BMR vs. Steeda handling upgrades

[Kobi Addiction]

@Kobi Addiction

-What was your decision process for the sport springs over the dual rate ultimate springs?

-Steeda site says the billet shock mounts are only for non-magneride cars?

My vehicle is 100% street driven right now, and didn't need a dual rate spring which seems to be more tailored for the track. I still wanted that comfortable ride, but still able to perform when needed. I also liked the idea of a 1" drop. Their dual rate option along with the FP springs, only lowered it .50 - .75".

The reason for the non-magnaride notation is due to the wire and connector coming out of the top of the shock. The only way to install any aftermarket shock mount on a magnaride vehicle is to cut the 2 magnaride wires and splice back together. There is no other way around it, I've tried Lol. I bit the bullet and cut the wires for the installation and I have not had any issues using the suspension modes.

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[galaxy]

....The only way to install any aftermarket shock mount on a magnaride vehicle is to cut the 2 magnaride wires and splice back together. There is no other way around it, I've tried Lol. I bit the bullet and cut the wires for the installation....

Oohhhhh....gutsiest move I ever saw, Mav! LOL!

Seems like there'd be a plug or something on the non-shock end that one could route through, but apparently not.

 

[nastang87xx]

With respects to both, I run BMR parts due to...reasons. Don't ask why. But there is nothing wrong with Steeda parts. At all. But I'm also at a point where I don't need to be so discretionary to a degree and if I were getting a new front sway bar right now it would be Steeda. If I were bracing the rear subframe, I would get the BMR lockout kit. If I were getting new vertical links, it would be Steeda.

 

[Kobi Addiction]

Oohhhhh....gutsiest move I ever saw, Mav! LOL!

Seems like there'd be a plug or something on the non-shock end that one could route through, but apparently not.

True, that was my initial thinking. Then comes the nut that tightens the shock mount to the upper shock. Once you loosen the nut to remove the mount, it won’t fit over the connector for removal.

When the shock is being assembled with the factory shock mount, they must add the connector last. Which is another reason why you can’t purchase a factory shock mount separate, it all comes together with the shock/strut assembly.

 

[stanglife]

I run full tilt boogie spherical bearings/solid bushings in my IRS and it's a phenomenal upgrade. Tons of feedback from the rear and no give on the track. Very little NVH overall as well (diff bushings are stock).

Too bad Full Tilt Boogie doesn't race their stuff ;) ;) ;)

Also remember, similarly to opinions, forum sponsors and sales people are here to sell, of course they have a high opinion of their products and abilities.

If you're out racing, see what successful racers in your group/class are running and learn from their experiences. If you're on the street - then you aren't likely outdriving your tires or suspension - just pick what you want ;)

 

[honeybadger]

Too bad Full Tilt Boogie doesn't race their stuff ;) ;) ;)

Also remember, similarly to opinions, forum sponsors and sales people are here to sell, of course they have a high opinion of their products and abilities.

If you're out racing, see what successful racers in your group/class are running and learn from their experiences. If you're on the street - then you aren't likely outdriving your tires or suspension - just pick what you want ;)

Ha. To be fair, Full Tilt Boogie races their stuff. They're just a small shop and not well known. Owner is out there racing quite a bit from what I'm told. To your point, though, I got those parts because a buddy of mine was running them and he vouched for the owner. If I was starting over I would go with BMR stuff - there's a reason so many of the Mustangs racing in NASA are using the their parts. And Kelly is very knowledgeable and honest about stuff (at least from what I've seen and experienced myself).

Not trying to trash anyone. I've had a few Steeda parts and they've worked fine as long as you buy them for the right reasons. Like others have said, different audiences, IMHO.

 

[nastang87xx]

Yeah pretty sure FTB races their stuff too. I heard about Full Tilt Boogie right at Road America.

 

[NoXiDe]

I put Nitto 555 G2's on when I changed wheels and tramlining disappeared.

Although the wheels and the Nitto 555G2 helped your tramlining issue, I don't want others to think this is the direction to go if there peak interest is in handling performance. The 555 G2 is on the very edge and if you go over that edge it will not handle like a 1K+ tire (e.g. 4S).

I currently own them and have 10K and probably will be stuck with them for another year or two unless someone decides they want them more than I do. The only positive thing to say about them is they can last 20K-30K so you sacrifice handling performance slightly for more tread life. My issue is that slight lost of handling performance puts me at a disadvantage when trying to keep up with 350's with 4S/PSS.

 

[stanglife]

Yeah pretty sure FTB races their stuff too. I heard about Full Tilt Boogie right at Road America.

Yes - sarcasm is hard to put on to paper sometimes . We have an FTBR IRS kit on our 01 Cobra. Also have some of their rotors and other parts.

 

[ClayDee]

I chose Steeda. They are local to me in Val-Vegas. Great customer service and product. BMR is also a great company. You can't go wrong with either one in my opinion. Good luck.

 

[nastang87xx]

Yes - sarcasm is hard to put on to paper sometimes .

Goddamnit! Why you do dat!

 

[2JZFAN]

Why not both? You can't go wrong with either, if you do your research.

I have components from both. I've been a long time Steeda customer, many, many, years.. Though, I'd never limit myself to just one brand. Over the years I've combined Steeda with components from Kenny Brown, Maximum Motorsports, and Full Tilt Boogie.. More recently, there are just some things I prefer from BMR.

Look closely at the components you're comparing.. Design, finish, and included hardware. Go with what you prefer and who gives you value. Both brands will have incredible sales this month, you're just in time to do the research you need. Good luck!

 

[galaxy]

Why is 99% of these discussion about the rear end? Is there just not that much need or demand for improvements to the front? Or have I just missed it?

 

[JAJ]

Oohhhhh....gutsiest move I ever saw, Mav! LOL!

Seems like there'd be a plug or something on the non-shock end that one could route through, but apparently not.

Well... there's a video on the web somewhere that shows how to do this. Depin the connector shell, slide the nut off over the (now loose) wires, swap the upper mount, put the nut back on and then push the pins back into the connector shell. Easy, if you've got the tools and the experience.

The way I remember it, there's something about the aftermarket upper mounts that requires a new nut to hold the shock. I don't remember the details, but this is tricky because the shock is threaded M11x1.0, which is an oddball size that's not so easy to find. IIRC, the guy that posted the video actually took a smaller nut intended for a different shock (M10x1.0 maybe) and reamed it out and re-tapped it to fit the magride shock.

EDIT: I figured out what the video was about - it was installing Steeda upper shock mounts, and they have a combination nut/sleeve to fill the space in the spherical bearing. That's why the nut had to be reamed and re-tapped - it wasn't a nut, it was a special part.

 

[ShatterPoints]

Why is 99% of these discussion about the rear end? Is there just not that much need or demand for improvements to the front? Or have I just missed it?

The rear is affected the most from all of the dynamic forces. The front does not have drive wheels and struts are pretty limited in changes you can make to them and their mount positions. The front is pretty much going to be total aero and alignment for your preferred turn in.

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