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2017 gt350 engine failure

machsmith

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So, in all the instances it was cool oil Temps, while people are getting on it, that shattered them? I may need to get another thermostat put in, one to raise temps. I like to drive mine in 50s+ and there ain't no way oil Temps are going to get 190+ in that cool of temps. Where would be a good place to put a cover to block air flow? I'd rather just get a billet gear put in. The powdered metal/cast iron POS should never be used. Mistake all the way around IMO
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chase527

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Thanks for all the support, my only issue so far has been that ford roadside only covers 35miles of tow so I had to 150.00 out of pocket to have car towed, I live in Folsom,Ca near Elk Grove and issue occurred 54 miles away. i am going to fight for reimbursement, then get AAA for future reference.
 

machsmith

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I wouldn't be terribly surprised if they put out a TSB with a tune that brings the limiter down from 8000rpm to something more sane like 5000rpm when the oil isn't up to temperature. I think this is, what, at least the second if not third report on this forum of a likely OPG failure from not being warmed up.
Yes, this would be good. I plan on keeping this car for life.. If mine makes it to the 3rd year I'll have the OPG changed out. I'd like to be able to do this myself.
Anyone know how difficult or a procedure?
Hope the dealer takes care of you OP.
 

TDC

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Black cardboard piece zipped tied to driver's side vent. For really cold days (40's) the entire vent is taped up.
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rb92gt

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Black cardboard piece zipped tied to driver's side vent. For really cold days (40's) the entire vent is taped up.
Great idea to block the cold air to the engine oil cooler on extremely cold days. This way the thermostat in the water lines with coolant can actually regulate things as needed. I wonder if the oil to the oil cooler has any sort of thermostatic control, as if it does blocking it would of course not be needed?
 

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Tomster

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Must be nice to live in a hot climate from that standpoint. When it's cool outside the oil doesn't even get up to 190 F.



Don't worry, the failure has nothing to do with what you did. I've driven my car thousands of miles in cold temperatures with absolutely no issues. Yes I don't wind it out when it's cold outside - mostly because the tires won't hook up anyway. But the engine is built to handle it.

There was an assembly issue or a part was out of spec. I'm sure it wasn't anything you did.
Nobody here knows exactly what happened. I asked about oil temps, OP didn't even have it in his scan.

The cast OPG has been a known issue with this car and this engine. There have been multiple reports on this forum of blown motors due to this problem.

You should be able to start it up and not have to worry about shattering a cast part in the cold because the car uses 5W50 oil.

So if the cast OPG was the issue, is it a design failure? If not, then why so many failures from this part?

Hack, I'm asking questions. I was not pointing at the poor guy who just blew his motor with any accusation. However I think it is a bit naive to think that its ok to honk on a car in the cold (based upon the reports of blown motors because these cast OPG's).

I think my questions were appropriate based upon the story and history of this motor.
 
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chase527

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He's right, I should have been more conscientious with oil temp, learned my lesson.
 

krt22

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So far there hasnt been a root cause of the failure and what is your definition of "so many" in terms of failures?
 

machsmith

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Black cardboard piece zipped tied to driver's side vent. For really cold days (40's) the entire vent is taped up.
Nice!
So far I've only driven in 70 degree as the highest and my oil Temps would only get to 203 and that's when I was getting on it. Then it would quickly drop down to under 200.
So far, it seems like they want the car to run right around 200. What is the highest we want this car running, because for street driving I may just put on the cardboard and leave it there until we reach the 80s.
 

Shift

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Im sorry, what? The car was driven for just a couple of minutes, and you rev'd to 6,000+RPM? That's still a cold engine. Of course the engine is made to rev, but not when it's cold. :doh:
 

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stanglife

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Im sorry, what? The car was driven for just a couple of minutes, and you rev'd to 6,000+RPM? That's still a cold engine. Of course the engine is made to rev, but not when it's cold. :doh:

We know it's not best practice but I think we all can agree that getting on it before the engine is warm shouldn't cause catastrophic failure.
 

krt22

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We know it's not best practice but I think we all can agree that getting on it before the engine is warm shouldn't cause catastrophic failure.
Agreed. PLus we all know the fastest way to warm it up is to rev it:ninja:
 

Minn19

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Sorry OP, be prepared to be without your GT350 for around 2 months. I know from personal experience and others with similar wait times that have had engine replacements. Also, when you get your car back make sure you inspect it closely for additional damage due to the replacement.
 

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Sorry about your difficulties, hope it goes faster for you than it has for many others.
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