SCCA CAM-C Thread

[NightmareMoon]

Yes on legal in FS. And from what I understand, it was a complete game changer.

Maybe next time in Beeville I need to catch a ride with you to feel out the Gilken. If it's better than the E-diff, I can only imagine how your car turns in.

Yeah I don't think it helps turn in really, probably the reverse.. However the car turns in well just due to the rest of the setup.

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[mavisky]

Our entire CAM class was outrun on raw time alone by Tommy Pulliam in a FS SS 1LE.

To be fair I was on Yokohamas that were new in 2024, but he still ran a 41.4 to my 42.0

This is one of the reasons I want to back off on spring rate a little bit on my car to help a little with compliance and corner exit.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Our entire CAM class was outrun on raw time alone by Tommy Pulliam in a FS SS 1LE.

To be fair I was on Yokohamas that were new in 2024, but he still ran a 41.4 to my 42.0

This is one of the reasons I want to back off on spring rate a little bit on my car to help a little with compliance and corner exit.

No surprising if the driver was on fire or the weather was wet.

what are your current spring rates?

 

[WItoTX]

Yeah I don't think it helps turn in really, probably the reverse.. However the car turns in well just due to the rest of the setup.

Yeah, you are right, I guess mid corner/corner exit is really where it shines. Especially mid corner, except for when I drive an LT1 like the Voodoo and apply way too much loud pedal.

 

[mavisky]

No surprising if the driver was on fire or the weather was wet.

what are your current spring rates?

700F and non-divorced 900R

Looking at something along the lines of a 650F/750R non-divorced. Not a major change, but I think this will suit our bumpier courses a little better.

 

[Dallas J]

Hey folks, at the Packwood ProSolo with my ultra mild CAM setup.

Not expecting anything amazing for results other than good testing. Current setup,

• MCS 2WNR from Vorshlag - 450/550, SSB upper mounts
• 18x11.5 Apex VS-5RS w/ 315 A052s (take offs from nats last year)
• Drilled front swaybar - My math says 35% stiffer (I'm pretty good at math, but feel free to correct me)

Trying to get Solostorm setup with OBD channels (I have the mx+ bluetooth adapter). I can connect no problem but only option for logging channels requires hardwiring instead of standard OBD connection. I thought I saw others could select basic channels like TPS and RPM at least without hardwiring but I don't see that option. Any help?

 

[kz]

Trying to get Solostorm setup with OBD channels (I have the mx+ bluetooth adapter). I can connect no problem but only option for logging channels requires hardwiring instead of standard OBD connection. I thought I saw others could select basic channels like TPS and RPM at least without hardwiring but I don't see that option. Any help?

I've been using RaceCapture with SS for a while but about to go back to GPS puck (have Racebox mini on the way) + OBDlink.

Are you using CAN bus option (recently added presets for S550) or just regular OBD2 PID channels - which is what used in the past and it worked just fine.
What do you have selected in Vehicle Telemetry - OBD-II PID scan tool or OBDlink CAN Bus Scan Tool ?

First used to work very easily but I haven't used for last 3 years so there is chance Petrel messed something up, second I just configured and haven't tested but allows you to select S550 presets from the library. First should get you basic data including TPS and RPM.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah, solostorm should talk to your MX+ without issue to get RPM and a few other things.

But trying to use solostorm at a Pro is a fools errand. No time at all between runs to look at data, so its kind of pointless.

I don't have my tablet handy or I'd check settings.

 

[kz]

Yeah, solostorm should talk to your MX+ without issue to get RPM and a few other things.

But trying to use solostorm at a Pro is a fools errand. No time at all between runs to look at data, so its kind of pointless.

I don't quite agree - you have 4 more shots at each course after day 1 morning session with break in between (an entire night) to review your data. I find it very valuable at Pros. This of course can be completely invalidated by change of conditions.
I struggle with get anything reasonable from solostorm in between runs on a tour - just too wrapped up in figuring out what to do differently or generally being upset with myself while in Pro there's time to look in a more calm manner and fix things.

 

[kz]

@Dallas J - I tested today Solostorm with OBD LInk MX+ set as a CAN bus device using the preset from the library (it's been recently added to Solostorm) and it is working very well - has all kinds of data including wheel speeds, steering and brake angle (and obviously TPS and other standard things). They really figured out the CAN bus data.

 

[Dallas J]

I don't quite agree - you have 4 more shots at each course after day 1 morning session with break in between (an entire night) to review your data. I find it very valuable at Pros. This of course can be completely invalidated by change of conditions.
I struggle with get anything reasonable from solostorm in between runs on a tour - just too wrapped up in figuring out what to do differently or generally being upset with myself while in Pro there's time to look in a more calm manner and fix things.

100%, I use it after each session combined with course walks to see where to find time. Between runs at a pro Im just focusing on driving. But theres a lot of data there to figure out where to go faster or what to fix.

@Dallas J - I tested today Solostorm with OBD LInk MX+ set as a CAN bus device using the preset from the library (it's been recently added to Solostorm) and it is working very well - has all kinds of data including wheel speeds, steering and brake angle (and obviously TPS and other standard things). They really figured out the CAN bus data.

Thanks, I did that saturday PM runs and that worked perfect. Only pulled in RPM and Throttle, but it was good data to add. Will def work on getting the full logging capability especially to add wheel speed.

Will post more details on my experience on the Packwood Pro. I wasnt where i wanted to be, but data showed where I left about 0.5s on each side. And my plan where to go from here (I have all the plans)

 

[NightmareMoon]

No racing this weekend. Got the car back from a local tuner who had it for a month and didnt do diddly squat. May let him try a remote tune instead.

