Can you post a photo of where you connect the negative black connection please???
It goes to the bolt where the battery ground is routed to on the forward side of the front passenger shock mount. Follow the negative cable from the battery and you’ll run right into it. The wire passes through a donut shaped “Hall effect” sensor.
A "BIG THANK YOU" goes out to you rp920. And also a big thank you to everyone. Just got my new Ford battery installed a few minutes ago. The only one they had was a Ford Performance battery. Even if it only lasts 2 years Iam ok with that. I meant rp930. Fingers get too much of a hurry.I have a disconnect, available from CTEK, installed. You can see where I connected the negative.
It's best to remove the negative cable from the battery, before starting any of this. Dropping a tool at the wrong moment can short something out, causing damage to you or the car. When connecting back up, the car is going to make all kinds of weird noises, several times, as it performs self-checks. Perform a BMS reset when done.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bms-reset-no-tools-required.151602/
Yesterday, I attached my Ford Performance battery tender for the first time, to check it out. Using alligator clamps and leaving the hood up might be alright for the weekend, but it wasn't going to work long-term. I began eyeing the fuse block, another pigtail I had with the kit and these threads.
Thank You for the insight and the inspiration. Below are two options I'm playing with. Maybe these ideas and others might help you.
Cowl: the advantage of the cowl is I can tuck it under the hood and take it out as needed. To a passerby, it's almost invisible. The disadvantage is the hood closes snug and its a water area. The cable I fabricated is sealed with heat shrink, but still.
Front: the advantage of the front is all the wiring under the hood stays away from water, sharp edges or rubbing. But the plug poking out isn't very esthetically pleasing. I considered the grill, but it's a heat area and snug fit, for best airflow. If I Sharpie out the orange it will probably be less obvious.
For now, the front headlight area.
The advantages to either solution are not having to pop the hood, being able to hock up in moments and having a visual on the tender at any time.
I just got my CTEK MXS 5.0 Battery Charger today from Amazon. Now I'm ready to go!!! Just one last question. As long as I find a piece of "steel" close to the battery just hook up the Black Negative to that--correct??? I assume it doesn't have to be that exact piece. Lets just say I hooked it up to that bolt just to the upper left of that. The reason Iam asking if the length of the cords are not all that long. Sorry, for being so anal about it. I want you to know I appreciate your input and everybody's for that matter. I ended up going with a Ford Performance battery as when I called the Ford Dealership thats all they had. I live here in Omaha.I have a disconnect, available from CTEK, installed. You can see where I connected the negative.
You are incorrect I have used a a battery tender for my 00r for 25 years never any issues plus my 94 Lightning and GT500.
I stand corrected but it will have trouble bringing a low battery up. Strictly a maintainer. I’m happy with the CTEK charging strategy.You are incorrect I have used a a battery tender for my 00r for 25 years never any issues plus my 94 Lightning and GT500.
No trouble at all. Just takes longer.
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