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2017 gt350 engine failure

Voodooo

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Here's the thing.
The OPGs are cast not billet. Some people keep saying they are billet, they are not BILLET!
This is not the first set of opg's to fail. I've talked to Tom at ford performance yesterday for an hour on the phone about opg's, the hose issues, and a few other things. These guys at ford performance are good guys, but when it comes to the GT350 and the voodoo they are totally clueless. I knew long ago the opg's were not billet, hellion proved this as have others that had stock gears fail. But FP says not one single car has had a OPG or hose fail. REALLY?!?!?! Really ford performance?
He also said the hose fix is an easy one, his exact words were and I quote......"just contact your local dealer and they will get you in and swap out the lines free of charge" he also said these lines have not let loose just slight seepage. BULLSHIT!
I told Tom that the lines are not even available yet and that I received my notice late October and I just talked to my service manager and parts manager Tuesday. Both of whom I deal with on a weekly to monthly basis. I have it set up that when the hoses do become available they will be given to me so I can install them myself.
Back on subject:
Ford performance denies any OPG failures.
Ford performance denies any hose failures.
Ford performance denies any engine failures from either of the above.
More lies and more fake news. Members of this forum proven this already. I mentioned this to him and I understand that he may be unaware of what's really going on, but just so everyone knows, the opg's are not billet, and the hoses are still not available.
Both of which I find unacceptable.
When I asked ford performance about the new suspension springs for the GT350 all they know is the part number. Well I keep getting the exact same answer. Call back in another week. When I asked if the springs are made by Eibach he didn't know, but let's assume they are. The Eibach springs lower the car .7 rear and .9 front. I'll pass and keep my R springs. I don't want to lover my car, and I want to keep it a handling car.
Moral of the story,
I wish fords own people were more informed on what they sell and offer.
And last thing, I agree that the engine oil temps should be up to operating temps before getting into the RPM's but even if the temps are cold the opg's still shouldn't fail. It would of saved a lot of peace of mind to used billet gears. Dumb that they didn't if you ask me.
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Voodooo

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Hack

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I wouldn't be terribly surprised if they put out a TSB with a tune that brings the limiter down from 8000rpm to something more sane like 5000rpm when the oil isn't up to temperature. I think this is, what, at least the second if not third report on this forum of a likely OPG failure from not being warmed up.
Maybe - I'm not an expert on these engines. I'm also not aware of any previous failures that are 100% confirmed as an oil pump gear failure. Could you point out where Ford confirmed it?

Great idea to block the cold air to the engine oil cooler on extremely cold days. This way the thermostat in the water lines with coolant can actually regulate things as needed. I wonder if the oil to the oil cooler has any sort of thermostatic control, as if it does blocking it would of course not be needed?
I like the idea of blocking the engine oil cooler in cold weather, but I've always been afraid I will scar up the front grill.

There's either no thermostatic control, or the control is not strong enough to allow the oil to get warm when ambient temperatures are cold. I've driven for hours at a time in below zero weather and the engine oil doesn't even get to 180 F. I have changed the oil quite often for that reason - figuring water and fuel don't get vaporized out of the oil like they should when the car is driven in cold weather.

Nobody here knows exactly what happened. I asked about oil temps, OP didn't even have it in his scan.

The cast OPG has been a known issue with this car and this engine. There have been multiple reports on this forum of blown motors due to this problem.

You should be able to start it up and not have to worry about shattering a cast part in the cold because the car uses 5W50 oil.

So if the cast OPG was the issue, is it a design failure? If not, then why so many failures from this part?

Hack, I'm asking questions. I was not pointing at the poor guy who just blew his motor with any accusation. However I think it is a bit naive to think that its ok to honk on a car in the cold (based upon the reports of blown motors because these cast OPG's).

I think my questions were appropriate based upon the story and history of this motor.
First of all: :cheers:

I agree with you that nobody here knows what happened.

I wasn't trying to accuse you of doing anything and I apologize if I came off that way. I was merely relaying my experiences that the engine oil never gets warm when it is cold outside and that these motors are not fragile and prone to failure like some tend to portray them. I drove my Coyote GTs year round and revved those engines when cold as well. They work fine in double digit below zero temperatures. Maybe I'm overly confident in the quality of my Fords and someday a Ford engine will fail on me due to something I did. It hasn't happened yet in over 30 years of driving them.

