BBQ tick - another attempt to understand

Discussion in 'Issues, Repairs, Warranty, TSB, Recalls' started by accel, Aug 23, 2018.

  1. Faceme

    Faceme MOCJ JAPAN

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    I bought a formal rental with 10k miles. Had full inspection and liquids replaced upon purchase. Everything cleared, and more importantly it was stock. It was probably hammered but so what?? Thats not gonna cause any issues as long as it was maintained. 300 miles is nothing. You got a lemon and its gonna be a pain but you gotta get it fixed or replaced. Good luck to you.
     
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  2. D6tse

    D6tse Well-Known Member

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    Exactly..not sure why I’m getting beef over an ex demo, here’s my big question - HAS ANYONE ACTUALLY HAD THIS ISSUE FIXED? We have so many reports on here, new engines, blocks etc but the noise comes back? Has anyone actually rid the noise for good? No one seems to be saying!
     
  3. mvfjet

    mvfjet Well-Known Member

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    So just did my first oil change at 4908 miles.

    The motor was still hot AF when I drained it. 180° cylinder head temp. I put 10 quarts of Motorcraft 5w30 synthetic blend with a motorcraft filter which I filled before putting on.

    When I first cranked it up the idle was rough for a few seconds then the BBQ tick started. Cylinder head temp was 164° when I started it up so the engine was plenty warm. So I took the car on the freeway and tapped out 3rd gear a few to 7,000 rpm (which is like 110 MPH). Got gas and did some pulls followed by engine breaking on the way home. Pull in front of my house and the tick is gone. Here's videos to prove it.

    Tick


    No tick plus some slow revving.



    I'm not gonna act like I baby my car. I got 12.6 MPG on my last tank. Everytime I get on the freeway I try to at least hit 90-110 MPH then slow it down.

    The tick video isn't even as bad as it was when I first started it. I'll know for sure tomorrow on a cold start if my car is still STD free.
     
  4. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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    I've done this exact same thing with my car as well. The tick was there, so I went out and drove in 3rd gear on the highway at 3,600rpm for about 10 minutes. Got home, and the block had swelled enough to stop the piston slap. I'm quite certain that's what this tick is. To stop most of the tick during normal use, I run PUP 5w30, added 1/2 bottle Ceratec. Then, I also installed an A/C belt tension arm, which oddly helped, but that obviously doesn't help everyone.
     
  5. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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    I'm starting to think they really did build these engines to run like this. To have a tick at lower rpm would seem possibly normal, since the engine is designed to run at high rpm for quite a while without damage. The fact that they raised the red line to 7,500 this year, and also increased the diameter of the piston, I think it's possible they had to build in a little more clearance to allow for expansion due to the increase in rpm and size of the piston.

    My wonder then, is why are these guys getting metal in their filters? Maybe you just gotta run better oil. Heck I dunno.
     
  6. Faceme

    Faceme MOCJ JAPAN

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    LOL, no way they designed the engine with a tick. Fact is, dudes with ticks are encountered problems later down the line. Again, i have no tick and i run my engine hard as f&&k with mediocre castrol oil. If changin oil didnt fix it, get it fixed, especially if its noticeable. Maybe throw in some heavier oil and see
     
  7. GT Pony

    GT Pony Well-Known Member

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    I think those particular engines had some pretty messed up parts clearances, and it wouldn't have mattered what oil was used in them ... they were going to slowly self destruct.
     
  8. dtewfoster1974

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    No beef here sorry if you feel that way pal just advising, I guess the situation must be getting to you as it would me. I do not have the issue myself but if I see a solution online i'll let you know. One thing is for sure, you shouldn't be driving a Mustang around (even in a second hand car like yours) with low mileage and having to worry if the engine is going to blow or not. This should be purely about the raw driving experience. I hope that you get some good luck and Ford see sense to help you out buddie.
     
