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I’ve been purchasing OE interior and exterior pieces over the years for the exact same reason. I haven’t needed to replace anything on mine yet due to wear and tear or faulty items other than the usual….Brake pads, clutch. I take that back, I had an o2 sensor fail on me.

I upgraded injectors and run the lethal performance BAP's. I felt upgrading the fuel system was a bit much for my application, and I don't believe I made the incorrect choice with approx 54k miles boosted on this setup. I purchased the dual Spal fan plug-n-play setup from Whipple with the...

Very nice list, very similar to mine 👌🏼. Other items that I don’t see on your list, but you may already have are…. - MMR lightweight aluminum water pump pulley with APR bolts (choose your brand) - Steeda lightweight aluminum idler pulleys (I used 5 to replace the steel idlers on the factory...

Chiming in on my experience with the Antigravity ATX20HD. Installed May/2021 with 48,800 miles 21 lbs weight savings = worth every penny. Usage: 2 years, 8 months Current miles: 69,000 Not a daily, but driven often. The vehicle is garage parked and always on an Optimate TM-291 trickle charger...

Beautiful Shelby. What’s the story with the NSX? 👀

I agree, I've been boosted since 16k miles and keeping the oil topped off has been one of the keys to longevity. One thing to note, my oil burn has always been minimal during an oil change cycle <1 qt. (depending on how aggressive I drive), but noticed its been increasing approx 75% into the...

Lift the vehicle to get the wheel off of the ground and start moving the wheel in different directions (not in a spinning motion). If there’s any play with the wheel bolted to the vehicle, the bearing is shot. One of my rears went out, so I replaced them all. I didn’t feel a difference in ride...

My rule of thumb was based off of Drag Mode, which won’t allow you to select until you reach 190°F. I don’t select drag mode, but used that temp for my shift rule. So I stay idled on a cold start until 130°F, I go about my way and keep shifts below 3000 rpm until I reach 190°F. Then it’s game...

Not quite, Gen 1 here closing in on 70k. Replaced the Magnaride shocks/struts in 2022, had 1 leaking on me. Replaced both rear wheel bearings in Jan-2023. Had her up in the air working on the suspension and noticed a wobble when installing the driver side wheel. Install wasn’t terrible.

I had the same thought process as OP, no drag racing from a dig, only roll races to hopefully have some longevity. I supercharged her with supporting mods, original motor, factory internals (minus forged OPG + CS), dyno’d low 800 whp on pump 93. Install done at 16k miles and currently sitting at...

It’s definitely a tight tolerance when installing the diff back into the diff bushings. I installed the hardcore bushing kit, diff bolt upgrade and support bracket which made it even worse haha. I had to get all 4 bolts threaded into the diff little by little all the way around. Nothing is...

Correct, that’s what I have. Everything fit perfect on the GT350. Closest shot I had on my phone is below. A Shelby buddy of mine added the SPE brackets and the quality was very nice as well.

The GT350 definitely felt heavy when I first drove it, but I knew I’d find a way to shed the weight to make it more enjoyable. With the additional of the Whipple and the weight loss, it’s so much more fun to drive. The lighter wheels made the most noticeable difference.

Thank you for the kind words. This is a street driven vehicle and modded for my personal enjoyment, modding the Shelby keeps me sane Lol. I have not had the vehicle weighed with all of the modifications, but wouldn’t be a terrible idea to have it done out of curiosity. Let me make some calls...

If you need more, I went Steeda tubular front K-member and Mike Maier lightweight tubular front control arms. I have to look for my book of weight savings but I believe it was approx 30 - 35 lbs removed for the k-member and another 10 lbs shaved from the control arms alone. I installed Steeda’s...

An Antigravity battery saves lots of weight up front for not too much money. Grab titanium lug nuts with the light wheels to remove more rotating mass. Lighter front and rear crash bar, I went BMR on this. Rear seat delete, remove seat belts too. MMR billet water pump pulley, Steeda billet...

Exactly what type of battery is on the vehicle? I had these types of voltage issues when I installed an aftermarket battery with a “restart” (jumpstart) feature that was not playing nice. Once I removed it for one without the feature, the car has been running normal.

I installed the Steeda front plates and their rear camber arms and tow links. I’ve performed a couple of 4-wheel alignments (changed aftermarket springs twice) and adjustments were simple and effective. No clunks or NVH to date.

I had some TB codes thrown shortly after the Whipple install, and again after a new TB was sent to me from Whipple. It ended up being the TB extension harness. I've had to change out the harness twice over the passed 3 or 4 years I've had it installed. Very simple fix, but can get frustrating...

I went with a FatHouse tank. Well made, no issues. Added a Ford Performance badge for visual appeal.