GT350 Engine Refresh Time!

[honeybadger]

I know you don't care about a matching numbers car, but now you've got me thinking. I need to start looking around for a donor voodoo. For the numbers (and time) you are talking to do a no holds barred rebuild, you are just about at the cost of a low miles street driven motor on a crate.

Thought about this. But in my case I think I build this and then refresh it for about the cost it would take to get a crate motor/used setup. And I'd know this one's history. But not be a bad idea for you if the numbers matching is important.

HB is too trashed already for me to worry about it

Sponsored

 

[firestarter2]

You might have to sell one of your kidneys. And what does it get you? Another 40 track hours give or take?

This. What's the return on investment how much life is realistic. I must of missed it but why didn't you warranty claim the damage?

 

[honeybadger]

Ok that makes sense if they could provide dyno sheets that would be awesome!

As cool as all this sounds I think you should just assemble it with fresh bearings rings and your upgraded heads and valve springs. As you said from the beginning keep it simple.

I'll ask both MPR and RGR to see what they say.

I was all for your recommendation until I learned more about the "slop" in the OEM blocks along with the added difficulties of the PWTA coating. Explains some of the oil consumption problems folks have had.

 

[honeybadger]

This. What's the return on investment how much life is realistic. I must of missed it but why didn't you warranty claim the damage?

Unanswerable. Too many variables... Only thing the builders can tell you is that the engine will have more stout internals, be better balanced, and specifically designed for the use case (in my case, track abuse). This means it'd be more equipped to handle tougher conditions. What will that translate to for me? Who knows. Could be a couple of extra months, could be a couple of extra years.

In regards to warranty - got tired of dealing with the system. Wasn't worth anymore lost time letting dealers work on the car (and joy ride it - yes I have a video too).

 

[Offboost]

You might have to sell one of your kidneys. And what does it get you? Another 40 track hours give or take?

I am on dialysis 3 times a week and would trade everything I have including my R for working kidneys!

 

[bauern]

I'll ask both MPR and RGR to see what they say.

I was all for your recommendation until I learned more about the "slop" in the OEM blocks along with the added difficulties of the PWTA coating. Explains some of the oil consumption problems folks have had.

Would you mind asking them if they recommend keeping the oil squirters? Aftermarket pistons seem to have larger clearances and wider ring gaps so I wonder how they play with the oil jets.

 

[Offboost]

I was all for your recommendation until I learned more about the "slop" in the OEM blocks along with the added difficulties of the PWTA coating. Explains some of the oil consumption problems folks have had.[/QUOTE]

Any engine builder will always be able to find fault with a factory stock engine does not mean the “slop” is actually hurting anything. Anything can always be improved but sometimes the “slop” will prevent it from seizing if clearances are too tight. Just my 2 cents but I am sure no matter what way you go you will be happy.

 

[Tractor Junk]

HB,

I’ve really enjoyed your build threads. I’m sympathetic to your attraction to doing the “overkill” shortblock treatment, but in this case I’d skip it... and I love overkill.

From my racing experience, the cost increase of a premium build gets you declining marginal benefit. And fast. That is, you’ll spend a lot to get a slight increase in engine life. There’s no doubt that this builder does great work, but you’ll be climbing the steep side of the “dollar per reliability increase” curve.

Good luck either way. You’re a madman in a good way.

 

[sublime1996525]

Thread of the year.

 

[honeybadger]

HB,

I’ve really enjoyed your build threads. I’m sympathetic to your attraction to doing the “overkill” shortblock treatment, but in this case I’d skip it... and I love overkill.

From my racing experience, the cost increase of a premium build gets you declining marginal benefit. And fast. That is, you’ll spend a lot to get a slight increase in engine life. There’s no doubt that this builder does great work, but you’ll be climbing the steep side of the “dollar per reliability increase” curve.

Good luck either way. You’re a madman in a good way.

Would love to hear more of your insight if you don't mind. Any personal experience to share? Not many have experience traveling down this path of insanity

One other consideration for me in addition to potentially increased life is an increase in reliability within the expected life. I expect to tear into this engine yearly to look things over regardless of path I choose. Just the way I am wired (for some sick reason).

If the overkill path makes this engine bulletproof in between refreshes, that seems worth consideration. Curious to hear your thoughts.

 

[AceOne]

Just an FYI for anyone who wants to casually carry around their crank - make sure you either dry it off or use towels. Crank + engine oil turns into a weirdly shaped projectile on a mission to crush your toes.

I believe its also best to store them in vertical position. That is probably for long term storage, just make sure they are coated and sealed up well and secured from falling, That would also put a major hurting on a toe!!

 

[Darkane]

CR? Maybe its late and me brain stopped working



I offered it as a form of payment. He didn't bite



Most of them are built for the strip from what I've heard. I know there are a few being built N/A road course use, but the ones I know of are just getting finished. I can ask him when I call tomorrow to follow-up.

CR: Compression Ratio

 

[honeybadger]

CR: Compression Ratio

Oye. Should have known that. Same as OEM 12:1. Looking for no fuss this time around

 

[AceOne]

I was all for your recommendation until I learned more about the "slop" in the OEM blocks along with the added difficulties of the PWTA coating. Explains some of the oil consumption problems folks have had.

Any engine builder will always be able to find fault with a factory stock engine does not mean the “slop” is actually hurting anything. Anything can always be improved but sometimes the “slop” will prevent it from seizing if clearances are too tight. Just my 2 cents but I am sure no matter what way you go you will be happy.[/QUOTE]

I definitely agree with the above statement. Specs can always be improved by top biuilders but to what cost and benefit? I have been pleasantly pleased with my 5.2 build and can tell you that 500+ whp with a very good tune (requires remapping the torque demand tables and VCT tables) is very very competitive and tons of fun on rd course. I wish it was already torn down for inspection but one of the reasons I decided to build a whole new motor is to avoid down time. When I built it two years ago I had hoped it would last at least a full season, but it is starting its 3rd season and still seams to be perfectly fine. I will try to get the compression test done this week. BTW I won the local AutoX this weekend and the cas was hitting the rev limit at 8200 in 2nd gear 3 times on each of the 4 runs I made. I had fastest time of day beating the modded C6 Z06 that typically get the fastest time of day. got him by .5 seconds. Motor was strong the whole event.


HB I really think you can easily go overboard on the engine rebuild costs. If you were going boost or nitrous use than its probably much more necessary to go full tilt on rebuild.

I say that now based on performance of my build.

 

[oldbmwfan]

Rings, bearings, valvetrain, done. Seriously. You have a LOT of life left in that motor without shelling out $10k more.

Sponsored