  9. D6tse

    D6tse Well-Known Member

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    Totally agree.. I don’t see much hope from ford if I’m honest, especially Over here :-/
     
  10. D6tse

    D6tse Well-Known Member

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    This is bbq tick though? Not the 2000k rpm rattle or did you have that too? Thanks
     
  11. mvfjet

    mvfjet Well-Known Member

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    First video is the tick. I have the light load rattle too while driving. That's always there. I have videos of that on my account too.

    I did have metal flakes in the oil filter. Not a ton but noticeable when you stretch out the paper. Mostly silver some copper colored flakes. I'm assuming this is normal for a new engine that has seen redline everyday since April.
     
  12. socketman

    socketman Active Member

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    Get your oil analyzed and keep records. I had mine done in canada for 25 bux took 2 weeks. No metal should be visible in your oil period. After a 3500 mile road trip i had mine analyzed and nothing was found in the oil ,still lots of life left.
     
  13. Bubba Bear

    Bubba Bear Well-Known Member

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    Are there any new 19s with the tick?
     
  14. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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    Yep. Seems to be just as common.
     
  15. DrGrabster

    DrGrabster UK Member

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    No right hand drive 18+ cars have the tick. One has a rattle, but no tick.
    Strange.
     
  16. Snakes&horses

    Snakes&horses Well-Known Member

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    Yes sir,...mine does with 199.7 miles on it so far. Hoping that while it’s off the road for winter that ford will finally figure this out and issue a tsb by spring. Fingers crossed
     
  17. Stormtroopin5.0

    Stormtroopin5.0 Active Member

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    I am in the same boat but knowing how slow Ford is to own up to issues I doubt it...
     
  18. GT Pony

    GT Pony Well-Known Member

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    A few very small aluminum flakes is normal during beak in, but not copper colored flakes as that's a sign of journal bearing (rod/crank) material.
     
  19. Furiosa GT

    Furiosa GT Well-Known Member

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    Noticed mine had it. Was sick for a couple days so car just sat in garage. Went out to cold start it and take video knowing it would be obvious on a cold start and it wasn't there anymore. Changed oil just in case. Still not there but I'm not holding my breath that it wont come back. I am honestly wondering if almost everyone has this and they are just not noticing it. I'm not saying it's normal but I would find it hard to believe it's not widespread. The one time I did notice it it went away after engine warmed up. I can probably deal with it so long as it goes away once warm. Kinda reminds me of my LS1 days were those engines would piston slap until warm and use oil but still made great power and lasted a long time. I'm just hoping Ford has a definite fix before I want to add some power to this car. What good is it to replace a brand new short block with another one if it's just going to do the same thing. Especially if your without your car for 2 months or more. I have heard horror stories here and elsewhere of how long this whole process is taking.
     
  20. TheLion

    TheLion Well-Known Member

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    2nd Generation 5.0 was built to revv out to 7500 as well. Uses mass production{ized} Boss 302 rotating assembly. 13mm valve lift, 300 lbs valve springs, powder forged rods, a cast version of the cnc ported 302 heads (flows just as well, but slightly altered to make it a castable design). The big difference in the 3rd generation is the addition of P/DI injection and wire arc plasma transfer spay in cylinder liners first used in the voodoo 5.2 and a higher flowing intake manifold to match.

    Also I have not seen ANYONE mention the HPFP. DI injectors require 2000 psi fuel rail pressure unlike Port injectors that are in the 80 to 100 psi range. HPFP's are NOISY. They have an almost erratic knock sound when revving down or up. Back when I had my Ecoboost I actually thought something was wrong with the engine at first until I realized what it was. It became especially noticeable with after market shifters because the solid steel shifter would act like a tuning fork.

    So not all "ticking" some people are reporting is actual issues. And yes, the ticking would get less when things got hot in the ecoboost because the HPFP tolerance would tighten up like everything else. It was an interesting creature. But boy don't miss the dead top end. Even with the Power Pack, it just didn't compare to modern V8's.
     
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