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Crankshaft snout snapped

sigintel

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Make this official. The day my crank snout snaps I'll buy everyone who has posted in this thread a case of their finest beer. 2-step check, 750+whp check, 7,500+rpm check, massive blower pulley hanging off the balancer check, over tension the blower belt check.

A dealership, and most "Mustang shops" are very unlikely IMO to take the proper steps.

Don't measure interference fit? FAIL
Don't measure seat depth? FAIL
Don't use proper install tool? FAIL
Don't torque the crank bolt properly? FAIL
Re-use the stock crank bolt? FAIL
Don't put anti-seize on the snout? FAIL
Used heat on the hub to go on "easier"? FAIL
When you pull your damper to change the timing chains (I trashed the stock ones in one season), slide the TG off and dye penetrant the inboard crank surface where the TG has worn/compressed the shaft case hardening.
Grab a loupe and a good light.
I would expect damage on the crank surface.
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sigintel

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Exactly this. You better be a pro engine builder or a machinist to get it spot on spec. The average joe (and definitely the dealership) do not have the measurement tools to get the precision required.

I was in the midst of my whipple install when i read this tread. I went to the dealer and bought a new stock bolt and washer. I'm enjoying the whipple and the ATI damper and ARP bolt i bought are on sitting on the shelf. The ATI was intended to be insurance for me, but it appears to add more risk than a re-install of the stocker to ford specs.
There is a good chance the ARP bolt is too stiff.
I would lean toward dry mounting damper on crank and use stock bolt EXACTLY to stock torque and no more. Get a torque test cell ($60) and confirm torque wrenches before torquing.
Antiseize is grease. Doesnt make sense to add a lubricant to an interface you absolutely cant have slipping.

For the record, I dry mounted mine.
 

Jay-rod427

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There is a good chance the ARP bolt is too stiff.
I would lean toward dry mounting damper on crank and use stock bolt EXACTLY to stock torque and no more. Get a torque test cell ($60) and confirm torque wrenches before torquing.
Antiseize is grease. Doesnt make sense to add a lubricant to an interface you absolutely cant have slipping.

For the record, I dry mounted mine.
Withou lubing the snout interference fit will gall the steel on steel.... how’s an interference fit that’s clamped with a bolt goin to “slip”?
 

Dominant1

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There's a common thread when this happens "aftermarket balancers".................
 

Roh92cp

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Anyone put one of the new 18-19 dampers on? I here they’re better than the stock 15-17.
 

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stang17

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What balancer comes on the gen 2 aluminator crate engine? Is it the same as stock?
 

olaosunt

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I have one I bought off a member with an 18 who did a 10 rib .
Plan is to use it on my 5.2 allumunator BPS build
 

olaosunt

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I also think the 18 damper is a different diameter ?

Not sure by how much but I think it slightly larger .
 

Roh92cp

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I also think the 18 damper is a different diameter ?

Not sure by how much but I think it slightly larger .
Not sure either, but I’ve read somewhere could be bad info that an 18-19 damper was installed on a 17 F150 blown motor.
 

sigintel

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Withou lubing the snout interference fit will gall the steel on steel.... how’s an interference fit that’s clamped with a bolt goin to “slip”?
ehhhh.. Source on that info?
Worked my way thru college in a machine shop. Surface hardened steels are very difficult to gall.
Clean and dry 60 HRc gradient crank with 50HRc damper?...
Who has galled a clean dry crankshaft installing a sub 50HRc damper?
Only way to gall it is if you miss align it on start.

Regarding how its going to slip.. You do not want it to slip. Its effectively cold forging the damper onto the crank.
 

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Jay-rod427

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ehhhh.. Source on that info?
Worked my way thru college in a machine shop. Surface hardened steels are very difficult to gall.
Clean and dry 60 HRc gradient crank with 50HRc damper?...
Who has galled a clean dry crankshaft installing a sub 50HRc damper?
Only way to gall it is if you miss align it on start.
I guess I'm the source. Former ASE certified master mechanic, currently mechanical engineer, operations manager of aerospace machine shop, been working on engines/cars/projects since grade school, still avid racer/ mechanic on several race cars. To each their own tho, just my opinion. Galling is caused by friction. Like an interferrence fit part. I agree surface hardening and finish helps, but.... Galling leads to unseated, false torque, and misalignment.
 

ramirj2

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What balancer comes on the gen 2 aluminator crate engine? Is it the same as stock?
Stock balancer.
CJ oil pump but stock Cam sprocket also (I’ll have to open it before install)
 

Rjames18

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The 18 balancer is heavier than the 15-17.. Not sure how that would help from not breaking off the snout of the crank.
 

Vegas5OH

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Had a non seated ati 20% balancer take out oil pump gears on a buddys car. 2018 GT A10, 3.0 whipple, 10 rib kit. When the balancer was originally installed anti seize was applied on the crank snout and the hub, arp bolt used torqued to 110ft lbs. Sucks but atleast it didnt snap off the crank snout. Those ATI balancers are real touchy, Im hesitant to do an 8 rib on my car now.
 

ramirj2

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The 18 balancer is heavier than the 15-17.. Not sure how that would help from not breaking off the snout of the crank.
I think it is just better on the OPG (dampening vibrations) because is fluid instead just elastomer.
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