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TeeLew

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Fair enough. I'm sure the dual rates work just fine but with no experience with either prior to purchasing, I followed the math
There's a set on the marketplace.
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bnightstar

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If the PP1 dampers were fully up to the task of controlling the PP1 springs I might agree . . . at least as a stop-gap measure.

Steeda lists all of the following ahead of any mention of performance benefits - you need to read that like you would the order of ingredients in prepackaged foods.
  • Lowers your S550 Mustang 0.5" on all 4 corners
  • Great ride quality, improved aerodynamics, and improved vehicle stance
They're aimed mostly at the street crowd that does at most moderately paced canyon drives (as opposed to the more serious canyon running).

Yes, I know you can let yourself get caught on the slippery slope here. But FR dampers + Min Drops isn't even close to the edge. If you have the choice between slightly overdoing the dampers relative to the springs or slightly overdoing the springs relative to the dampers, do the first. At least with stock/stock as your reference points.


Norm
I'm with you on that point Norm just wanted to point out the other option which is to pair the springs with something that you already have. I guess it will be better than PP1 springs but who knows.
 

krishelnino

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I have a detailed post on here about my experience if you want to take a look. Hope this helps you a bit and save you some trouble. I'm a novice but there are many knowledgeable people on this forum that have helped me so thanks to them I have a great handling car now !

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-or-steeda-suspension-kit.158321/post-3226318

I'd recommend starting with this and add more as you need.
1) Ford Performance Track Shocks/Strut Kit M-18000-F
2) Toe Link to knuckle Bearings M-5A460-M
3) BMR SP083R handling springs
4) Steeda Camber Plates - or BMR/Vorshlag if you need caster adjustment
5) Steeda Lateral and Tension links with bushings
6) Steeda Bumpsteer kit
7) BMR SB044R 35mm front sway bar
8) Steeda stop the hop starter kit - alternative BMR cradle lockout CB005.

A performance alignment makes a huge difference and when you do that, you can have them clock your bushings

I'm also doing these upgrades next which would probably make the car that much more better
RLCA bushings SuperPro
4.09 gears with Torsen differential
Lethal Performance Extreme Differential Bolt Upgrade kit
Ford Performance GT350 half shafts
Steeda red differential inserts (still on the fence about this)
 
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shogun32

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Fair enough. I'm sure the dual rates work just fine but with no experience with either prior to purchasing, I followed the math
the DR springs work with Steeda pro-Action adjustables, barely.

a 300 front married up to a straight-rate 1000 rear is probably a better combo. When the rear gets reasonably deep into the higher rate the dampers have some trouble.

For my 3-way build with Fortune Auto I'm targetting 275/1000 combo.
 
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Ericc B

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right, you're talking bolt-on spacers. "We" don't consider that an acceptable solution, only slip-on. OP will want to hit up OP Mustang for a set and extended studs. Or just buy the FP front wheel hubs with the studs already installed.
If you install new studs and use slip through spacers then there is no need to use 1 inch, which are actually a bit too wide for good measure and also look silly. The only reason people use them (studded 1 inch spacers that is) is that you require at least 1 inch to clear the factory studs.
 

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Doug T

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So is everybody on board with BMR's new CB762 kit?
 
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Doug T

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Is it a standalone kit or do I NEED the bushing kit also?
 
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Doug T

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So your not concerned at all about something that was designed to flex, is now rigid? Stress cracking, metal fatigue etc. Just asking not arguing.
 

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shogun32

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So your not concerned at all about something that was designed to flex, is now rigid?
it was supposed to be rigid from the get-go except some pussy in marketing decided that a Mustang should be as quiet as a Camry. So now you have the rear half of the car deflecting every which way.
 

Ewheels

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If you install new studs and use slip through spacers then there is no need to use 1 inch, which are actually a bit too wide for good measure and also look silly. The only reason people use them (studded 1 inch spacers that is) is that you require at least 1 inch to clear the factory studs.
If you want rotatable 305 tires in the front, 1" is what you need. It'll look the same as a PP2


it was supposed to be rigid from the get-go except some pussy in marketing decided that a Mustang should be as quiet as a Camry. So now you have the rear half of the car deflecting every which way.
It's always some pussy in marketing that ruins cars :crackup:
 

TonyNJ

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Your car and your money but I would strongly urge wider and square wheels and tires. If you want an S550 to handle correctly, the only option is square tires.

If it makes you feel any better, I cut holes in my brand new car. At least wheels and tires are reversible.
EW, I'm about to go from the factory PP1 wheels of 9/9.5 to the Ford Performance 9.5/10 set up. Would you recommend I stay with the factory P255F/P275R/40R19 or would there be a more appropriate wider size to fill this new wheels? Weekend/daily fun car. Not track. I enjoyed the PP2 set up but the 10.5/11 with 305s was a little much on the daily. Maybe 305s on these narrower wheels?
 

NightmareMoon

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EW, I'm about to go from the factory PP1 wheels of 9/9.5 to the Ford Performance 9.5/10 set up. Would you recommend I stay with the factory P255F/P275R/40R19 or would there be a more appropriate wider size to fill this new wheels? Weekend/daily fun car. Not track. I enjoyed the PP2 set up but the 10.5/11 with 305s was a little much on the daily. Maybe 305s on these narrower wheels?
Maybe a 275/35 and 285/35, or 275/35 or 40 square.

im not sure why you’d bother with a 9.5/10 stagger when there are so many good lightweight strong flow formed 10” square setups out there.
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