BMR vs. Steeda handling upgrades

[samir]

I’ve got a 2020 GT350 (handling package) and I’m running E85. I want to try and solve the tramlining and wheel hop with some upgrades. I drive my car mostly street (so don’t want to much added NVH) but once spring roles around will do track days once a month.

I really want to stick with one manufacturer so debating on BMR vs. Steeda. I’ve read all about both and know they’re both awesome and I can’t go wrong either way. With Steeda I feel like there are more options and I can also have the Subframe Support Braces and the Jacking Rails which would be nice. I’ve scoured this forum looking for answers and still don’t know what do to so I’m sorry if any of this is redundant!

I don’t want to do too much and regret anything. I’ve heard of many people doing a lot of mods and then regretting them and then reversing them. I also realize a lot of these parts make the Mustang (non Shelby) handle better, but the GT350 already handles awesome. Here’s the list of things I’m debating on (again if I went all in on one manufacturer):

BMR TCA048 - Vertical Links, Polyurethane Bushings
BMR CB010 - Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit, Level 1
BMR CB007H 2-Point Front Subframe Brace
BMR CB005H Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
BMR SCB766 Rear Cradle Alignment Bushings - £25. Great compliment to the CB005H.
BMR CJR002 Chassis Jacking Rail


Steeda Ultralite 2-Point G-Trac Brace (2015-2020) Product ID: 555 5533
Steeda Full-Length, Ultra-Lite, and Low-Profile Chassis Jacking Rails (2015-2020) Product ID: 555 5212
Steeda Billet Aluminum Vertical Links with Polyurethane Bushings All (2015-2020) Product ID: 555 4129
Steeda Adjustable Rear Toe Links (2015-2020 All) Product ID: 555 4120
Steeda 'Stop the Hop' Enthusiast Kit (2015-2020)
Kit Includes:

• 555-5754 - Steeda IRS Subframe Support Braces
• 555-4437 - Steeda IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
• 555-4438 - Steeda IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
• 555-4117 - Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings

Add-ons: Steeda Adjustable Differential Bushing Insert System - Urethane

I’ll admit some of these parts I have a rough idea on the benefits but not full blown mechanic knowledge here.
Appreciate anyone’s advice on this.

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[tj@steeda]

Hello Samir,

First & foremost - would love to get extra points for being the first to respond

I will let others weigh in ... but on the track, at the strip, in the showroom - our parts are a great option. Designed, engineered, manufactured, tested & backed by Steeda is what we are known for.

I can be reached at [email protected] if I can help assist with any questions you have or if I can help provide bulk pricing ... but here is a little bit about Steeda & our manufacturing process:

 

[MandoGt350R]

Don’t forget the Steeda road race K-member and motor mounts. Lighter is better.

 

[honeybadger]

Where are you getting wheel hop? I've not experienced it. I've heard others complain about it on the drag strip, but I'd be shocked to hear you're getting it on the street/road course.

As far as tramlining, the best first step is to get a proper alignment. Ford doesn't due a great job with the alignment from the factory and many cars have excessive toe out that wears down the inside shoulder and results in tramlining. After that, tires will make a big difference. A more street friendly tire will make it go away. There's not much you can do to fight it outside of those, though. The tires are just too big and sticky for the geometry of the S550.

In regards to the two companies you've listed, IMHO BMR is more robust and more well-thought out. From what I've seen, BMR designs their parts to upon the offers currently in market or solve race car problems. Whereas Steeda is typically first to market with parts for new models and focuses more on innovation. Given my heavy road course use, I personally prefer the BMR stuff.

 

[ShatterPoints]

Where are you getting wheel hop? I've not experienced it. I've heard others complain about it on the drag strip, but I'd be shocked to hear you're getting it on the street/road course.

As far as tramlining, the best first step is to get a proper alignment. Ford doesn't due a great job with the alignment from the factory and many cars have excessive toe out that wears down the inside shoulder and results in tramlining. After that, tires will make a big difference. A more street friendly tire will make it go away. There's not much you can do to fight it outside of those, though. The tires are just too big and sticky for the geometry of the S550.

In regards to the two companies you've listed, IMHO BMR is more robust and more well-thought out. From what I've seen, BMR designs their parts to upon the offers currently in market or solve race car problems. Whereas Steeda is typically first to market with parts for new models and focuses more on innovation. Given my heavy road course use, I personally prefer the BMR stuff.

I get wheel hop at low speeds with large steering angles with anything beyond very light throttle. I also second your opinion regarding BMR. It's not that steeda is bad, they just target a different use case / performance profile.

