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Doug T

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Hello friends. New member here. Just picked up a new 2020 gt pp1 manual leftover with active exhaust. I'm coming from a world of Miata's and WRX's. With those cars, handling is awesome, but always looking for more power. The mustang is plenty fast, but I want to make a canyon carver out of it. I understand it will never handle like them but always looking to improve. I don't care about drag racing or burnouts and donuts. Car will never be tracked. Just spirited street driving. Given that, do I need all the subframe and diff bushing upgrades or just go with let's say upgraded sways for now. I don't want to lower it because of the real world roads we have in Pa. I'll need all the suspension travel I can get. Also, some of the bracing I've seen for the IRS. Is it okay to put that on with stock diff, subframe bushings or is there a possibility of stress cracking from it trying to twist without being firmed up. Thanks in advance this site is great.
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Ewheels

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If you don't want to lower the car, I think the best route you can do is sway bars, wider tires (square will give you the best turn-in), some additional front camber, and possibly the Ford Track shocks.

If you just want a canyon carver, I don't think you need to get into bracing and bushings.
 

NightmareMoon

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Agreed, wide square tires, swaybars and good shocks.
 

thompsje

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I'd still do the BMR rear subframe lockouts (the CB0005 L2 set). IMO, they make the rear end feel more planted in any driving situation. Plus, they're relatively inexpensive, didn't add much/any NVH, and are fairly easy to install.
 
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Doug T

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Thanks. I'm not going to pay for new rims and tires on a brand new car. One of the reasons I bought it was because it already had performance goodies. Plus I really like the look of those wheels. I'll try the sways and subframe brace. For now I need to break it in. Only 200 miles so far. Also, is it true I can't activate track mode until 1k miles?
 

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Thanks. I'm not going to pay for new rims and tires on a brand new car. One of the reasons I bought it was because it already had performance goodies. Plus I really like the look of those wheels. I'll try the sways and subframe brace. For now I need to break it in. Only 200 miles so far. Also, is it true I can't activate track mode until 1k miles?
You can activate Track Mode whenever you feel like it. It was the first thing I did when I took my 2020 for a test drive.
 

blind*guardian

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Definitely start with just a few items and add more as you learn what's needed. You can also go with coil-overs later and just use spacers if you don't want to lower it too much.
 

DrZed

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OP, I to came from a Miata (NB2.5 FM level 2), and modified E30. These light cars gave extreme confidence in their handling and you can easily feel limits. I'm a few months into my '21 PP1 and *just* starting to explore some limits. The fat car really does feel much different and does not inspire the same confidence as the smaller cars. I think I need to keep pushing myself and trusting the car, but you can feel the weight move through the corner and then "set".

I will likely do lowering springs and shocks at some point in time. Keep us posted on the mods and how it makes you confident in corners. Thanks!
 

shogun32

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forget the sways. You already have PP1. Do you have Magneride or not? If non-MR then FRPP track shocks or the Bilstein B6. The rear PP1 shocks in particular are totally crap - the fronts are "tolerable".

absolutely the IRS bushings (or lockouts), alignment dowels, and bracing is a MUST do. It actually attaches the back of the car to the front half.

Where in PA?
 

Norm Peterson

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Thanks. I'm not going to pay for new rims and tires on a brand new car. One of the reasons I bought it was because it already had performance goodies. Plus I really like the look of those wheels. I'll try the sways and subframe brace. For now I need to break it in. Only 200 miles so far. Also, is it true I can't activate track mode until 1k miles?
The PP1 is at best a mild upgrade from base . . . arguably what base should have been from the get-go.

Depending on how serious you get about canyon running, and how good you get as a corner-carving driver, you may still be on the hook for deciding whether today's subjective appearance preference still outweighs the desire for improved cornering performance.

All else the same, most staggered tire & wheel setups understeer slightly heavier than they would if they were 'square'. Particularly as one approaches the car's ultimate limits. That's usually a good thing for the average driver and for street driving in general. But it can make the car "drive heavier" (mostly a subjective thing).


Keep in mind that folks like Nightmare, shogun, myself, and a number of others are commenting from a somewhat more hardcore handling perspective based on experience with things like hard cornering and handling balance.


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Doug T

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While the pp1 may be a "Mild" upgrade, I sure am liken' those big Brembo's and that Torsen 3.73. I like the idea of attaching the back to the car. So go all in you say? Is there a preferred method to take? I read about shearing bolts and/or drilling bushings which I'm not afraid to do. However, if the reward isn't worth the time and effort......
 

Joe Mac

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While the pp1 may be a "Mild" upgrade, I sure am liken' those big Brembo's and that Torsen 3.73. I like the idea of attaching the back to the car. So go all in you say? Is there a preferred method to take? I read about shearing bolts and/or drilling bushings which I'm not afraid to do. However, if the reward isn't worth the time and effort......
I'd add a Steeda Track bar
 

Ewheels

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Thanks. I'm not going to pay for new rims and tires on a brand new car. One of the reasons I bought it was because it already had performance goodies. Plus I really like the look of those wheels. I'll try the sways and subframe brace. For now I need to break it in. Only 200 miles so far. Also, is it true I can't activate track mode until 1k miles?
Your car and your money but I would strongly urge wider and square wheels and tires. If you want an S550 to handle correctly, the only option is square tires.

If it makes you feel any better, I cut holes in my brand new car. At least wheels and tires are reversible.
 
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Doug T

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Also I found the WRX to waaaayy outhandle the Miata. Kind of what put me on this mission. The Mustang only weighs 350-400 pounds more than the WRX. With IRS and all I feel I can get close enough.
 
 




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