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Grabber Lime 2020 GT Build Thread

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WD Pro

WD Pro

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:giggle:

Anyhow, back in the world of mustangs :

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Nice one Ford …

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:facepalm:

Something about that uneven discolouration says ‘I like track mode’ lol :

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An extra 8mm taken from here :

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Quite pleased for a hand cut :

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The seams were very proud on my exhaust, I guess that’s not good for the sleeve clamps :

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Another 8mm off the front of the H pipe :

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That should be enough to keep the exhaust loom off the frame rail :like:

Lots of thinners (and time) later, things are starting to look a little better :

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Tried a little bit of glass bead blasting on the centre resonator - I think the tailpipes will get masked off and the rest of the system will get blasted :like:

WD :like:
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StangTime

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Interested to know what you think of the H pipe on the active exhaust. I've been thinking about getting the Steeda one too. I like the sound of my car with the AE but going a little deeper wouldn't be a bad thing. I am concerned about making it dron or too loud. There is supposed to be some low end torque gains with the H. Did you have help removing the exhaust? I would have to do it solo in a single car garage on jack stands.
 

Supersolo

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Interested to know what you think of the H pipe on the active exhaust. I've been thinking about getting the Steeda one too. I like the sound of my car with the AE but going a little deeper wouldn't be a bad thing. I am concerned about making it dron or too loud. There is supposed to be some low end torque gains with the H. Did you have help removing the exhaust? I would have to do it solo in a single car garage on jack stands.
I have the 'H' pipe, really wanted the 'X' pipe, but time was a factor.

The resonance is most noticeable, with valves open & it's not pleasant, imo. If I had the time, I'd look into fitting GT500 resonators & the 'X' section.

But yes, there is audible resonance with the 'H' pipe, only at a certain point in the rev range. Which I tend to blast through, so it's momentary.
 

raptor17GT

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i've heard an H pipe on the ford AE and it sounded great idling and driveby but no experience of being in the car for any droning effects.
 

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Where did you measure from as the original ends didn’t look that straight to begin with.
 

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I've had an H-pipe on my wishlist in my Steeda account for quite some time, but I'm afraid to place the order because I'm not sure I'll like it. All the video clips I could find seem to feature US vehicles, and I'm not sure whether Euro/UK and US vehicles share the same mufflers. The Steeda H-pipe sounds great in videos, but what if the Euro mufflers are different and it won't sound like that? 🤔
 

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I’m pretty sure the part numbers are stamped into the muffler casings. Maybe WD can check his and you could ask on the American side if anyone has the numbers off theirs ?
 

StangTime

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I have the 'H' pipe, really wanted the 'X' pipe, but time was a factor.

The resonance is most noticeable, with valves open & it's not pleasant, imo. If I had the time, I'd look into fitting GT500 resonators & the 'X' section.

But yes, there is audible resonance with the 'H' pipe, only at a certain point in the rev range. Which I tend to blast through, so it's momentary.
Thank you for this info. I think I'll keep the factory suitcase resonator in that case. Otherwise the drone would bother me.
 

Arashk998

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Thank you for this info. I think I'll keep the factory suitcase resonator in that case. Otherwise the drone would bother me.
Also installed the H-pipe after 5000miles and the drone is only noticeable personally with track mode on highway driving.
 

Supersolo

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Thank you for this info. I think I'll keep the factory suitcase resonator in that case. Otherwise the drone would bother me.
It's not a continuous drone, but a temporary buzz/tizz, at a very specific/narrow region of the rev range, which at full-chat I blast through in a second.

Furthermore, it doesn't occur at the speeds I cruise at, ie, 65-70mph. So I'm good there, no drone and I'm cruising at a legal speed.

Now, I will say, I have other exhaust mods which will affect my results, but the 'H' pipe, at idle is nice, It has that choppy, metallicy, clinky, idle that can only be a modified, American V8. I like it, but I suspect an 'X' pipe would be better for performance.
But with >700 crank, I'll settle for the sound I have, it's cool.

