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Race Trailer Advice Needed, Please

DRAGOON

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See you all at the Track/Car shows next year.
I’m from up north dere hey, Road America, Autobahn CC and Blackhawk Farms are the tracks we frequent. I found this “Just Track It“ organizer that goes to tracks down south, Road Atlanta, Barber, Sebring and Robling Road. Are these the ones you would track given your future equipment because of the long distant implications ?

Sorry to OP for hijack :lipssealed:
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NeverSatisfied

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I guess I'm on the opposite end.. I've had my share of F250/F350's over the years but when the kiddos came I switched to a 2008 Sequoia Platinum 4x4. I've pulled my 24' steel Haulmark thousands of miles behind it over 14 years. I use a weight distributing hitch and sway control bars. I feel safe driving it--I just take my time and pay attention. I have no problem running 70mph on flat ground. In the hills I'm slowing down with the semis.

I have to believe a modern F150 would be just as good or better.
 

Bridgie

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I forgot to add, I use a Kurt weight distribution and anti-sway bar hitch at all times.
 

DRAGOON

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I forgot to add, I use a Kurt weight distribution and anti-sway bar hitch at all times.
Great that you added that here in this thread, I think the WDH can be advised to use not enough. They’re a wonderful tool.
I use the Camco Eaz-Lift Trekker 1200 WDH with sway control.

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Bridgie

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Without a WDH

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with WDH

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Holmes

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I tried to show what I have so I feel safe and comfortable without being too smug or a prick with money which is not the case. I was fortunate to procure my set up 5 years ago before everything went frinkin’ nuts. The car just a year ago. So yeah, it maybe not for all pocketbooks but what is possible with well spent money.
Very cool rig! Your post was very helpful. Thank you! Love the M1!
 
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I bought a stock, lightly used 20 x 8.5 enclosed earlier this year. I have a Ram 1500, which tows OK, but with the fat ass Mustang, it gets up there in weight..

I have added flooring, wall FRP panel, insulated and paneled roof, installed Shore power, cabinets and permanent tool chest, LED lighting and EZ Track.

I now stay in the trailer for weekends, Queen blowup bed, microwave, Fridge etc.. no more paying $150+ for hotels that I spend 8 hours per day in..

Let me know if you have my questions.?

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Very Cool. You ever do events with Chin at Road Atlanta? Maybe I’ll see you there?
Road Atlanta is my home track. About 50 minutes from the house.
 
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Holmes

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I’m from up north dere hey, Road America, Autobahn CC and Blackhawk Farms are the tracks we frequent. I found this “Just Track It“ organizer that goes to tracks down south, Road Atlanta, Barber, Sebring and Robling Road. Are these the ones you would track given your future equipment because of the long distant implications ?

Sorry to OP for hijack :lipssealed:
I have mainly done Barber and Road Atlanta. Barber is about 3 hours away and Road Atlanta - 50 minutes. So far I have stayed with Chin Track Days. Good group. iMO.
 

Specracer

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Having a steel 24' for around 30 years now, I would not go any smaller than a 24'. Going to the track you need tools spares etc, and 20 is just too tight. 28' would be better, but does start to get "big". We have a Raptor that we towed the 24' with for 10k miles before retiring it for a 6.7 F350. We towed street cars (no tools or spares) and a race car with spares (race car is only 1600 lbs), and I was fine with the Raptor (9k tow rating). So an S550 with spares might have been an issue weight wise, but your tow rig can handle 13k.

I would for sure get a weight distribution hitch and a sway control bar. Would also suggest front to back e track, to allow an over the wheel 3 point tie down.
https://www.truckntow.com/vulcan-ca...nch-4-pack-3-300-pound-safe-working-load.html
Yes on a winch, if your loading alone. If you have "eyes" to guide you, much faster to simply drive in (we have a car that only has 1.5" each side, from the car's wheel to the trailer wheel well, so COZY).

If I was buying "today", things I would opt for that I do not have now (if budget allowed, as trailers are inexplicably expensive), aluminum construction, and an escape door (im still small enough to get out the window, but Im not getting any younger).

And trailers can get too big, we have a 44', and it serves its purpose, (can haul 2 race or street cars), but its BIG, and is tough / impossible at smaller paddocks like Lime Rock (it wont get over the bridge, so you have to cross the track, which only happens at the end of the day).

My 2c after MANY years of going to the track, and hauling street cars many thousands of miles. Hope it helps.
 

tobaccokid

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Like much of what happens in life my opinion is that you are way overthinking this.

I am on my second trailer in a few decades. Both 20 ft enclosed basic trailers. Long ago pulled by a Jeep Grand Cherokee and now 3/4 ton pickup. First, try not to buy based on male ego (see first lien above). If you are going racing and need to carry all sorts of stuff then bigger is needed.

Here is my experience regarding balance. My cars have been a 1967 and 69 Corvette with cast iron block 427, and still today a 1968 Corvette 427 (cast iron b;lock) IMSA Trans Am race car. Much heavier front end balance percentage than your Mustang, by a mile. Zero balance problem ever - not remotely a concern; a total no brainer. My other cars are 1965 Shelby GT350's - much lighter, so not a decision factor.

I never got a drivers door access as I'm cheap. Don't need it as I can get in and out no problem, even at age 75. Plus, it's another access point. for thieves. Basic interior lights always needed.
Add the reflector strips on the sides and back that are required for tractor trailors. I added silver corner strips on the ramp top corners. Can't count the hordes of losers on the roads as one needs to be brain dead to fail a drivers test in the USA, as opposed to European tests.

