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SCCA CAM-C Thread

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boardkat

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Stock 1/LE Camaro in Bristol with probably more fuel than it should (I think owner was worried he won't make weight) weighed at 3333 lb in Bristol - I have a pic of scales log for CAM classes....
An equivalent 2.0T would be 150-200lbs less and make useable autox power. It’s the class killer, fully prepped and well-driven. And you’d never catch me in one - different strokes for different folks :)
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An equivalent 2.0T would be 150-200lbs less and make useable autox power. It’s the class killer, fully prepped and well-driven. And you’d never catch me in one - different strokes for different folks :)
Sorry - forgot to add - that was 2.0T 1/LE. I think stock SS 1/LE is 3650ish.
 
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Sorry - forgot to add - that was 2.0T 1/LE. I think stock SS 1/LE is 3650ish.
Yep, and I meant to say with reasonable weight reduction, it’s very easy to get into 31xx range. Total effort and it’s sub-3000, which is crazy - which is how at 3300, that baby is 47-48% front biased :(
 

TeeLew

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I might lack power, but the weight part I'll be able to address, I think. The nice thing about the HPP is it's reasonable light. Wheels, brakes & a hood should put me within 100#. I've got some ideas on where to get more, but unfortunately, I need to do a couple things that add weight, like an intercooler.

2 projects today. I bought the actual can, but everything else was mine. I made a mount & made the lines from the Ford connectors. Taking the intake manifold off made life much easier to get to the connectors and route the lines.

After that I started running the #1 cable from the trunk to under the hood and then start terminating the ends. I'm about done under the hood, with the stock battery box out & cables routed & terminated. I'm going from the battery to an Anderson plug then to the car. If I need to, now I pop a battery in in a second. Tomorrow is just a couple of terminations and shrink it up.
 

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Read this thread about - specifically about jpaulson's 2nd place at Nats last year - on what was a completely stock powertrain. Look at Devin Taylor's results this year (in CAM-T) - he's running just over 300hp in his car...

There are so many things to fix in these cars that power would be last thing I would do unless you are going for total build like boardkat. And the question is - what Norm said - how much of it can you put down...
Yep, 351whp and 367wtq. The real secret to it's straight line speed is that it's making 320tq+ at 2000rpm and has perfect gearing, 73mph at 6800rpm. That and when it's ballasted up with a full fuel tank and all the CAM interior bits it's still only 3100lbs. The biggest issue with most CAM-C cars is weight. Followed by the fact most people are "just" coilovers/bars/wheels/tires/some power. There is a lot of time to be had between slapping those parts on vs going down all the available rabbit holes to get the most out of each part. From the time the car was on 95% of it's current parts to now, it's gained somewhere in the neighborhood of 2-2.5 seconds on a 60 second course. About one second of that was the M29 trans and intake setup.

Anyway, more power is still good. I have my eye on doing an LS2 swap. Should be able to make damn near or right at 500whp with just a cam and E85. I'm sure I'll have to chase the suspension setup again to make that work as well as it does now.
 

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Just FYI, Terry Fair scaled my 2015 base at 3595, bone stock. I'd bet you can go sub 3500, I'd imagine with, exhaust, seats, battery, and rear seat delete on at least that trim and year.
 

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It looks like I've had a decision made for me. I've been thinking STU is what I'd run, but I just got access to the autocross results for the last couple years in Southern CA. It appears STU has a maximum of 2 entries & most of the time gets none. CAM-C has a minimum of 5 cars, but will draw 10 or more at times, average is around 7-8 runners.

I still don't have much interest in completely CAM'ing my car out, but it's not tough to figure out which class is going to be more entertaining. I guess it's big tires for me! I bought 19x11 wheels, so 305's are probably what I'll run.

So what's the conventional wisdom on tires? Good things have been said about Yoko's 052, but they don't have a 19" tire. The Yoke in the correct size is the AD08R. Same with Falken's new hot tire, they only make up to 18's. Dunlop, Kumho, Hancook all seem to be a tick off pace. That leaves the Bridgestone RE71R & the BFG Rival S 1.5.

I think Brian favors the 'Stones (at the least, he said he likes driving them). Is this pretty much the story across the board? I think most of my running will be in hot conditions (Fontana, CA). What would you all recommend for tires?
 

strengthrehab

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Falken 19's are supposed to be out in Fall (Sept-Oct?)

The tire that is getting a lot of interest right now is the Goodyear SC3 (non-R) that is OE on the SS 1LE. From what is public knowledge, they handle heat "better" than the RE71R.
 

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Curveball: Goodyear super car 3 is really proving itself to be competitive at the locals over here with theoretically good wear characteristics. Especially in big kid sizes. I might try them next.
 

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Falken 19's are supposed to be out in Fall (Sept-Oct?)

The tire that is getting a lot of interest right now is the Goodyear SC3 (non-R) that is OE on the SS 1LE. From what is public knowledge, they handle heat "better" than the RE71R.
Word on the (informed) street is that the not-OE version of the SC3 is the fast one. The OE one on the 1LE is good but not as good.
 

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Curveball: Goodyear super car 3 is really proving itself to be competitive at the locals over here with theoretically good wear characteristics. Especially in big kid sizes. I might try them next.
Same. I would love a tire that is very close to RE71R and lasts longer.
 

strengthrehab

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How do we know which is the Non-OE?
 

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It looks like I've had a decision made for me. I've been thinking STU is what I'd run, but I just got access to the autocross results for the last couple years in Southern CA. It appears STU has a maximum of 2 entries & most of the time gets none. CAM-C has a minimum of 5 cars, but will draw 10 or more at times, average is around 7-8 runners.

I still don't have much interest in completely CAM'ing my car out, but it's not tough to figure out which class is going to be more entertaining. I guess it's big tires for me! I bought 19x11 wheels, so 305's are probably what I'll run.

So what's the conventional wisdom on tires? Good things have been said about Yoko's 052, but they don't have a 19" tire. The Yoke in the correct size is the AD08R. Same with Falken's new hot tire, they only make up to 18's. Dunlop, Kumho, Hancook all seem to be a tick off pace. That leaves the Bridgestone RE71R & the BFG Rival S 1.5.

I think Brian favors the 'Stones (at the least, he said he likes driving them). Is this pretty much the story across the board? I think most of my running will be in hot conditions (Fontana, CA). What would you all recommend for tires?
You can get 18" wheels and fit Yokohomas on them - question is how shorter tire is going to affect your gearing on Eco.
I've ran Bridgestones before (in FS sizes), for this season I got 305 BFGs purely because they were ~$300 cheaper than Stones and season was an experiment with barely any mods there. They're OK, supposedly suck in cold but fortunately haven't had a chance to run them in real cold due to late season start.

Falkens RT660 will be available in large sizes soon - supposedly - and they're relatively cheap. It's probably what I'm going to buy next spring because why the hell not (unless "people" decide they suck and are not worth trying - SSC isn't exactly the benchmark I am going to use here). Only tire that has contingency right now is BFG not that it mattered for me...
 

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18's were Plan A, but that brings 2nd gear into the low 60 mph range, which is just a little short. With 19's, it's more like 68 mph tops in 2nd.

My first autocross with this car is going to be in about a month, so I don't have a lot of time to wait to choose tires. I've spent the last 25 years developing an aversion to Goodyears. I gotta think that whatever advantage they have will be both short-lived and with downsides like abysmal quality control. My first set pretty much has to be RE71R's, even if just from the perspective of setting a good baseline. There might be better options, but these are the benchmark of the day and if I don't like the handling characteristics of the car then at least I'll know it's not a tire issue.
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