Jeezzz. Going out of your way to make someones comment absolute? He could have easily meant most of his cars life...or most of his car wrenching life..anything. Try applying a little positivity instead of working hard to interpret things in the worst light possible.
So if the number of years he used BMR was all you took exception with, then you agree with:
Finished the stainless jacking rails
I went for (with my reasons) :
Overall I am very happy with them and they offer some benefits (to me) compared to the off the shelf offerings – They are sized exactly as I wanted, they should outlast the car and cost me £116 all in (including some spare plugs etc) compared to circa £140 / £175 rrp (+ postage / UK prices) for mild steel offerings from the big names
- 304 stainless (good enough for under the car – no issues with scratching / rusting etc).
- 50 x 30mm section (I wanted them a little lower than the pinch welds).
- 3mm wall section (I didn’t want to crimp or dent them).
- 5mm offset for the front holes (to allow for the offset in the frame mounts).
- 16mm small holes (good wiggle room around the M10’s – still easily covered by the 28mm captive washers.
- 30mm big holes (to accept the 28mm captive washers / easy size to get blanking plugs).
- 3mm mounting plates riveted to the underside (no need to trim seam sealer / some air space between the frame / 8mm overall protection for the pinch weld).
- Stainless rivet’s (just to hold the mounting plates in position relative to the rail during fitment / no chance of electrolytic corrosion with ally rivet’s).
- Plastic end plugs and hole plugs just to keep the stones out of them.
- 5mm drain holes at each end of the rail positioned on the outer / lower edges.
- Both rails are the same length and extended a little at the front.
- Rails are sized to work with the Steeda IRS braces (which are now coming up on the jobs list).
Final pictures :
Stainless laser cut pads :
Pads drilled through and countersunk for stainless rivets :
Pads mounted, original paper templates behind :
Ground the internal tubing weld flat where the bolts / washer will clamp :
All done :
I have since flushed them through to rid them of debris and give them a scrub up with a 3M pad. They just need the end caps banging in and then bolting under the car, hopefully this weekend if the bolts arrive in time from Ford …
WD
I’m pretty sure I have the wall thickness of rails from the big two and I defo have the hole positions etc for anyone interested in making their ownJacking rails fitted - with a sigh of relief that all the measurements and marking out were OK so I didn’t need to get the die grinder out ... lol
From front to back, the frame rails holes are now used for :
Covered the pads in waxoyl before fitment :
- 1 to 4 = Jacking rails.
- 5 & 6 = IRS braces (yet to be fitted).
- 7 = Spare (supplied empty from ford - now with a OE bolt blanking it off).
Reused the OE bolts for the rails. Loctite 243 on the threads. Supertrol on the heads. Torqued them to 45 lbft (New OE bolts for the IRS braces and to blank the last set of frame holes) :
Protection for the pinch welds is about 8mm which is exactly what I was after :
All done, I should have about a 10mm gap from the end of the rail cap to the start of the IRS brace (once they get fitted) :
WD
Unfortunately you are reading into what I wrote. I neither endorsed nor derided BMR's product. It was not what I chose to purchase. And, I will not comment on a product that I have no personal experience with.
Let's not split hairs here boys and girls. I never said I had BMR Jacking rails most of my life. What I said was I have used their products MOST of my life. Thanks to Hoosier Daddy for the clarification.
Possibly he was thinking of B&M, now part of Holley? I did some research before I bought the BMR rails and think they are of superior quality.
Pathetic ain't it, put some of these bout & girls in a room with 2 ball bearings.19 pages and counting about some tubing and some tabs.
There’s Acceletec (CJPP brand), SR Performance and J&M as well. My only experience is with Steeda full length rails and the quality is outstanding. Have held up through several winters now. If you plan on other IRS and suspension upgrades, all the Steeda stuff works together. Same with BMR, all their stuff is designed to work together
Leave it factory.