 

[460Fred]

I get wheel hop at low speeds with large steering angles with anything beyond very light throttle. I also second your opinion regarding BMR. It's not that steeda is bad, they just target a different use case / performance profile.

Wow, please expound. I’ve never experienced this.

 

[samir]

I get wheel hop on most shifts when going WOT. Noticed it more with the slightly more HP on E85 too

 

[alan0614]

After that, tires will make a big difference. A more street friendly tire will make it go away. There's not much you can do to fight it outside of those, though. The tires are just too big and sticky for the geometry of the S550.

I put Nitto 555 G2's on when I changed wheels and tramlining disappeared.

 

[tj@steeda]

Understand these are just opinions above ... but let me help add some color to the conversation.

Steeda is one of the only companies that actually races ... what we sell - there isn't a weekend that goes by that we aren't taking our test cars to the track & pushing our parts to the limit. We have several in-house vehicles that are geared towards HPDE, Auto-X, the Drag Strip, etc.

We aren't always first to market ... but when we are, it's because of our investment in the R & D - when new models come out, we spend countless hours identifying weak points & making them better. We take pride in manufacturing in the U.S.A. & designing parts that won't precipitate damage to the end-user ... additionally, our parts are backed by a lifetime warranty.

Plenty of road-racers, weekend enthusiasts & the fastest drag cars choose Steeda ... because they know the products will perform as intended:

Here is a great article on some of the times we have been turning:

https://www.steeda.com/september-racing-update

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-Drive...ec-Iron-2019-NASA-Championships_ep_109-1.html

https://www.steeda.com/nasa-time-trials-sebring-august-2020

 

[Champale]

Very curious about wheel hop at low speed/large steering angles/light throttle . . . doesn't seem like that is a condition that would cause what people would call "wheel hop".

OP - do you think maybe you might just be feeling the Torsen differential at work?

 

[honeybadger]

I get wheel hop on most shifts when going WOT. Noticed it more with the slightly more HP on E85 too

This is likely due to cold non-R cup2s, IMHO. But you could help improve it with a bit of subframe stiffening. Two ways to do this - braces/lockouts or bushings/bearings. I prefer the latter as I think braces are a bit of a band aid. They add a bit of weight (admittedly not much) and aren't truly fixing the problem (deflection in the bushings themselves).

I run full tilt boogie spherical bearings/solid bushings in my IRS and it's a phenomenal upgrade. Tons of feedback from the rear and no give on the track. Very little NVH overall as well (diff bushings are stock).

 

[galaxy]

This is likely due to cold non-R cup2s, IMHO. But you could help improve it with a bit of subframe stiffening. Two ways to do this - braces/lockouts or bushings/bearings. I prefer the latter as I think braces are a bit of a band aid. They add a bit of weight (admittedly not much) and aren't truly fixing the problem (deflection in the bushings themselves).

I run full tilt boogie spherical bearings/solid bushings in my IRS and it's a phenomenal upgrade. Tons of feedback from the rear and no give on the track. Very little NVH overall as well (diff bushings are stock).

Aren't some/most of those bushings and such a RPITA to change?

 

[honeybadger]

Aren't some/most of those bushings and such a RPITA to change?

Yep. That's why the braces are so popular

 

[Kobi Addiction]

I personally prefer Steeda due to them actually proving their parts on the race track. Anytime I have questions, their customer service always has time to chat and work with me......I've never had a bad transaction with them. I have a long list of their parts, and they are very robust with no fitment or quality issues.

The few BMR components I purchased have been great for me as well. I do choose them second when Steeda doesn't have a viable option. Just my opinion, gents.

Steeda Installed Components:
Magnaride Sport Springs
Front Camber Plates
Drag 28.5mm Rear Sway Bar
Adjustable Sway Bar End Links
Adjustable Rear Toe Links
Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Billet 12mm Shock Mounts
IRS Subframe Support Braces
Hardcore Subframe Bushings
Hardcore Differential Bushings
Hardcore Differential Support Brace
Threaded Differential 12.9 Grade Bolt Upgrade
Road Race K-member (Currently installing)
Adjustable HD Engine Mounts (Currently Installing)
Jacking Rails (Modified)

BMR Installed Components:
Driveshaft Safety Loop
Front Bumper Support
Rear Bumper Support
4-Point Front Subframe Chassis Brace (Removing for Steeda Road Race K-member)

With the addition of the hardcore solid bushings, I no longer need their IRS support braces. I just haven't removed them yet

 

[galaxy]

@Kobi Addiction

-What was your decision process for the sport springs over the dual rate ultimate springs?

-Steeda site says the billet shock mounts are only for non-magneride cars?

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