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murphyslaww

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If I were you, I would invest in a good scale. Heck, I am not even close to that weight, and I am looking at them just for weight distribution.

Have you pulled the ABS unit yet? If you have, I would love the information on how you did it. There is another thread on here about someone looking into it. I think its like 20 or 30 lbs, which is huge, especially on the drivers side.

The reality is, in order to win, I generally agree with TeeLew. Get as light as possible, then add ballast in strategic places to really balance the car. But if one were really serious, they would start with the ecoboost (In my opinion).
I have no idea how to remove the ABS unit and even that you could. If I did the front brake swap, it might make sense to do that then?

I’m going to make a decision on the brake upgrades after the South Texas Tour.

not sure if anyone saw one of my original posts, but this is what a(my) base 2015, stock’s weight distribution was:
Front
936 1039
856 762
Rear

mats, and trunk stuff was out, and I think it was on a 1/4 tank.
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WItoTX

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I have no idea how to remove the ABS unit and even that you could. If I did the front brake swap, it might make sense to do that then?

I’m going to make a decision on the brake upgrades after the South Texas Tour.

not sure if anyone saw one of my original posts, but this is what a(my) base 2015, stock’s weight distribution was:
Front
936 1039
856 762
Rear

mats, and trunk stuff was out, and I think it was on a 1/4 tank.
Here you go:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/abs-delete.171936/

No I didn't see your thread, where is it posted?
 

TeeLew

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I'm taking a hard look at the Wilwood Drag front brake setup as well. It would be useless on track, but for autocross, should be enough, and could be another 50lbs, some of it unsprung and rotating weight, off the front.

It's all throwing $$$ at it. If you want to know, the best $/lb is the rear seat delete @ $10.50/lb, next the Braille @ 18.39/lb. The Seats are $35/lb but I could have done better with Corbeau's, almost twice as good. The Wilwoods, look like they would be around $27/lb.
I don't think a drag brake setup would be an advantage. Even in an Auto-X, you still have to stop. Having said that, I don't think 15+" front discs and 6-pot calipers are an advantage, either. Brakes are, in general, a bad place to find weight. If you're using the 14/13 disc combo, then 2-piece discs only find you 11 pounds total, so >$100/#.

The least expensive weight loss is the NVH weights on the front and rear subframes. There's 10# free for you.

I've spec'd out a couple hundred pounds to drop, but getting to 3300# would be no mean feat, and I've started with a light car.
 

TeeLew

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The reality is, in order to win, I generally agree with TeeLew. Get as light as possible, then add ballast in strategic places to really balance the car. But if one were really serious, they would start with the ecoboost (In my opinion).
That was my idea when I bought my HPP. I'm not worried about winning any drag races, I just wanted it light, specifically on the nose. These things are almost as big of a pig as the V8 cars, though. It's not like making minimum weight is all that easy, but it's probably not impossible if you were willing to ditch the amenities.
 

TeeLew

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Here you go:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/abs-delete.171936/

No I didn't see your thread, where is it posted?
I think if one wanted to remove the ABS and go with a proper pedal box (Tilton, AP, etc.) and a dual-master lash-up with bias adjustment on a knob, their could be a reasonable argument for doing so. Having said that, I think getting the Ford Performance distribution block and running that ABS will probably ultimately perform better. The Bosch controller would be better without question, but for the money, it should be.
 

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kz

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I The Bosch controller would be better without question, but for the money, it should be.
Tim - what's the advantage of the Bosch Motorsport one ? It's pure curiosity (since not something I remotely think about doing) but one of locals here got it for his C5Z.

Also - what NVH weights you have in mind on the subframes ? I have had a weight on the one of the diff mounts (looked like poor attempt at a damper of some sort).
 

NightmareMoon

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Yeah I want to know about these NVH weights.

As for brakes, I’m a covert to full on aggressive track pads for national level stuff. When I want to slow down, I want to do it NOW.

