GT350 Engine Refresh Time!

[honeybadger]

Just an FYI for anyone who wants to casually carry around their crank - make sure you either dry it off or use towels. Crank + engine oil turns into a weirdly shaped projectile on a mission to crush your toes.

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[AdamIsAdam]

Just an FYI for anyone who wants to casually carry around their crank - make sure you either dry it off or use towels. Crank + engine oil turns into a weirdly shaped projectile on a mission to crush your toes.

I was just wondering about that! You better wipe the oil off that scale too before your wife hops on it.

 

[Tomster]

(wife) KEVIN!!

(Kevin) Yes dear....

(wife) Have you seen the bathroom scale???

(Kevin) Uh, er, um...…

At least that's the way it works around my place. She calls me Tommy tornado.

sorry for the interruption

 

[AdamIsAdam]

 

[Offboost]

Screw it lets puts some titanium rods and lightweight pistons in and lighten the crank up and spin the bitch up to 9K and make those 4 liter Porsches jealous!

 

[honeybadger]

(wife) KEVIN!!

(Kevin) Yes dear....

(wife) Have you seen the bathroom scale???

(Kevin) In the garage

(wife)

Fixed it for you

 

[oldbmwfan]

(wife) KEVIN!!

(Kevin) Yes dear....

(wife) Have you seen the bathroom scale???

(Kevin) Uh, er, um...…

At least that's the way it works around my place. She calls me Tommy tornado.

sorry for the interruption

Oh you mean he took the scale to the garage instead of taking the crank to the bathroom?

I just assumed HB is hardcore enough to have a speckled epoxy floor in the bathroom.

 

[honeybadger]

Alright ya'll. Been talking with Tim at MPR about the bottom end and about PWTA coatings, Ford OEM block tolerances, etc. Some very interesting insights.

So from what I've been to gather/learn, Ford removed about 8lbs of material from the Voodoo block in order to reduce weight. They compensated the material removal with the PWTA coating to add durability. But once the PWTA coating is worn through, the block is a throwaway (direction from Ford) unless you sleeve it. Honing is never recommended. Tim at MPR echoed this statement.

Additionally, Tim also mentioned that the OEM blocks have some inconsistency in bore spacing (not their round-ness, but where they are on the block face) due to the way they're machined. Bores that aren't in the right relocation will of course add additional wear/tear on the rotating assembly since things are slightly out of alignment.

Per Tim, sleeving the block gives him the chance to use his CNC machine to correct bores that might be a couple thousands off, add a good amount of strength, and make rebuilding easier. If going down this path, Tim also recommends a specific set of pistons (Custom Diamond pistons) and Callies Ultra Billet connecting rods due their weight. He says they're the only ones he can balance to the FPC (doesn't require him to add weight to the crank). Has a few other things he recommends (coatings, etc.).

All in all, it comes out to a $8,700 investment.

The plan with HB was always to build a proper race car. So part of me thinks this is a good time to do it. Another part of me is slapping the other part of me for even considering it.

 

[EF300]

Time to go plaid man. Be a mustang6g legend !

 

[Darkane]

Oh man, that looks delicious.

So what CR are we looking at? 8500rpms??

 

[Tomster]

You might have to sell one of your kidneys. And what does it get you? Another 40 track hours give or take?

 

[Offboost]

Alright ya'll. Been talking with Tim at MPR about the bottom end and about PWTA coatings, Ford OEM block tolerances, etc. Some very interesting insights.

So from what I've been to gather/learn, Ford removed about 8lbs of material from the Voodoo block in order to reduce weight. They compensated the material removal with the PWTA coating to add durability. But once the PWTA coating is worn through, the block is a throwaway (direction from Ford) unless you sleeve it. Honing is never recommended. Tim at MPR echoed this statement.

Additionally, Tim also mentioned that the OEM blocks have some inconsistency in bore spacing (not their round-ness, but where they are on the block face) due to the way they're machined. Bores that aren't in the right relocation will of course add additional wear/tear on the rotating assembly since things are slightly out of alignment.

Per Tim, sleeving the block gives him the chance to use his CNC machine to correct bores that might be a couple thousands off, add a good amount of strength, and make rebuilding easier. If going down this path, Tim also recommends a specific set of pistons (Custom Diamond pistons) and Callies Ultra Billet connecting rods due their weight. He says they're the only ones he can balance to the FPC (doesn't require him to add weight to the crank). Has a few other things he recommends (coatings, etc.).

All in all, it comes out to a $8,700 investment.

The plan with HB was always to build a proper race car. So part of me thinks this is a good time to do it. Another part of me is slapping the other part of me for even considering it.

Hey HB

Just curious if they have any dyno sheets on any of the engines they have done with FPC?
Seems to me anyone who did this would have posted something about this in the past unless they are sandbagging and keeping on the dowm low.

Not doubting but i think a lot of have never heard of but just a couple of engines built for boost not NA road race engines with FPCs.

 

[honeybadger]

Oh man, that looks delicious.

So what CR are we looking at? 8500rpms??

CR? Maybe its late and me brain stopped working

You might have to sell one of your kidneys.

I offered it as a form of payment. He didn't bite

Hey HB

Just curious if they have any dyno sheets on any of the engines they have done with FPC?
Seems to me anyone who did this would have posted something about this in the past unless they are sandbagging and keeping on the dowm low.

Not doubting but i think a lot of have never heard of but just a couple of engines built for boost not NA road race engines with FPCs.

Most of them are built for the strip from what I've heard. I know there are a few being built N/A road course use, but the ones I know of are just getting finished. I can ask him when I call tomorrow to follow-up.

 

[Tomster]

I know you don't care about a matching numbers car, but now you've got me thinking. I need to start looking around for a donor voodoo. For the numbers (and time) you are talking to do a no holds barred rebuild, you are just about at the cost of a low miles street driven motor on a crate.

 

[Offboost]

Most of them are built for the strip from what I've heard. I know there are a few being built N/A road course use, but the ones I know of are just getting finished. I can ask him when I call tomorrow to follow-up.[/QUOTE]


Ok that makes sense if they could provide dyno sheets that would be awesome!

As cool as all this sounds I think you should just assemble it with fresh bearings rings and your upgraded heads and valve springs. As you said from the beginning keep it simple.

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