Borrowed a sundowner aluminum trailer and auditioned the Tacoma as a short range tow vehicle.

works, but not very confidence inspiring if you have to stop or change lanes suddenly. About what I expected

 

[Dallas J]

Aight, my first Pro in the mustang (done ~20 pros in the Evo or other cars, set a bunch of top qualifiers but never got out of first bracket in super challenge cause... reasons...). I only have a few events in the Mustang and my butt is far from dialed. Lots to learn but I'm having a lot more fun than expected with the car. Especially considering the size/weight.

Here's some thoughts.

Prep
I was hoping to have the new FSB in time but that didn't work out. Realized I could drill the OEM PP1 bar 2" inboard increasing stiffness by 35% per my calculation. Not as much as I wanted but enough to re-connect my RSB and see how she do.

I also punted on getting rear bushings installed since I was running out of time with work constraints.

Short response on drilling front bar and attaching rear, that helped a ton. Corner exit was far more manageable compared to stock location front bar and better mid corner grip than no-rear-bar. As you would expect...

Friday
The plan was to do practice launches because first time with the 10speed auto and Tree. Driving from the trailer to the grid area all the ABS/TC lights lit up. I could turn off/turn on and drive slowly and it would go out. Once I hit ~15mph they'd all come back on.

Checked for any torn wires on the sensors or obvious signs, nothing wrong . Popped in my head that I wonder if metal from drilling could have landed on the wheel bearing (Mach1 or 22+ mag-ride upright type). Theirs a little access window to clean it which I did and pulled out a good amount of metal chips.

Test drive came back with no ABS lights, NICE! But now the family is hungry so we went to the brewery for food instead of test runs.

Saturday
AM runs I couldn't get tablet to connect to GPS so just ignored it and did my runs having no idea what to expect. Launching with the 10speed, you can get to about 1900 rpms and thats it. Push it anymore and the rear tires start trying to spin chirping slowly.

I found lifting off brake slightly anticipating the last yellow was dialed for .5xx. Sometimes I would sleep and run .7xx but those runs my brain was thinking about RPM. Lifting brake and rolling into throttle was good for basically zero wheel spin and 2.1xx 60fts. 2.0 or 1.9 would be better, but its def better than 2.2 or 2.3s!

Handling was pretty good. Car is still pretty floppy with 450/550 and stock bars but it was pretty dang easy to drive.

Only issue I seemed to have is that if too much was asked of the back and it got just a little too far out of sorts, you almost had to shut down the run to get it back. Cars like the S2000 or Corvette in the same scenario's Ive been in you could get much further out of sorts before it required that much effort to re-sort.

Sat PM I got data running and started attacking quite a bit harder. I picked up time, but my fast times on both sides had big mistakes. Left side I pushed deep in a ~120deg turn and data showed an immediate 4/10s loss. Right side I missed the 1-2 shift which causes basically a 3/10 delay.

Sunday
The kid helped me bleed brakes saturday night since I don't think they've ever been bled. That definitely felt better.

I ran decent, but nothing spectacular. Found some of the time I left out there but didnt match what I knew was possible just based on data composites.

Final times were L: 30.599 and R:30.718. Im definitely still getting a feel for things but 30.2-30.3s would have been possible.

Thoughts
I really wanted to at least beat FS but considering Im a very heavy spec with few mods, the Camaro SS 1LE had quite a few benefits over my tank. The weight, better rear suspension (less weird bind), and far better diff really makes a difference.

My car was the heaviest of all CAM-C cars at 3965 with me. Matts car was 3865 and Russ's was 3790. Im about 210 with clothes so 3755lb car after the light Apex wheels and MCS suspension. Tons of opportunity to lose weight but I truly only have wheels/tires, coilovers with soft-ish springs, and a drilled swaybar. Fully stock otherwise. Def not a proper CAM spec yet.

Where to go from here
450/550 isnt bad, its comfortable, but its just not as responsive as I want. If I were a newer driver, I would stick with that and learn it. But I want it a bit sharper. So Im ordering either 650 or 700lb/in springs to swap in the rear and put 550s up front. Still softer than lots of ya'll but a decent jump. With the big front bar that should help quite a bit without being to harsh for the bumpy lots we have.

Rear suspension needs bushings to start deleting the bonded bushing bits. I have some to get started with. But will be looking at making my own vertical links and upper camber arms with lockouts. Could I buy them? Yes. Is that my style? No.

200-250lbs weight loss is necessary. I have a list but also have to maintain folding passenger seat and rear seats because baby and 10y/o while traveling. Race car becomes commuter with the RV and Enclosed when we vacation on the way to destination events.

I think with my future changes and more dialing in, we could have been in the mid 29s on this weekends courses. Looking forward to trying making the car competitive with me in it.

 

[mavisky]

Where to go from here
450/550 isnt bad, its comfortable, but its just not as responsive as I want. If I were a newer driver, I would stick with that and learn it. But I want it a bit sharper. So Im ordering either 650 or 700lb/in springs to swap in the rear and put 550s up front. Still softer than lots of ya'll but a decent jump. With the big front bar that should help quite a bit without being to harsh for the bumpy lots we have.

Rear suspension needs bushings to start deleting the bonded bushing bits. I have some to get started with. But will be looking at making my own vertical links and upper camber arms with lockouts. Could I buy them? Yes. Is that my style? No.

This is about where I'm at exactly with my car's development. Although i'm targeting about 50lbs more front and rear than you are with regards to rates. It's possible the higher rates i'm on work with a full sperhical rear suspension setup as the freedom of movement would lessen the active total rate on each wheel.

 

[Dallas J]

Are you doing 700 or 750 rear then? Ive been a bit torn on 650 or 700. I think with the Steeda bar on the way doing 142-197% of stock and the drilled OEM is ~135% will work with the slightly stiffer rear rate.

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