Lastly, absolutely make sure you get a winch. Regarding that, do not just go by the weight of the vehicle. Easy to forget that you are pulling up hill (the ramp). I've always had no problem with a
5,000 lb winch.

A few months ago I foiled an attempted hickjacking upon leaving a major concours with one of my '65 Shelby's, a very early hand built car. Suffice it to say I won't go into any further detail on what happened other than to say I won. I wish I could advise you further in advance of situations like that since today's world is very, very dangerous as "they" do not know what you have inside, be it worth $1, or $1 million, or more. Knowledge afterwards is too late. Prior mental and ? preparation is critical. One aspect is that a longer, fancier trailer is going to attract more attacks from more bums. Sorry, but one has to understand that these days they'll kill someone for a 1$ (not kidding).

Hope this not too much. Probably more than you wanted to know but I have no idea of your experience and personal paranoia. My being pleasantly helps a great deal. Simply trying to help a fellow car guy from my experiences.

Forgot to mention that I only needed a weght distribution hitch when towing an enclosed car trailer with a lighter vehic;le, such a Jeep Grand Cherokee. With my 3/4 ton pickup I never needed my weight distribution hitch.
 
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Do not, I repeat do NOT load your car backwards on the the trailer. If you load the trailer with more weight behind the axles than in front of them you will get a crazy amount of sway, and at highways speeds this can cause you to lose control of your tow vehicle. End result will be a very bad, no good, terrible, horrible, day.

Only cars that should be backed on to a trailer are mid and rear engine cars like the C8 Corvette and 911 Porsche.
Correct, if you put the weight behind the axles, it will be a major issue. Putting the engine over the axles could help the OP, and he might have enough room if he goes with a 24' trailer.

Totally agree, weight behind axles is a major issue. I have some friends with a bumper pull toy hauler, and believe it or not, they have loaded that back bay down so much it became an issue. I am actually surprised the MFG's of those trailers don't put more warnings about weight back there.
 

SteveW

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You could be ok with a F-150, try it and maybe it will work for you just fine.

However. I just went through this with a 2022 F-150 and 28' trailer. Sold both within 6 months. If, towing over the Rocky Mountains the F-150 will drive you nuts.

Almost dangerous as the trailer in the wind will blow the truck like a Tin Can even with the weight distribution kit. Power of the F-150 was not the problem rather the chassis, suspension and brakes seem undersized for Mountain HWYs.

I got totally pissed at Fords "Load ratings" that I moved up to a Sportchassis LH5 hahaha no shit but not going over the Mountains again with a F-150. Problem solved!

Have 40' Intech Gooseneck on order. See you all at the Track/Car shows next year.

enjoy

View attachment 716943
I went from packing a tent in the Mustang when it was original, to towing a little Harbor Freight tire trailer, to open trailer with 2014 F150 EB Max Tow, to a 10k 20' enclosed with same pickup to now a 2019 F-350 6.7 DRW w/slide-in 811 camper.

So...didn't jump the shark as much as you did but things do escalate quickly, haha. I'm also grassroots autocross, not road racing so there's that too.

The F-150 sure was a sweet pickup and great to live with as a light duty pickup for home, exploring trails, light loads but man, had a tough time with 8k lbs of enclosed trailer in the winds and passes of the PNW. Plus, with either an open or enclosed trailer on the road was worried sick about theft overnight at hotels.

The dually with the 8k lb enclosed behind it and a house on its back is happy. Maybe barely touching the first overload leaf and doing just over half the work it is built for. Can sleep in rest areas or the site and not much will get past the dogs overnight.

@Holmes have you seen the Ford Towing Guides?

2019 Ford Towing Guide

The key things with Ford payload capacity, GVWR and tow ratings is they are all calculated on a base vehicle and a 150lb passenger at ea seating position. Your KR with a passenger, luggage, tools in the back and a 1000lbs of tongue weight might be maxing it out.

Be careful with which 20' trailer you look at. Most are 7k rated and depending on how heavy the trailer itself is, with a S550 Mustang inside it you won't have much headroom for things like tools and a spare tire/wheel setup. I found a 10k 20' trailer so no worries about what I stuff in there with the Mustang. Plenty of payload capacity there.
 

Biggsy

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Not sure how your driveway looks but only thing I'd be concerned about is that someome will (or will try to ) steal the trailer. Enclosed trailers get stolen all the time. I have an airtag in my open one that is stored at the locked storage area.
I fear this with a haul trailer once I start towing next year.

OG Racing is local to me and if you didn't know, one of the biggest motorsport suppliers on the east coast. I was in there in August trying out seats and I asked one of the employees about a trailer lock they advertised on their IG. He gave me a demo and said that its nearly impossible and you would need some heavy heavy machinery to cut it open but when they were testing it, I dont think it was still able to be removed from the trailer. I dont remember all the details but the $350 seems to make it worth the buy. They can give better info than I can.

https://www.ogracing.com/products/altor-saf-trailer-lock?variant=39910891225154

Edit to add:

I stand corrected :

The company that broke the lock https://www.provenlocks.com/
 
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RagmopInKona

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I am The type that buy a ramp truck/wrecker and tow it that way, bonus you now have a side gig.
Enclosed trailer, truck and car seems to become a target today. even if just sitting beside your garage or driveway.
Not many roll backs getting stolen.
 

kz

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I feel like enclosed trailer get stolen quite often - for whatever reason. My main worry is leaving truck/trailer/car for a night at a hotel parking lot - lots of the theft you hear about happens in this exact situation - when I am traveling to the event that requires overnight stay.
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