Over slowing has not been a problem for me or my occasional codriver. Maybe you can get that hard early bite with the right pad selection and smaller base brakes?

My car will probably not see anything close to 3500lbs soon, maybe someday. Its still an occasional track car for me, and that means a bit more weight in the engine bay for oil separators FP cam covers, radiator, etc. autox is fun, its my primary habit, but the car is so capable on track its hard not to do that too.
 

TicTocTach

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That was my idea when I bought my HPP. I'm not worried about winning any drag races, I just wanted it light, specifically on the nose. These things are almost as big of a pig as the V8 cars, though. It's not like making minimum weight is all that easy, but it's probably not impossible if you were willing to ditch the amenities.
I weighed my '18 Premium EBPP before I replaced the intercooler - 3,940# with a full tank of gas (100#) and 215# of me in the car... so 3,715# wet. Weight distribution F/R (with me) was 52.3/48.7.

48862963581_4f92e4ec20_c.jpg
2018_Mustang_Weight-Full by clair_davis, on Flickr
 

murphyslaww

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Yeah I want to know about these NVH weights.

As for brakes, I’m a covert to full on aggressive track pads for national level stuff. When I want to slow down, I want to do it NOW.

Over slowing has not been a problem for me or my occasional codriver. Maybe you can get that hard early bite with the right pad selection and smaller base brakes?

My car will probably not see anything close to 3500lbs soon, maybe someday. Its still an occasional track car for me, and that means a bit more weight in the engine bay for oil separators FP cam covers, radiator, etc. autox is fun, its my primary habit, but the car is so capable on track its hard not to do that too.
I had thought I was going to make mine dual purpose, Auto-x/Time Trial at least, but if I keep her, it’s just Auto-x for this year, then re-assess for next year. You guys should really check out the wilwood stuff. Even the track stuff is lighter, and the weights are all easily accessible for each part. Disc, caliper, and hats.
 

TeeLew

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Yeah I want to know about these NVH weights.
There's one on the driver's side front subframe and two on the rear subframe where the aft differential mounts bolt in. I think something like 8# total.
 

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TeeLew

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Tim - what's the advantage of the Bosch Motorsport one ? It's pure curiosity (since not something I remotely think about doing) but one of locals here got it for his C5Z.

Also - what NVH weights you have in mind on the subframes ? I have had a weight on the one of the diff mounts (looked like poor attempt at a damper of some sort).
They're fully programmable and operate at very high speeds. The Bosch is kind of the go-to motorsports system for anything with ABS. I'm not aware of it even having any market competition.
 

TeeLew

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I weighed my '18 Premium EBPP before I replaced the intercooler - 3,940# with a full tank of gas (100#) and 215# of me in the car... so 3,715# wet. Weight distribution F/R (with me) was 52.3/48.
Those numbers are about what I've assumed. ~3650# dry is a fairly real Eco number. I've dropped some weight, but I've put stuff on the car, too (like the intercooler). I'm maybe 3575-3600# dry with my car in its lightest form. Pulling 300# off of that isn't going to happen any time soon. Just getting sub-3500# would be a minor victory.
 

strengthrehab

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Slightly off topic, but thinking of going with a bolstered (reclinable) seat. I did the fixed back seat for 3 years and it was a PITA. I still have Sparco mounts, but am looking at Corbeau seats. ANyone know if they will work with Sparco mounts?

I've considered the stock REcaros (if I can find some), but not really saving weight by going that direction. I have found some local GT350 recaros for a good price, though. I'm considering them.
 

shogun32

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I've considered the stock REcaros (if I can find some), but not really saving weight by going that direction. I have found some local GT350 recaros for a good price, though. I'm considering them.
Recaro pulls seem to go for $2000. I bought highly bolstered BRAUM Elite-R Racing Seats in Red. $700 for the pair.
 

strengthrehab

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Recaro pulls seem to go for $2000. I bought highly bolstered BRAUM Elite-R Racing Seats in Red. $700 for the pair.
Those don't look bad...comfortable? Pics in car?
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