By contrast, while the Mustang was my second car (now it's my daily), I had an A4 3.2 as my daily.
It had a sweet revving V6, which sounded good, but was too quiet.
So, I removed the helm-holtz silencers at the rear of the exhaust and replaced them with some power-flow, silencers.
Boy! was that a mistake. That fecker would drone like a muther at 60, even worse in the rain.
It would rattle the windows out of the car. It sounded glorious in the dry and at higher revs, but around legal M-way cruising speeds, it droned like you would not believe.

So there you have it, I've had a car which I shouldn't have removed the OEM resonators from, and it was a big mistake. However, with the Mustang it's worked out Ok, a temporary buzz, and only in race mode (valves fully open). In Sport+ or normal mode, it's all good.
YMMV.

EDIT:
Above I write that In Sport+ it will be Ok, but I forgot that sport+ mode is fully open exhaust.
I should have written that when I switch to sport+ I then switch the exhaust from open to "normal", then, it's all good, sorry, I should have been more specific.
Apologies.

So:
Replace suitcase with 'H' pipe+open exhaust valves = narrow region of revs with buzz/tizz, ime.
Replace suitcase with 'H' pipe+exhaust valves set to normal = all good.
:whew:
 
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StangTime

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It's not a continuous drone, but a temporary buzz/tizz, at a very specific/narrow region of the rev range, which at full-chat I blast through in a second.

Furthermore, it doesn't occur at the speeds I cruise at, ie, 65-70mph. So I'm good there, no drone and I'm cruising at a legal speed.

Now, I will say, I have other exhaust mods which will affect my results, but the 'H' pipe, at idle is nice, It has that choppy, metallicy, clinky, idle that can only be a modified, American V8. I like it, but I suspect an 'X' pipe would be better for performance.
But with >700 crank, I'll settle for the sound I have, it's cool.

By contrast, while the Mustang was my second car (now it's my daily), I had an A4 3.2 as my daily.
It had a sweet revving V6, which sounded good, but was too quiet.
So, I removed the helm-holtz silencers at the rear of the exhaust and replaced them with some power-flow, silencers.
Boy! was that a mistake. That fecker would drone like a muther at 60, even worse in the rain.
It would rattle the windows out of the car. It sounded glorious in the dry and at higher revs, but around legal M-way cruising speeds, it droned like you would not believe.

So there you have it, I've had a car which I shouldn't have removed the OEM resonators from, and it was a big mistake. However, with the Mustang it's worked out Ok, a temporary buzz, and only in race mode (valves fully open). In Sport+ or normal mode, it's all good.
YMMV.
Thank you for this info. Not in a hurry to change it out so let's see what @WD Pro thinks of his when he gets it installed. I don't want to clutter up his build thread.
 
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Would like to hear your expanded thoughts on the Ryobi.

Absolutely perfect with the application of Perl, probably the best product for the PS4S's. :clap:
I really like it :like:

All my comparisons are to a Porter Cable :
  • Ryobi (although bigger) feels nicer and easier to manoeuvre, maybe because it’s not got a cable hanging out of its arse ?
  • PC has more correction ability.
  • Ryobi wins on simplicity for quick jobs and touch ups (I’m much more likely to get it out then the PC, transformer, and the extension etc. It almost makes the PC seem like a chore …
  • To be honest, now I have 2 x 5A and 2 x 2A batteries and the paint work on the stang is good, I don’t think the stang will ever see the PC.
  • If you’ve already got Ryobi tools and batteries, it’s almost a no brainier for the cost of it in the U.K. :like:
Ref. Perl, the jury is still out for me. I like it, but it seems like a lot of work to get it to where I like it and keep it there. Now I’ve learnt how to use Perl and up until loosing my car, I’ve been experimenting with another and getting comparable results with less time and maintenance - I will keep you posted :like:

Interested to know what you think of the H pipe on the active exhaust. I've been thinking about getting the Steeda one too. I like the sound of my car with the AE but going a little deeper wouldn't be a bad thing. I am concerned about making it dron or too loud. There is supposed to be some low end torque gains with the H. Did you have help removing the exhaust? I would have to do it solo in a single car garage on jack stands.
Really looking forward to getting this on … :like:

I’ve had it for ages, but a recent experience pushed me to do it.

