SCCA CAM-C Thread

[TeeLew]

I'm on a work trip right now, but one of my daughters sent me picks of the boxes showing up at home. The latest is the parts I ordered to build toe bars. I have a bunch of stuff for the front end of the car, but before I install that stuff, I need to be able to align the car afterwards. The last big outlay has been to build the parts which let me do alignments by myself.

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[landstuhltaylor]

The Goodyear SC3 tire you want is the 265 or wider. Do not buy the narrower sizes as they are different.

 

[o-man]

https://tire.bridgestone.co.jp/potenza/re71rs/

TeeLaw, I’ve been with you on the Goodyear front for years. I finally broke down and bought the SC3, 305-30/19. Drove my first autocross today on them and was quite impressed by them. I run CAM-C in my Bullitt and have a good time with just springs, camber plates, and CB005. Good luck with your endeavor

 

[TeeLew]

I got off my ass and did something today. I changed front springs, front bar, adjustable drop links, camber/caster plates, camber bolts and extended lugs. The car's back on the ground and I'll string it tomorrow.

 

[TeeLew]

I got off my ass and did something today. I changed front springs, front bar, adjustable drop links, camber/caster plates, camber bolts and extended lugs. The car's back on the ground and I'll string it tomorrow.

Played some yesterday, but didn't get it aligned yet due to a shortcoming with the alignment fixture design department. I'll take another stab at it today.

First thought, those extended wheel studs are a subtle, but effective, visual. I only put them on the front because that's where the wheels will have a spacer, but I'm going to have to match the rear. It has a 'no-bullshit' look to it that I like.

 

[Dana Pants]

Tenhulzen plates w/ integrated camber gauge is the easy way to align a car.

 

[TeeLew]

Tenhulzen plates w/ integrated camber gauge is the easy way to align a car.

Ya, the problem with using plates like these is getting the front & rear pointing in the same direction. I'll take some pictures of my lash-up when it's finished. It will look something like this: https://nasaspeed.news/toolshed-engineer/string-alignment/?amp

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Tenhulzen plates w/ integrated camber gauge is the easy way to align a car.

I have these plates and I'm honestly not a huge fan. There's so much variability from lots of points of deflection.

 

[TeeLew]

I have these plates and I'm honestly not a huge fan.

My fixtures will need a Mk2 iteration to be really right, but it's a lot better system. They'll be open source for anyone here.

 

[TeeLew]

I'm sitting at -3.3/-3.4 deg on front camber. Rear is pretty skinny at -0.6. I left the rear because I'm lazy. I'll take care of it after I get my front fixture built (when it's easier to set toe). I set front toe to 1mm in per side and the rear to 2mm in per side.

It drives nice and there's nothing that stands out as incorrect. I haven't gotten very frisky, yet, so I can't really comment on balance.

My stock front bar was marked '31' with a paint pen. The tag (& calipers) shows it's actually 33.3mm. The BMR one is 35mm. To be honest, I don't think that's much of a difference. It's not enough for me to tell just rolling around town. I started it at mid/mid settings.

The front springs are the Vogtland Sports. They're 220#/in. Honestly, they don't feel like a huge change, either. My old Fox a hundred years ago was significantly stiffer on the front. That's not necessarily good, it just was. Maybe the Magnaride is a bigger variable than the springs?

Anyway, over the last couple days, I feel like I've taken a nice step with the car prep. First event is late Sept, so I've still got a while. Energy Suspension is way behind on production, so who knows when I'm going to get to play with suspension bushings. At least I've got this part accomplished.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I'm sitting at -3.3/-3.4 deg on front camber. Rear is pretty skinny at -0.6. I left the rear because I'm lazy. I'll take care of it after I get my front fixture built (when it's easier to set toe). I set front toe to 1mm in per side and the rear to 2mm in per side.

It drives nice and there's nothing that stands out as incorrect. I haven't gotten very frisky, yet, so I can't really comment on balance.

My stock front bar was marked '31' with a paint pen. The tag (& calipers) shows it's actually 33.3mm. The BMR one is 35mm. To be honest, I don't think that's much of a difference. It's not enough for me to tell just rolling around town. I started it at mid/mid settings.

The front springs are the Vogtland Sports. They're 220#/in. Honestly, they don't feel like a huge change, either. My old Fox a hundred years ago was significantly stiffer on the front. That's not necessarily good, it just was. Maybe the Magnaride is a bigger variable than the springs?

Anyway, over the last couple days, I feel like I've taken a nice step with the car prep. First event is late Sept, so I've still got a while. Energy Suspension is way behind on production, so who knows when I'm going to get to play with suspension bushings. At least I've got this part accomplished.

You'll need a lot more rear camber. With that much front I'd recommend -2.0 rear.

What do you mean by mid/mid? You're not running the BMR rear too, are you?

 

[TeeLew]

I just went to pick up my daughter from work and got a chance to hustle a corner. Ya, I'm gonna need that camber! The front feels strong, but the rear can't keep up. It's definitely getting too much on the sidewall.

By mid/mid I meant I was in the middle adjustment hole on the both sides of the FARB. I didn't get the rear bar. I can see going quite a bit down from where it is.

My experiment is leaving the stock rear springs for the time being. This means I've got a good bit of rake in the car. Honestly, I don't feel like it's all that soft. I'm going to run it like this for a couple months before putting the stiffer rears in. It'll be an interesting learning experience. I'm going to keep an open mind & see which I prefer.

 

[Dana Pants]

Ya, the problem with using plates like these is getting the front & rear pointing in the same direction. I'll take some pictures of my lash-up when it's finished. It will look something like this: https://nasaspeed.news/toolshed-engineer/string-alignment/?amp

I use string to set thrust angle.

Because total toe is more important than thrust angle, it should be prioritized in the measurement system to minimize tolerance stack up.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I just went to pick up my daughter from work and got a chance to hustle a corner. Ya, I'm gonna need that camber! The front feels strong, but the rear can't keep up. It's definitely getting too much on the sidewall.

By mid/mid I meant I was in the middle adjustment hole on the both sides of the FARB. I didn't get the rear bar. I can see going quite a bit down from where it is.

My experiment is leaving the stock rear springs for the time being. This means I've got a good bit of rake in the car. Honestly, I don't feel like it's all that soft. I'm going to run it like this for a couple months before putting the stiffer rears in. It'll be an interesting learning experience. I'm going to keep an open mind & see which I prefer.

You didn't go very stiff on the front spring and the HPP+HP includes a fairly stiff rear bar. If you go stiffer rear I'd pair with a GT PP or base GT bar (22.2, 21.7 mm vs your 24 mm).

 

[TeeLew]

I use string to set thrust angle.

Because total toe is more important than thrust angle, it should be prioritized in the measurement system to minimize tolerance stack up.

And using a couple janky pieces of aluminum sheet pressing against a tire sidewall is a better way to set total toe? Gotcha.

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