Battery Terminal connections

[AngelDeath]

Greets all,

I picked up a battery tender which I was going add but I wanted to keep the hood closed without making contact to the hood. Attached is the picture with the bolt circled and wanted to know could I connect it to this screw, or does this have no contact to the battery to charge? (Negative circled to show screw I'm speaking about for the postive side)

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[2020GT500]

Greets all,

I picked up a battery tender which I was going add but I wanted to keep the hood closed without making contact to the hood. Attached is the picture with the bolt circled and wanted to know could I connect it to this screw, or does this have no contact to the battery to charge? (Negative circled to show screw I'm speaking about for the postive side)

There is a thread here somewhere on the subject...You need to take the neg from the strut tower to bypass the cars intelligent battery software per the owners manual supplement.

 

[AngelDeath]

There is a thread here somewhere on the subject...You need to take the neg from the strut tower to bypass the cars intelligent battery software per the owners manual supplement.

Thanks, I know of that thread and couldn't find it, but yet that does not answer the question I asked.

 

[Snoopy49]

Thanks, I know of that thread and couldn't find it, but yet that does not answer the question I asked.

Your good to go on the positive side.

 

[2020GT500]

Thanks, I know of that thread and couldn't find it, but yet that does not answer the question I asked.

Sorry...Yes good to go on the positive side.

 

[BeastAR]

I believe you could. Hit a volt meter to the positive and negative studs to see if you get voltage across it. But that nut is for loosening and tightening the clamps to the battery terminals.


Any reason you don't want to hook the battery charger to the positive of the fuse box and negative to the shock/strut tower ground?

 

[AngelDeath]

I believe you could. Hit a volt meter to the positive and negative studs to see if you get voltage across it. But that nut is for loosening and tightening the clamps to the battery terminals.


Any reason you don't want to hook the battery charger to the positive of the fuse box and negative to the shock/strut tower ground?

Partly because in the event it pops off I dont need that touching anything nearby where as in the battery box it has no place else to make contact with as I plan to keep the cover of the battery box on top as a "shield". I'll try the volt meter, but it seems bease on the two replies prior, especially Earl, that little bolt conducts electricity unless my question was still mis-understood.

 

[AngelDeath]

Well found the battery thread and it seems both warpath and gtccobra use the nuts I was planning to use so it seems they do conduct electricity. And away we go

 

[BeastAR]

Interesting.... Revisited the thread, and think I'm going to change my setup.

So you will be connecting to both positive and negative of the battery terminals? I think I'm looking to connect to the battery positive and keep the negative at the shock/strut tower ground.

 

[AngelDeath]

Interesting.... Revisited the thread, and think I'm going to change my setup.

So you will be connecting to both positive and negative of the battery terminals? I think I'm looking to connect to the battery positive and keep the negative at the shock/strut tower ground.

My original thought is to connect to both terminals because the cover would shield possible contact of the spring clamp. But I am also considering using the strut mount as well. I understand using the neg terminal I hear could screw up the battery monitor of the car, but I have also heard by a couple that it didnt affect it, so it will be a toss up. My main concern was making sure those smaller nuts on the side conducted electrical contact.

 

[RapidResponder]

Mr. Death,

Allow me to share my experience. First, I have had several Battery Tenders over the years but they typically are not smart and are designed with minimal amperage which could take a week or more to charge a drained battery. This may trickle-charge my off-road truck or boat battery, but in no way manages or conditions the battery keeping it fresh.

With the Shelby, I went with the CTEK MXS 5.0 which is a super smart 4.3a that also works with my other Absorbed Glass-Mat (AGM) batteries batteries and features advances features such as a float/pulse maintenance system and reconditioning settings. (Hey, my Ford Bronco battery is a Odyssey AGM!).

What I really liked, including the cool wall mount, was the fact that I can directly attach the supplied ring terminals before the battery which have no possibility of detaching, as opposed tot he Spring Clamps which are used for stand alone batteries and dumb battery management systems.

