BBQ tick - another attempt to understand

[accel]

I agree. I had the tick really bad. But 3,000 miles later, 1 full bottle made all typewriter ticking go away.

Still have a slight 2k rattle though.

And then there's another youtuber who had pretty bad tick, then ceratec for 3000+ miles, then switched to 5w30 with no ceratec and the tick (so far) is gone. You know who I mean as I saw your comment in his video.

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[Condor1970]

For real... It''s out of hand now/

Mechanical fact - scored cylinder walls effect compression, you will also be eating up oil. I have seen so many posts with people claiming the dealer said or they think they have scored cylinders, but no mention of any additional oil consumption, oil analysis are coming back GOOD from others with the tick... Add that up folks. It's pretty damn obvious. Get a compression test done and ask to see the results or be there while they do it before you have a dealer swapping out a perfectly good engine.

This is why I'm not too worried at the moment. I've found nothing in the oil filter, no loss of power, and almost zero oil consumption for the last 3,000 miles.

 

[stangman638]

This is why I'm not too worried at the moment. I've found nothing in the oil filter, no loss of power, and almost zero oil consumption for the last 3,000 miles.

Neither am I, if anything it has became nearly non-existent after putting 300 miles on the new oil fully syn with no XL-17 in the car.

 

[Timeless]

So after 35 pages, is there a consensus of any nature as to the best option for new car owners like myself?

I'm at about 1100 miles now and from what I've read here so far seems I should do the following:

Keep the current factory fill for at least 2500 miles (I usually change new car oil at 1500).
When changing oil go to a heavier weight (5w30 instead of 5w20).
Brand of oil seems to not matter much as long as it meets Ford specs (seems Pennz Plat is mentioned a LOT).
Ceratec or Moly Maybe.....not sure on this yet as preventative measure.

I know I know...but what would you do?

 

[ValidusTalon]

I know I know...but what would you do?

Having been through it a bit myself, what I would do now looking back is:

1) Replace the factory fill whenever you want, or when the indicator says so... I'd do it at 1K miles, and use 5W30 (personal preference) of your favorite type. I don't think this helps the "tick" at all, is purely my personal preference.

2) Substitute enough of the new oil w/1 bottle of Ceratec... dump it in, the whole thing, call it preventative, enjoy a tick-free life (most likely). I was an early(er) adopter, and now many months later don't give it a second thought. The "tick" irritated the hell out of me, probably due in part to this and similar threads.... living tick-free is a nice place to be

Again, just my personal preference....

 

[accel]

Having been through it a bit myself, what I would do now looking back is:

1) Replace the factory fill whenever you want, or when the indicator says so... I'd do it at 1K miles, and use 5W30 (personal preference) of your favorite type. I don't think this helps the "tick" at all, is purely my personal preference.

2) Substitute enough of the new oil w/1 bottle of Ceratec... dump it in, the whole thing, call it preventative, enjoy a tick-free life (most likely). I was an early(er) adopter, and now many months later don't give it a second thought. The "tick" irritated the hell out of me, probably due in part to this and similar threads.... living tick-free is a nice place to be

Again, just my personal preference....

I'm also inclined to use ceratec preventatively. Amount of personal time being spent on all these abnormal noises is just ridiculous.

Probably one full ceratec bottle first use and 1/3-1/2 bottle for consecutive oil changes.

 

[Jonyxz]

So after 35 pages, is there a consensus of any nature as to the best option for new car owners like myself?

I'm at about 1100 miles now and from what I've read here so far seems I should do the following:

Keep the current factory fill for at least 2500 miles (I usually change new car oil at 1500).
When changing oil go to a heavier weight (5w30 instead of 5w20).
Brand of oil seems to not matter much as long as it meets Ford specs (seems Pennz Plat is mentioned a LOT).
Ceratec or Moly Maybe.....not sure on this yet as preventative measure.

I know I know...but what would you do?

I'm on 360 miles, been rowing through these pages since the day I bought the car...enough to make me a bit paranoid.

Ordered a Ceratec bottle yesterday and plan to use it as soon as I get it with the factory fill.

At 2k ish miles I'll change oil to PUP, probably 5w30 as I live in tropical climate(would keep it 5w20 if I lived in continental US).

Still not sure if adding the a/c tensioner arm for the gen1 is a right move or not...I hear a slight whistle when releasing gas, could that be that belt?

 

[stangman638]

I'm on 360 miles, been rowing through these pages since the day I bought the car...enough to make me a bit paranoid.

Ordered a Ceratec bottle yesterday and plan to use it as soon as I get it with the factory fill.

At 2k ish miles I'll change oil to PUP, probably 5w30 as I live in tropical climate(would keep it 5w20 if I lived in continental US).

Still not sure if adding the a/c tensioner arm for the gen1 is a right move or not...I hear a slight whistle when releasing gas, could that be that belt?