So far there hasnt been a root cause of the failure and what is your definition of "so many" in terms of failures?
:thumbsup:
 

MCarsFan

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I always believed that idling a car to warm up oil is not a good thing as it takes much longer for the oil to warm and you dont want the cold oil to circulate an engine when piston strokes are at their lowest momentum.

There was a video that I watched maybe 6-7 years ago made by BMW' M department which said its best to drive the car right away and keep the revs at 3500-4000 not more but definitely not less, so dont baby the car. That is the most effective and safest way. I always follow that every day. My old M3 which had a similar high revving engine also used a heavy 60W oil and a lot of this cold start debate went on for months in the forums back then. Now the accepted norm is what I described above.

I wouldnt rev the car to 6k rpm unless my oil temp is at least 170F. What you will notice some days is the 4k rpm driving will only get you 165-170F. For any higher you need 5500-6000rpm and so on.

My car now has 3500 miles, no issues. I also now see the oil consumption has drastically slowed down. It used to take 1/2 quart per 300 miles now after 500 miles it hasnt needed any.
 

ARS1

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That's unfortunate for sure. I've only got about 500 on mine but always make sure she's at operating temp before winding her out at all. Fingers crossed... Hope you get back on the road soon. Seems like they've calmed down a bit so maybe they've caught up on engines by now.
 

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FORDSTANGER

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Sad to hear. Good luck getting it back on the road.
 

Voodooo

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Tank

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[MENTION=28529]chase527[/MENTION], sorry to hear about your GT350. I kinda cringed when you said you got it towed so thanks for clarifying it was flatbedded. Lotsa good advice so far.

There've been several members here that have gone through the dealer replacement process. I would stongly suggest you search the forum for their threads. Some seem to have gone relatively smoothly and others not so smoothly. PM them!!!

From reading these threads you might want to:
1) Take steps to mitigate further damage to your car. Photograph everything you can. Exterior panels, engine bay, undercarriage, everything. See that they store it protectively.
2) Be a presence at the dealership. Show them what your car means to you. To the extent you can, form relationships with the managers and techs.
3) Get and document frequent updates. Keep all documentation provided.
4) Photograph, to the extent you can, the replacement process. Ask the service folks if they can too? Couldn't hurt to ask.
5) After the replacement, double check for missing hardware or things that don't jive when you compare with your before photos.

Others should be able to give you their firsthand experience...

Good luck, I hope it goes smoothly for you :cheers:
 

firestarter2

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That sucks I have worried the on cold winter days the car is actually over cooled and getting to operating temps will take a long time.
 

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THX 138

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I am your verifiable source.
ROTFL!!!! :lol::lol::lol:

The Hellion link says nothing about the stock OPG. It merely says that Hellion "upgraded" it with an aftermarket part.
 

btown93

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While I am not discounting the OPG issues in cold weather, for you guys that are using the car in those temps, the OEM tires aren't recommended below 45 degrees.
 

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Just a couple of questions here:

1) are there any billet OPG solutions yet?

2) for colder climates, couldn't the guys just use a lighter weight oil? I am aware of the 5w/50 Ford recommendation, but if you're considering changing a thermostat, you're already changing warrantable conditions.

Lighter oil is a cheaper, more beneficial solution imho.
 

Voodooo

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ROTFL!!!! :lol::lol::lol:

The Hellion link says nothing about the stock OPG. It merely says that Hellion "upgraded" it with an aftermarket part.
Why would you upgrade a billet gear?
It doesn't matter if you believe me or not. Ask ford performance. Ever hear of a failed billet gears?
 

Voodooo

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Just a couple of questions here:

1) are there any billet OPG solutions yet?

2) for colder climates, couldn't the guys just use a lighter weight oil? I am aware of the 5w/50 Ford recommendation, but if you're considering changing a thermostat, you're already changing warrantable conditions.

Lighter oil is a cheaper, more beneficial solution imho.
The gears are the same as 5.0.
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