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GT350 Engine Refresh Time!
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bauern
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I think the PTWA coating is only .004" - .005" thick.
If you wanted to try it, you can send your pistons out for an abradable powder coating, works like the coating on the J&E pistons and costs about $32./piston.
AceOne
Well-Known Member
OEM big ends were 457 ish and small were 155 +/- and total were 611 My next set came in with some as much as 617 though. It was hard to take even 2 grams off though...no pads to grind on the OEM rods and the tapered small end really worried me..Yes. New unbalanced. I don't have the numbers from the machinist, I'll have to get them. The front weight took a small amount of mallory the rear a larger one. This is the weight card for the rods:
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honeybadger
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- #109
Do you mind providing more context? How does abradable powder coat on a piston affect the PWTA costing on the cylinders bore and Ford recommendation of not honing the cylinder bored?
Offboost
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https://www.fordnxt.com/tech-storie...reates-a-four-digit-capable-5-2-liter-engine/
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AceOne
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you can hone it...just don't exceed 94.015mm which should be 3.701377 inches. Engine builder just needs the pistons in hand to get the proper clearances.
bauern
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Sorry didn't mean to imply that the two were related, only that with a light hone the coating would make up for the increase bore dia.; but thinking further, stock rings don't come file fit and a hone would probably open the ring gaps too wide.
cjgt350
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I didn't think the PTWA thermal sprayed cylinder walls could be honed and retain their properties. But I am just not sure either.
Something else to consider as I know I would is REM treatment or Isotropic Superfinishing on the crank and the OPG a the very least. I have had a T56 Magnum and diff gears done. Many race teams have those and their engine components treated. It is not that expensive actually. I am sure there is a vendor in the Houston area. I have one local to me yet he does race car parts engine, trans and diff components from all over the world. Ferrari's production engines all have REM treated crankshafts as just one example.
Read all about it here if you are not familiar:
https://www.remchem.com/services/isf-process/
Something else to consider as I know I would is REM treatment or Isotropic Superfinishing on the crank and the OPG a the very least. I have had a T56 Magnum and diff gears done. Many race teams have those and their engine components treated. It is not that expensive actually. I am sure there is a vendor in the Houston area. I have one local to me yet he does race car parts engine, trans and diff components from all over the world. Ferrari's production engines all have REM treated crankshafts as just one example.
Read all about it here if you are not familiar:
https://www.remchem.com/services/isf-process/
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honeybadger
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No worries at all. I just didn't understand the connection so was hoping you could help. It makes sense .
Did you need to gap the rings at all? Or were they correct out of the box for you?
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honeybadger
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- #115
Was just talking to my dad about this. He has a friend in Spokane, WA that does it. Too bad it's so far away now. I'll have to look around.
Having a hard time drawing the line on this refresh. Trying not to go overboard. Hard to identify what's worth it and what is a bit overkill .
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honeybadger
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- #117
Mime definitely does NOT have billet oil pump gears or crank sprocket
AceOne
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Article was wrong...Voodoo does not have Billet OPG. I believe Ford Performance started doing them in the Super CJ cars. FR does offer a set for purchase now though and I think I heard it can be a dealer installed option, maybe. I installed Boundry 4340 billet gears in my current one and am waiting on another set along with the crank sprocket from them. I think I got the billet Crank sproket form MPR for my current 5.2.
AceOne
Well-Known Member
=
This is why you need to decide what you will really do with the car and how much HP you will want to make...this will tell you what you need to upgrade and to what level,
Mine current 5.2 is very stout and has lived for two race seasons at 500+ hp level with another 125 shot of nitrous used on occasion. It has mostly stock components. Stock main bolts and stock head bolts. I use old bolts to do the torque plates when it s honed or the rings are measured and only install a fresh set of OEM bolts with lube and torque them for the head install. I am looking into studs now for this engine. they get pricey!! This is still not a full FI fire breathing motor build...yet! Twins someday are coming. So far 600+ hp and 500 torque is really nice and pull like a SC car but without all the extra weight and no extra heat issues. I'm 3600 # and 615 crank hp now. better Power to weight ratio than a Hellcat!
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honeybadger
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Not chasing power this time around. Really looking for an engine I can continue to beat the snot out of for another 2-3 years before I get serious about building an NA monster. Stock power is fine. I won’t argue with more if it comes with better reliability and doesn’t make it temperamental.
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