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Need New Battery......................

rp930

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No trouble at all. Just takes longer. :).
I maintain 3 auto battery’s with maintainers that are 1-1.75A.

If I want a charge under 12 hours, I put my 5A maintainer/charger on it.

If I want to start or charge it in 30 min, I throw my 10/20/30A charger on it.

Most newer maintainers all use the same type of boards and circuitry. You can get quite a few maintainer models out there for 50% less than a branded “CTEK/Ford” model…..

NOCO makes amazing products that easily compete side by side with “CTEK” brand products. The NOVO Genius 5, and 10 are all anyone would need. One of each :).
You are certainly deeper into than I am. I just use this because it works and it’s reliable.
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Cory S

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kcobra

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Hello Fellow Shelby Owners; I have a 2020 Shelby GT 500 with a totally dead battery. Just need your advice. What is the absolute best and most long lasting battery to replace the factory battery?? On my current battery it says 590 Amps. What is the strongest and best replacement for it??
With the alarms and exhaust valves cycling, it's important that if you don't run these often, to put a tender on once and a while and if in storage, disconnect the negative.
 

Rapid Red

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To add, I've left the ignition on in one of my cars, not overnight but for a few days. The Battery Tender charged the battery just fine.

Have used this product constantly for many years without a hitch.
 
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ChuckXX

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With the alarms and exhaust valves cycling, it's important that if you don't run these often, to put a tender on once and a while and if in storage, disconnect the negative.
I thought the negative should be connected to a piece of steel in close proximity to the battery while the Red clamp is connected to the positive post on the battery itself.
 

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rp930

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ChuckXX

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Chassis ground not battery ground. Yes I know this is an F150 bulletin but it applies here as well.
https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...828-battery-charging-bms-battery-charging.pdf
Wish I knew how to post a photo on this site of my engine bay but it looks to be very identical to the photo you posted of yours. Not sure what you mean by the chassis ground vs the battery ground. Where you drew your circle there's about 4 or 5 bolts so I'm thinking of connecting the "black claws" to one of them. ????
 

rp930

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Wish I knew how to post a photo on this site of my engine bay but it looks to be very identical to the photo you posted of yours. Not sure what you mean by the chassis ground vs the battery ground. Where you drew your circle there's about 4 or 5 bolts so I'm thinking of connecting the "black claws" to one of them. ????
Any one of those is fine. Just not directly to the battery. That way the Battery Management System “sees” what is going on. You are over thinking this.
 
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ChuckXX

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Any one of those is fine. Just not directly to the battery. That way the Battery Management System “sees” what is going on. You are over thinking this.
OK Thank You very much. I want you to know that I appreciate all this great information. I went for a drive yesterday with my new Ford Performance battery and everything went well. No problems. Thank You again.
 

barron64

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Go to youtube and search "Project Farm automotive battery test". This guy is an independent tester/evaluator who tests all kinds of tools, products etc. Great in depth evaluation of quite a selection of auto batteries. You will learn a lot from this guy on car batteries.

As for a charger, I use a Neco 10amp and it does a great job.
 

kcobra

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I've been storing my cars during wintertime in a semi-heated garage. Add stable to gas, pu.p tires up to 45 psi, disconnect ground and good to go. Never ever had batteries not last. My 21 500 has been good 2 yrs in a row and I believe she should last, at least, another 3-5 yrs. I tend her a couple times during the summer if I don't use her for a few weeks though.
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