condition were the heads in afterwards? Hoping I can get away with an aluminator short block and salvage the stock heads.
Pretty much only thing they reused from mine were cams.
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