I had a somewhat similar experience. Wanted stock camber for a non HP and the shop couldn’t get more positive camber then -1.66/-1.67. Installed the MagnaRide Sport springs myself. Didn’t use a spring compressor when removing or installing the springs, just a jack and slowly released/compressed...
Anything is possible. Doubt a casual inspection will reveal anything. Still has a year left of factory warranty and sold under Ford Blue Advantage Gold, which should give you 14 days, 1k miles return guarantee. This dealer charges $999 fee on top. If you are happy with the price, this looks like...
Just another opinion, but I think these are great. Not as bright as stock and yeah, the connectors are a bit loose (easy fix by taping them to connector). The projected Mach 1 is pretty large and looks nice. You get a little tool to align it (rotates the projection cw/ccw) relative to the car...
Got this idea from an older thread. There is this SmartTOP module available for convertibles that allows for one touch operation etc. Well, this thing also has the ability to remember the last drive mode on key cycle or always switch to Sport+ or MyMode. Why not install it on a fastback...
Great to use with Forscan, one of the best software scanners for the Mustang. It's also good if you want to quickly check codes on different vehicles and capture basic data.
Installed the Steeda Sport lowering springs with camber plates and finally got an alignment today. The mechanic could not get less than -1.6 of camber as the plates were at end of travel, even though the strut was just slightly off center in the strut tower hole. Steeda support said the plates...
Your jam nut is inverted, not allowing it to sit inside the beveled part of the ball. The nut is making contact only partially with the rounded bottom of the ball. The ball will also sit higher this way and it will continue to slip out of position. Ask me how I know.
Picture from MGW site...
You want to connect the negative terminal to something like that grounding point on the strut tower. Otherwise, the battery charge monitoring system doesn't see the battery being charged.
I tried installing those from a GT500, thinking both have a digital dash so should be more of a direct fit, but it sure didn't work. I think it is all in the digital dash firmware and as built changes. I gave up.
For anyone that happens to read this thread. Steeda has the subframe alignment kit 555-4450 that can probably work on an M1, but they recommend buying 555-4449 and 555-4438 separately, as it won't contain those horseshoe clamps, plus it is cheaper that way.
Hyper flashing on the lights themselves or just the dash light? If dash only, then that is a notification of burned out bulb, since it is looking for resistance and to fix either requires a resistor or disabling burned out bulb notification via Forscan.
I wanna say I heard similar on mine. All hollow inside and the casing gets into resonance. Since the placement of the pipes inside could vary slightly plus the welding, maybe another one will behave a little different. Or maybe once all the soot starts building up, it will dampen it a little bit...
Like a metallic howling type sound? This is what I had on mine with otherwise stock system. It is all hollow with perforated piping inside after all. Brought more sound closer to the cabin.
The closest thing was someone posting that a company which makes some control box for convertibles, allows to automatically switch modes or something like that. Believe this person even reached out to the company asking. Didn't see anything after.