protraxduner
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Started my battery relocation to the trunk this weekend. Pretty straight forward as it has been done before. WatsonRacing has kit and decent instructions for those looking to do this, worth taking a look at. I however did this all custom and I think better.
Just to be CLEAR, I did this for 2 reasons: 1. needed power for my sub amp, 2. Cleaner engine bay cosmetics. Any benefits outside of this are gravy. Figured if I am running a power wire for amp might as well upsize the cable and move the battery. Most people do this for weight distribution, but I would say a lightweight lithium battery in the stock location would be a better choice, albeit more expensive choice, and doesnât help with engine bay cleanup.
I bought an optima size 35 battery 720 cca, only to be able to mount it on its side, to be able to have the spare tire cover sit flush. I will also mount my Kicker 1600.1 amp next to it. I plan to mount this in the rearward portion of the tire well, as I may put a ice tank later, so could be using 95% of the wellâŠ.all stealth looking with trunk open. Not a huge optima fan but for the money and versatility of mounting I chose it, lately using odyssey batteries which are little more expensive. And lithiums havenât came down yet in price to make them affordable IMO.
Stock Battery Weight = 32lbs 0oz 590cca
Optima Battery Weight = 32lbs 2.5oz 720cca
Stock Battery tray and mount = 3lbs 11.5oz
Battery Cable ~.5 lbs per foot Size 2/0 00 2886 strands OFC OD .59 (estimating about 15ft)
Started by removing the battery and battery tray/box. I wrapped factory cables with height shield that I just happened to have for another project. Not sure if this is necessary but canât hurt. I then cut a ~1inch slot in the metal that contains that battery corner. This will allow the cables to go under the strut tower brace and into the battery compartment area. I then cut and bend up a small abs bracket to hold the âjumperâ posts. This isnât really necessary to have these posts but was a good place to tie in the rear power cable and would work for jumping the car. The post are closer than I would have liked but this is where the factory cables fell. The cables could be returned to factory location if necessary. This also allowed me to retain the battery monitor sensors.
There is a hole in the bottom of the battery area that I drilled out to 1â and put a rubber grommet and fed the 00 battery cable thru. I have a hydraulic battery terminal crimper which makes ends nice, neat and tight. Have to remove fender line partially to access firewall grommet. Cut the nipple off the firewall grommet and fed the cable through. Ran the cable down the kick panel and down rocker. Area just beside the seat brace under the interior rocker cover is very tight but works. I only made it to the rear seat before I quit for the weekend.
Next I will be welding up a battery tray and amp holder for the tire well. Hoping something simple that uses the spare tire nut to secure with another mount or 2. Goal is to open the trunk and for it to be oblivious there is a bettery and amp in the trunk. I think all said and done I will likely have added 10lbs but moved 32lbs from high in the hood to low in the trunk.
I also will have to do something with the battery top cover to remove the 2 holes where the cables used to go, havenât quite figured out how I will do this and make it look good/factory looking. I will update this post as I finish the rear trunk area.
Just to be CLEAR, I did this for 2 reasons: 1. needed power for my sub amp, 2. Cleaner engine bay cosmetics. Any benefits outside of this are gravy. Figured if I am running a power wire for amp might as well upsize the cable and move the battery. Most people do this for weight distribution, but I would say a lightweight lithium battery in the stock location would be a better choice, albeit more expensive choice, and doesnât help with engine bay cleanup.
I bought an optima size 35 battery 720 cca, only to be able to mount it on its side, to be able to have the spare tire cover sit flush. I will also mount my Kicker 1600.1 amp next to it. I plan to mount this in the rearward portion of the tire well, as I may put a ice tank later, so could be using 95% of the wellâŠ.all stealth looking with trunk open. Not a huge optima fan but for the money and versatility of mounting I chose it, lately using odyssey batteries which are little more expensive. And lithiums havenât came down yet in price to make them affordable IMO.
Stock Battery Weight = 32lbs 0oz 590cca
Optima Battery Weight = 32lbs 2.5oz 720cca
Stock Battery tray and mount = 3lbs 11.5oz
Battery Cable ~.5 lbs per foot Size 2/0 00 2886 strands OFC OD .59 (estimating about 15ft)
Started by removing the battery and battery tray/box. I wrapped factory cables with height shield that I just happened to have for another project. Not sure if this is necessary but canât hurt. I then cut a ~1inch slot in the metal that contains that battery corner. This will allow the cables to go under the strut tower brace and into the battery compartment area. I then cut and bend up a small abs bracket to hold the âjumperâ posts. This isnât really necessary to have these posts but was a good place to tie in the rear power cable and would work for jumping the car. The post are closer than I would have liked but this is where the factory cables fell. The cables could be returned to factory location if necessary. This also allowed me to retain the battery monitor sensors.
There is a hole in the bottom of the battery area that I drilled out to 1â and put a rubber grommet and fed the 00 battery cable thru. I have a hydraulic battery terminal crimper which makes ends nice, neat and tight. Have to remove fender line partially to access firewall grommet. Cut the nipple off the firewall grommet and fed the cable through. Ran the cable down the kick panel and down rocker. Area just beside the seat brace under the interior rocker cover is very tight but works. I only made it to the rear seat before I quit for the weekend.
Next I will be welding up a battery tray and amp holder for the tire well. Hoping something simple that uses the spare tire nut to secure with another mount or 2. Goal is to open the trunk and for it to be oblivious there is a bettery and amp in the trunk. I think all said and done I will likely have added 10lbs but moved 32lbs from high in the hood to low in the trunk.
I also will have to do something with the battery top cover to remove the 2 holes where the cables used to go, havenât quite figured out how I will do this and make it look good/factory looking. I will update this post as I finish the rear trunk area.
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