Thereās definitely a load % or RPM and time component to the equation. From a fresh reset, I can flag an oil change required message in a 2 day track event.
Scroth sells a 2 strap sub belt. I used angle brackets and eye bolts at each of the rear seat mount bolts. I slip the sub belt straps between the base and back of the seat and the clip onto the eye bolts. So I am sitting on the sub belt.
Not ideal setup and feel free to tell me Iām gonna die...
Knuckle dictates the hub you need. Hub debacle didnāt seem to start until ā21. Thereās no upgrading the hub style unless youāre changing your knuckle.
Not my experience with the many sets Iāve run on multiple car platforms. All pad compounds of Gloc make zero noise on track for me itās only when using them as not intended on street they squeal and grind
I run the titanium shims from op. I think it helps quiet them down. Theyāll get noisy, then settle down. Theyāll stick to the rotors when parked overnight after rain. You take the good with the bad. I daily on R18/R12
Solution is simple get a wheel offset that is centered for zero scrub radius and go with a narrow wheel. Once you go wide or space those wheels out for the hella flush look, the laws of physics start to take over.
Such is life when youāre not running Glocs.
Glocs have no lasting effects on wheels when wet, driven in the salt, let them sit for a month dirty. Rinse old wheels and good as new
Track time has a substantial impact
For instance my car is my track car and my daily. Iām somewhere around 8-10 sets of rotors and pads at 30k miles
My rotors are toast with cracks by the time the pads are done
Again a terrible idea to use an impact on these.
Iād lower the subframe enough I could dremmel a slot.
Put some heat into it with a torch.
Then Iād come though the subframe with an air chisel using one those flat blade attachments with a lever arm and see if I could get it to turn out with...
Those rear subframe bolts thread into sheet metal and soft threads. The bolts are shaped like a thread tap. Itās like they designed it to cross thread.
If you only started them by hand for a few threads then hit them with some 800lb/ft air gun even for a couple Ugga duggas that could way over...
I have all the tools and know how and Iād still buy a complete diff and swap it. By the time you buy gears, bearings, borrow all the tools, do the work, bugger the pinion seal on install, reinstall, find drips on your floor, do the whole job over again, etc,
youāll save yourself a ton of time...