I was at a local car show and a mustang arrived that sounded ‘really’ sweet. It drove past me and I spotted black tailpipes, so I dismissed it as a full replacement pipe. Talking to the owner afterwards it turns out they were black tail trims, standard AE and a H pipe …

I know you have some feedback above now, but there are a few others on here with a H pipe on a euro, maybe they could comment :

@Nodster
@philmil (who’s car I heard)

I had read a theory on here that verts were worse for drone as were autos - something to do with certain cruising speeds and RPM that the auto likes to hold at those speeds.

The overwhelming majority seem to rave about the H pipe :like:

Where did you measure from as the original ends didn’t look that straight to begin with.
Out of character for me, I’d already started with the grinder before remembering to take that photo … lol. The pipes were straight and manufactured well before I measured and taped up :like:

Oh yeah, the bead blasting of the exhaust has escalated somewhat, I dropped it off for ceramic coating* after work today … :facepalm:

* ceramic coating as in the thermal barrier type coating, not the ‘oh look at the water beads’ type coating … :giggle:

Well, at least it will look nice, be tough, long lasting and save me adding heat wrap around the diff … :like:

WD :like:
 

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I was out in the car on Sunday for an hour and a half, town and motorway driving — I was doing the latest sync and maps update from cyanlabs. Various gears and rpm ranges. I don't know if there is any drone or not. I certainly didn't get back in afterwards thinking, man that drone was annoying. I enjoyed the whole drive. All done in track mode as well. Perhaps it's quite narrow as mentioned so it's gone before you really know it. Not sure. But I love the sound. Shame about the rubbish steeda clamps!
 
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I love the sound. Shame about the rubbish steeda clamps!
I know you’ve seen this on the other thread, but I will add the info here too :

—————————————————————

Just a note for the UK guys who are looking for better clamps :like:

I struggled to find the Norma / Torca clamps over here, but after a little digging :

https://turbozentrum.co.uk/Exhaust-...MI7r6PqsHh-QIVMFmkBB1gIwMgEAEYASACEgI5X_D_BwE

They only had one in stock, but they offered an alternative from 'Boost Products' :

https://turbozentrum.co.uk/Exhaust-sleeve-clamp-HQ-long-635-mm-BOOST-products

Turns out TurboZentrum was very close to my third office so I took a trip in to compare the products.

When we viewed the two products side by side we both agreed, one had defo copied the other. The design of the stainless clamp (even down to the keyways on the internal sleeve) was absolutely identical, maybe even from the same tooling. The only difference between them was the name stamps on the outside of the camp and the make of the bolts and hardware (although the design is the same with oval headed splined 10.9 bolts).

Some photos compared to the Steeda clamps :

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The Norma clamp was in 'Vibrant' packaging - I think that's the same make as the little muffles that get mentioned on here quite a lot ?

Note I am in no way linked with this company, just offering up what I found and giving the UK guys a potential option - BUT, when I turned up to check out the stock, there was a 17 mustang outside who belonged to the guy that served me. Nice chap, we had a good chat and he gave me a little discount on the sale, so that's a big thumbs up from me :sunglasses:

—————————————————————

Since then I swapped the nuts and washers out for stainless - I used some extra deep nuts to suit the long studs and regain some strength from swapping the nut material :

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WD :like:
 

DFB5.0

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I really like it :like:

All my comparisons are to a Porter Cable :
  • Ryobi (although bigger) feels nicer and easier to manoeuvre, maybe because it’s not got a cable hanging out of its arse ?
  • PC has more correction ability.
  • Ryobi wins on simplicity for quick jobs and touch ups (I’m much more likely to get it out then the PC, transformer, and the extension etc. It almost makes the PC seem like a chore …
  • To be honest, now I have 2 x 5A and 2 x 2A batteries and the paint work on the stang is good, I don’t think the stang will ever see the PC.
  • If you’ve already got Ryobi tools and batteries, it’s almost a no brainier for the cost of it in the U.K. :like:
Ref. Perl, the jury is still out for me. I like it, but it seems like a lot of work to get it to where I like it and keep it there. Now I’ve learnt how to use Perl and up until loosing my car, I’ve been experimenting with another and getting comparable results with less time and maintenance - I will keep you posted :like:
My first polisher was something similar -

apr271.jpg


Had it for about 10 years but have not used it since making the switch to battery powered machines. I actually kept the old polisher "just in case" but have never needed it or been left wanted from the battery machines.
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