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I wouldnt worry about it. Wash my car all the time with the hood vents open. Run events in the rain with the hood vents open. Haven't dealt with any concerns over the last 12 months.

Certainly a fraction of the cost. I used Trackspec louvers, but only because I scored a good deal on a full set that had never been opened. The Race Louvers product works better according to AJ's testing.

Possibly, not sure what the market is for a V6 hood, but it could benefit a GT owner who's looking for a spare hood to cut holes into for track day purposes I guess.

Simple and effective. Stealing this idea as soon as I get home.

No worries. Just use the dummy gauges and you'll be fine. A modern car should be able to easily run an autocross without any overheating issues unless something is broken.

Does the V6 not have a selectable display that shows actual temps on the various sensors? I know you won't have some of them, but I can access a screen between my two dials that shows up to 5 temps on screen at once. Never really bothered with cylinder head temp and only watch oil and coolant...

232 on oil temps or coolant temps? Either way opening the hood between runs will help let excess heat escape while in grid if you don't have large hood vents.

I believe those currently work as air curtains. The GT350 has similar vents and per AJ's wind tunnel testing blocking them off actually helps downforce. You could block them off from the front, but no need if you can block them off from the rear. Once the air stacks up in the vent then any...

Personally I would prefer a centrifugal blower, but obviously Ford felt fine with the idea of a positive displacement blower as well as Chevrolet with their ZL1 1LE and 99% of other supercharged factory performance cars.

Dana (the owner) is actually looking to boost his own car soon so has been doing a ton of research and a mutual friend of Dana and I has a Whipple supercharged GT350 that he tracks at Road Atlanta regularly. Speed Foundry will get you taken care of.

I didn't as I actually welcomed a little extra front camber. Rear camber can be adjusted from the factory, and of course had the toe adjusted as part of the post install alignment.

Alignment issues aren't a concern. It's not like there are numerous ways it can go back in place. Also, you're talking about a production line Ford Mustang, not a Pagani. Panel fitment isn't exactly flawless as it is so doubt it will even be noticeable. Just make sure you get the bumper over the...

It's not unpainted. That's part of the plastic ducting for the radiator and what the foam inside the bumper cover sits against. This angle shows it better.

@NightmareMoon contact The Parts Farm about just a long block from something like this car they have in inventory. I know their engine and auto transmission kits go for like 10k, but if you just need a long block and no trans and no wiring you may be able to get out the door for $7,500...

One of a kind doesn't help you anywhere but YouTube views. Look at all the headaches Adam LZ has gone through to get his car to work even 90% of the way it should. Modern cars make engine swaps a absolute headache, and other than YouTube views there's nothing a Barra could accomplish that a...

The Barra is a turbocharged 4.0L inline 6 from the Australian market. Think of them like a massive 2JZ with lower revs. Biggest issue is they're a cast iron block so super heavy. Not an issue if you're turboing the piss out of it to chase drag strip numbers, but the absolute wrong way to go for...

A Barra swap is a terrible idea. Giant Incline 6 cast iron block would be terrible for weight balance vs the aluminum Coyote.

It's autox baby. Max angle of 15 degrees. Comparing the 12 degree AOA between the two you're looking at the following: 80mph 117 APR vs 175 Verus 100mph 183 APR vs 220 Verus 160mph 263 APR - 590 Verus Interesting to see APR's wing closing the gap at 100mph, but then dying off up top in...

Had mine off a number of times. The bumper to fender bolts are always a pain because the wheel well liners are much stiffer on the Shelby's than the regular GT's, V6's, and Ecoboosts. It works best if you remove the entire undertray with the bumper too. In total you've probably got 12-16 bolts...

I'm sure it's functional but I've never seen APR publish any data on their stuff. It sits pretty low compared to all the other options but I would assume it's within a reasonable margin of what comes on the GT500 CFTP or the Mustang GT4 racecars since they are a similar chord width and height...