1st to 2nd Grind

[Hifiguy]

Anyone have a light grind when shifting quickly at or near redline from 1st to 2nd?

I was going to get my transmission checked out at the dealer, but after I did the track attack I noticed the Mach 1 they had did the same thing. I am thinking the synchro design for 1st/2nd gear is not super robust on the Mach 1.

I can get my friend to reproduce it as well on my M1, you would think it would be a bigger issue on the GT350 with the higher redline.

It is annoying as I have to hesitate a split second before putting it into 2nd to let the RPM drop a bit.

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[JetGray_Mach1]

Is it at actual audible Grind? How many miles do you have? I had a slight push back getting into the gate when cold mostly when it was new. But now with almost 5K miles it shifts like butter no matter how hard I slam it.

 

[MiamiGT350]

Is it an audible grind or does it sound like the vibration/resonance in the shifter/reverse lockout? I had to use heat shrink and rubber so I wouldn't get an annoying buzz sound at high RPM in 3rd.

If you are low miles, you likely need more break-in of the transmission and if it persists, you'll want to make sure the transmission fluid is topped off.

 

[young at heart]

Is it at actual audible Grind? How many miles do you have? I had a slight push back getting into the gate when cold mostly when it was new. But now with almost 5K miles it shifts like butter no matter how hard I slam it.

Granted I only have 271 miles but I can’t wait to get to this point!

 

[Rock50]

Not sure how to describe it, but I do have this kind of crunchy type feeling when shifting from 1st to 2nd and is most noticeable after leaving the garage in the morning. Changed the fluid to Red Line D6 and kind of still the same thing. Learning to live with it and I guess it’s a manual after all. Thinking about installing the MGW shifter, maybe it has to do with the linkage as well, although, on the 3rd to 2nd, it is not as noticeable.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Not sure how to describe it, but I do have this kind of crunchy type feeling when shifting from 1st to 2nd and is most noticeable after leaving the garage in the morning. Changed the fluid to Red Line D6 and kind of still the same thing. Learning to live with it and I guess it’s a manual after all. Thinking about installing the MGW shifter, maybe it has to do with the linkage as well, although, on the 3rd to 2nd, it is not as noticeable.

I think its a normal characteristic of most manuals, mine kinda does it too when its cold in the morning but after one or two shifts then its smooth. I don't think I have driven a car that doesnt do that honestly.

 

[Hifiguy]

Is it at actual audible Grind? How many miles do you have? I had a slight push back getting into the gate when cold mostly when it was new. But now with almost 5K miles it shifts like butter no matter how hard I slam it.

Is it an audible grind or does it sound like the vibration/resonance in the shifter/reverse lockout? I had to use heat shrink and rubber so I wouldn't get an annoying buzz sound at high RPM in 3rd.

If you are low miles, you likely need more break-in of the transmission and if it persists, you'll want to make sure the transmission fluid is topped off.

Yes it audible, had it since new. I'm at 10k currently, same issue. It does get slightly better warmed up but not really. You have to slam it hard basically at redline. If I shift earlier it's hard to reproduce. It just sounds like the synchros have a hard time with the gear ratio differences up top with all the power.

Not sure how to describe it, but I do have this kind of crunchy type feeling when shifting from 1st to 2nd and is most noticeable after leaving the garage in the morning. Changed the fluid to Red Line D6 and kind of still the same thing. Learning to live with it and I guess it’s a manual after all. Thinking about installing the MGW shifter, maybe it has to do with the linkage as well, although, on the 3rd to 2nd, it is not as noticeable.

Yeah mine also does that when it is cold, but otherwise once its warmed up a bit its gone. What I'm talking about is aggressive shifts up top results in a clear grinding noise and I can feel it hesitate going in gear.

 

[mustangman02232]

Sounds like tremecs doing tremec things still after all these years

 

[elcamino]

I've had this with my MT82. I first thought it was due to me not having the clutch fully engaged. Paying more attention it happens near read line. I've since changed my shifter and have new fluid to install. Not sure if that will help. Those two things are not an attempt to correct it.

 

[NGOT8R]

I've had this with my MT82. I first thought it was due to me not having the clutch fully engaged. Paying more attention it happens near read line. I've since changed my shifter and have new fluid to install. Not sure if that will help. Those two things are not an attempt to correct it.

The nibble will likely still be there, but hey, it won’t hurt to put some fresh fluid in the tranny.

 

[AZlb5.0]

What about synchromesh?

 

[Hifiguy]

What about synchromesh?

Are you talking about a fluid swap? I don't think fluid will help here. I think something like this will though, assuming it fits the TR3160 as well:
https://www.txdrivetrain.com/product/1-2-carbon-hybrid-synchro-ring-set-tr6060/

 

[NGOT8R]

SynchroTech also has a carbon fiber lined synchro set. I just installed a complete set for all gears (including reverse) in my tranny. Of course the tranny will have to come apart to install them.

Then there’s the mindset of: ”Since I already have the tranny apart, I might as well add billet aluminum shift forks and a good clutch.” That’s what I call a “taxicab meter build” because the bill will be steadily climbing.

To do those things, upgrade synchros and forks you’d be looking at a little over $1K in parts alone. There’s also other stuff you can do to hopefully improve the performance and extend the life of your MT82-D4.

Note: Calimer is also beefing up the Tremec 3160 with good internals, so apparently there are upgraded parts available for this tranny. I just don’t know if he is having them privately manufactured for his builds only. I know he has the gears made by GForce. I called them and tried to buy a set for my build. They told me they can’t sell to the public and referred me to Calimer. I called Calimer and they said they won’t sell them outright and that you have to let them build your tranny if you want a set. It sounds like the 3160 may have some shortcomings too, because if it didn’t, it wouldn’t be on the map for upgraded parts.

 

[stev3french]

The noise is just when going into gear? Not when actually in gear? If its not making any sounds while in gear I doubt a new shifter/linkage or re-alignment of the linkage would help much. I installed the MGW and it took care of noise after going into gear. I didn't have any grind or noise going into gear at all.

 

[AZlb5.0]

Are you talking about a fluid swap? I don't think fluid will help here. I think something like this will though, assuming it fits the TR3160 as well:
https://www.txdrivetrain.com/product/1-2-carbon-hybrid-synchro-ring-set-tr6060/

Ok sometimes people get a bit of grinding because using the wrong fluid. My apologies though. Didn’t know it went deeper then that.

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