I placed the Positive Ring Terminal directly on a hot post under the fuse panel cover. You can see the hot wire running forward (or to the left) and securely held with the terminal nut.

I then connected the Ground Wire to an existing Ground Post located the Passenger's Side Shock Tower. Any chassis, body or block ground will do as long as it keep the Battery Management System in the loop. My Ring Connectors included a pigtail connector which is easily disconnected from the CTEK whenever I car to drive. Look for the orange connector at the lower left of the photo.

So, I then wanted to connect the CTEK, close the hood and cover the car. I noted that there is a hood gasket that runs at the windshield across the center and Driver's Side, but was open at the Passenger Side where my permanent charger/maintainer connections were made. I bought a couple of CTEK extensions and simply run the wires between the hood and windshield, across and under both wiper blades, over the Driver's Side Mirror and then down under a carpet to the the CTEK Charger.

My hood is now closed, the car is locked, the cover is on and the CTEK is connected.

All was good until two weeks later my Ford Pass gave me the following message while I was out of State:

Yes, this was concerning. I pondered my CTEK Installation and researched for afar. I determined that the car the Battery Management System (BMS) will place the car into a battery preservation mode (Deep Sleep) when either the car has not been started for two weeks or the battery drops to less than 9.5v. What is Deep Sleep? My Ford Pass Application Message simply states that "Connectivetivity Is Temporarily Unavailable". This meaning my Ford Pass Application.

Now here is the good part... Five weeks later, I needed to confirm what was happening. I disconnected the CTEK (which was in full Pulse Mode at the time) and tested the battery with a DVOM to find a full 14.8v! I hopped inside and went to ACC mode to find NO MESSAGES and ALL FUNCTIONS and MEMORY INTACT.

Clearly my car was maintaining more than 9.5v, but no it had not been started for more than two weeks. My guess was that using the fuse panel 12v+ and body 12v- that I had not bypassed the voltage monitoring system and simply had not started my car for the designated period of time. If I had connected straight to the battery, my guess is that the BSM would have shut down more systems and triggered dash panel messages.

In summary, I think the only thing I am encountering is a lack of starting cycles when out of town. The BMS is doing it's thing by participating in the charging/monitoring process and I am convinced that the CTEK is the smartest charger/maintainer that I have ever used.

I am sure there is a work around for the Starting Cycle issue, but is it really a problem? The car is happy. The battery is happy. Only my Ford Pass is unhappy.


RR

 

[StangTime]

Here's how I did mine https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...to-your-s550-mustang-today.11109/post-3087711 but I have my + connected to the recessed terminal (closest to the battery). Seems to work just fine. Which one is correct? EDIT: From other posts I have read, the recessed terminal is the one the computer reads to determine battery charge. This line has a current sensor on it. So it may take up to 8 hours for the BCM to determine the battery charge level if another connection method is done.

 

[WD Pro]

Greets all,

I picked up a battery tender which I was going add but I wanted to keep the hood closed without making contact to the hood. Attached is the picture with the bolt circled and wanted to know could I connect it to this screw, or does this have no contact to the battery to charge? (Negative circled to show screw I'm speaking about for the postive side)

Ignoring all the discussions on where to actually connect the charger, yes, you can get a good electrical connection from that position

It can be a bit tricky to get that nut off, just use your finger on the underside and keep the stud in its uppermost position whilst the nut is unscrewed / removed

WD

 

[Venom_20]

In summary, I think the only thing I am encountering is a lack of starting cycles when out of town. The BMS is doing it's thing by participating in the charging/monitoring process and I am convinced that the CTEK is the smartest charger/maintainer that I have ever used.

I have a CTEK as well, the only difference is I have my positive lead going to the positive of the battery and I got the same message you did. As far as I can tell no settings or memory has been lost.

 

[RasJeremy]

As @WD Pro and @Venom_20 I also have the charger/tender directly on the positive/negative pole off my battery and is has been tending since it came off the road November 17th.
No memory has been lost here either.

If you don't hear from me by May 1st it is because my car blew up when firing it up after being stored away during winter

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