 

[GT Pony]

Yep, one of the best ways to monitor the engine's health and wear is to cut open the oil filter (with a proper tool to NOT contaminate the filter from cutting) and look for abnormal levels of metal (ie, more than 3 or 4 small flakes of aluminum) caught down in the filter pleats. If you see more than just a few super small pieces of metal debris something is abnormally wearing out. I cut the oil filter open on mine at the first oil change and didn't see anything more than a couple small pieces of aluminum in the filter. I've cut open oil filters on cars with 50,000+ miles and still might see a couple small pieces on even a broken in engine ... that's normal. But if you see dozens of pieces of small metal flakes something is going on.

What amazes me is that Ford can probably do something with the design or manufacturing of the Coyote to ensure none of them tick or make abnormal noises. Can you imaging how much love the Mustang would have if the engines were all quiet running like they should be. Not to mention all the warranty and buy-back headaches it would save for Ford and everyone else.

 

[Jonyxz]

What amazes me is that Ford can probably do something with the design or manufacturing of the Coyote to ensure none of them tick or make abnormal noises. Can you imaging how much love the Mustang would have if the engines were all quiet running like they should be. Not to mention all the warranty and buy-back headaches it would save for Ford and everyone else.

What amazes me even more is the amount of hate this lovely car is getting from the internet for this damn bbq tick.
The truth is not clear beside dealers benefiting from the warranty interventions. But watching youtube and reading comment seems like all 18-19 mustangs have an issue and are all about to have some catastrophic failure.
To me it feels like people are onto a social media rampage to destroy the mustang's name and hold back new customers.

Ford needs to step up and cut this crap asap.

 

[GT Pony]

What amazes me even more is the amount of hate this lovely car is getting from the internet for this damn bbq tick.
The truth is not clear beside dealers benefiting from the warranty interventions. But watching youtube and reading comment seems like all 18-19 mustangs have an issue and are all about to have some catastrophic failure.
To me it feels like people are onto a social media rampage to destroy the mustang's name and hold back new customers.

Ford needs to step up and cut this crap asap.

To tell you the truth, I certainly wouldn't be happy with an engine making abnormal noises. They all don't do it, so it's obviously not "normal".

If I had as many headaches as some of the guys here I'd probably get rid of my Mustang and never buy another one - Ford, are you listening because that's what's happening in many cases. Not to mention people reading about this stuff while researching a purchase of a Mustang ... I'm sure it turns potential buyers from a purchase.

I've never seen any other car manufacture have so much variation in how the same engine sounds - most likely due to sloppy production and lack of some QA. It hurts Ford in many ways IMO. I'd love to work for Ford and have some involvement in finding a design and/or production fix.

 

[Nomadic]

To tell you the truth, I certainly wouldn't be happy with an engine making abnormal noises. They all don't do it, so it's obviously not "normal".

If I had as many headaches as some of the guys here I'd probably get rid of my Mustang and never buy another one - Ford, are you listening because that's what's happening in many cases. Not to mention people reading about this stuff while researching a purchase of a Mustang ... I'm sure it turns potential buyers from a purchase.

I've never seen any other car manufacture have so much variation in how the same engine sounds - most likely due to sloppy production and lack of some QA. It hurts Ford in many ways IMO. I'd love to work for Ford and have some involvement in finding a design and/or production fix.

Agreed. I have 500 mi on my ' 19 GT. I don't put a lot of miles on it....maybe 600/mo. No issues so far, I'll probably add the Ceratec as a preventative at 1st oil change.

 

[Catax]

I've had 3 different 18+ GTs for rental cars in the past couple of months; was traveling for work and hit status. I've made the effort to check and see if any of them had the tick/rattle and none of them did. They're all actually quieter than mine. Makes me think this issue isn't actually that prevalent.

 

[stangman638]

I've had 3 different 18+ GTs for rental cars in the past couple of months; was traveling for work and hit status. I've made the effort to check and see if any of them had the tick/rattle and none of them did. They're all actually quieter than mine. Makes me think this issue isn't actually that prevalent.

What rental company have 2018+ gt's? pretty sure they all have 2017's ? Any search on google yields nothing and all show 2017 and below.

 

[ihc95]

For all '11-19 Coyote engines, I personally believe the tick is oil cavitation but the loose tolerances and/or sloppy production means each car has a varying degree of it. There are a lot of guys that don't have it at all. Then there are many owners like me that occasionally get a cold idle tick but it's completely gone when the car's warm. And of course there are guys with a bad, loud tick that is very frequent and never goes away. Too much oil cavitation can absolutely damage an engine so that's why there have been some engine replacements. But a small amount of oil cavitation is virtually harmless and why we see some Coyotes running strong at 100k miles with a tick. Diesels can experience the typewriter sound too and there are plenty with 200-300k miles running well.

I also think the Gen 3 Coyote tick is more prevalent due to the higher compression ratio.

To me, the only thing Ford can do to control this "issue" is to manufacture the engines to more tightly held tolerances (better GD&T?). Of course, this would dramatically increase the cost of the engine and is probably why the beancounters prevent it. But, don't forget that a high revving DOHC 4V V8 is very expensive with a lot of moving parts. This ain't no 5.7L Hemi. And now the Gen 3 with duel fuel injection and the plasma liners...you can almost understand why Ford doesn't spend more on manufacturing. Either way, this would never prevent me from buying the car, as the number of actual damaged engines due to the tick appear to be minimal.

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