The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[luc]

Thank you! Well noted on the orientation of wrap, and HT silicone.
I have a 2020 with the in-car temp gauge for the rear diff, which is mainly what I was watching while on the track. I wouldn’t need the temp sticker in that case correct?

As you already have noticed, you don’t really have time to look a gauges when you are on track ( it’s why race cars have warning lights on top of gauges) and it’s very distracting, the label allow you to know what is the highest temperature reached by the differential and concentrate on driving
The only gauges that I glance at are the oil temperature and pressure in the center of the dash between the a/c vents
Obviously I’m using the Shelby gauge otherwise I would have the useless vacuum gauge

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[shogun32]

3/ Slap a temperature sensitive label. On the differential, in the 200 to 300* range
https://markal.com/products/series-4-tempilabel?variant=9204793704495

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0880027
https://www.grainger.com/product/TEMPIL-Non-Reversible-Temp-Indicator-52HR57
https://www.royalsupply.com/store/p...pack10-26708-p79475.htm?atc=1&idproduct=79475 (cheapest by far)

 

[TundraOnKings]

As you already have noticed, you don’t really have time to look a gauges when you are on track ( it’s why race cars have warning lights on top of gauges) and it’s very distracting, the label allow you to know what is the highest temperature reached by the differential and concentrate on driving
The only gauges that I glance at are the oil temperature and pressure in the center of the dash between the a/c vents
Obviously I’m using the Shelby gauge otherwise I would have the useless vacuum gauge

I’ve wondered about the vacuum gauge. Do they use that just because it fluctuates back and forth frequently so it looks cool? lol

I'd recommend not spending too much on exhaust wrap because I've had to re-do it 2 or 3 different times. Either I scrape my exhaust on a driveway or speedbump, or 1 off track excursion and there is exhaust wrap hanging down and everyone keeps telling you "you know you have something dragging under your car, right?!"

Well that's been my experience at least lol. Buy the cheap stuff for like $16 on amazon for 50ft with the metal zip ties.

Lol! That’s why I ordered some of the screw-type clamps. I don’t want to be that guy

 

[boardkat]

I’ve wondered about the vacuum gauge. Do they use that just because it fluctuates back and forth frequently so it looks cool? lol

not much use when competing, but i find it useful after a session since the data transmits on the CANbus so i can sniff it and track down vacuum leaks (which have been a recurring issue as i've turned up the boost over the years)

 

[TundraOnKings]

not much use when competing, but i find it useful after a session since the data transmits on the CANbus so i can sniff it and track down vacuum leaks (which have been a recurring issue as i've turned up the boost over the years)

I’ve only made it half way through your build thread, so far absolutely amazing. Congrats on finding something you love so much and going after it! And succeeding with your wins!

 

[1 old racer]

Here is a photo of how I have my header wrap. Wrapped it from the back going forward with a 50% overlap and when I got it up front where I wanted it, I used a good old hose clamp to button it all up. It has been in place without any readjustments for three years now.

 

[boardkat]

I’ve only made it half way through your build thread, so far absolutely amazing. Congrats on finding something you love so much and going after it! And succeeding with your wins!

thanks! it's been one heckuva ride thus far; a lot more time, money and trial by fire than i'd ever expected, but every now and then it seems worth it when the car is running smooth and i'm focusing on competing! i stopped updating that build thread a few years ago and switched over to teh facespace; definitely check out the pinned sticky there for the current iteration - things changed substantially between june-october 2019 (when i blew the 2nd engine), and then went fully off the deep end in 2020.

btw, i might be @ PIR on friday for the CSCC event, assuming i get pulled off the waiting list and can reprint the brake duct inlets i melted accidentally at WSIR. barring that, will be autox-focused heading into july, but expect to be at the track most weekends in august.

 

[TundraOnKings]

thanks! it's been one heckuva ride thus far; a lot more time, money and trial by fire than i'd ever expected, but every now and then it seems worth it when the car is running smooth and i'm focusing on competing! i stopped updating that build thread a few years ago and switched over to teh facespace; definitely check out the pinned sticky there for the current iteration - things changed substantially between june-october 2019 (when i blew the 2nd engine), and then went fully off the deep end in 2020.

btw, i might be @ PIR on friday for the CSCC event, assuming i get pulled off the waiting list and can reprint the brake duct inlets i melted accidentally at WSIR. barring that, will be autox-focused heading into july, but expect to be at the track most weekends in august.

I unfortunately will be headed to Puyallup this weekend for my daughters soccer tournament and can’t make the CSCC event. We checked earlier in the week and it was booked. Good luck on making it! It would be really cool to see your car and soak up as much information as possible. I’ll have to check your other threads, fun reads! On engine #3, ouch! :-)

 

[shogun32]

Regarding the oil cooler location:
It’s why I went with the Harrop oil cooler
It seat parallel to the ground
https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/engine-oil-cooler-ford-mustang-gt

how about a group-buy on the Harrop?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/harrop-oil-cooler-group-buy-99-akit14319.163179/

 

[TundraOnKings]

how about a group-buy on the Harrop?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/harrop-oil-cooler-group-buy-99-akit14319.163179/

I’m lined up for a local race-car shop to install an oil-cooler and trans cooler (A10) sometime in September.

@boardkat - I’ll be at PIR TrackNight next Friday Aug 6th in the intermediate group. I’ll look for ya if you’re around. Although I would guess you’re somewhere across the country. :-)

 

[luc]

how about a group-buy on the Harrop?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/harrop-oil-cooler-group-buy-99-akit14319.163179/

Some feedback from a very hot day at the track:
I have a in-line sensor on the oil line just out of the engine and on a 103* track day, pushing the car on squared 305 nt01, the max oil temp was 257* and max water temperature, through the obd2 port, was 230*
Couple comments:
It’s at least a 20 to 30 cooler oil temp and imagine also how much higher would have been the water temperature with the factory oil to water oil cooler

 

[Canti]

I'll post this here since this seems like a more appropriate spot and it is kind of languishing on the transmission board. I went to Road Atlanta for a track event on Sunday and hit the thermal limits the 10r80 once they let the green group go full out during the second half of the day. I could get three laps (sometimes four if I hit traffic) out of the trans before it got too hot. So I'm debating a trans-cooler of some sort to help out.

The C&R racing cooler seems beefy as hell and might be just what I'm looking for, but I have not seen anyone really talk about it. No reviews, no installation videos that I could find. Has anyone here put this on their car? I know that it uses the stock lines from the OEM cooler so that is a plus. How was installation? The only thing I can maybe see that might interfere with mine is that I have the ZL1 tow hook on my car that could get in the way.

And any other ideas would be appreciated. The C&R one is pretty expensive for my to jump head first into buy it without know all the other options.

 

[Flyhalf]

There is a specific

I'll post this here since this seems like a more appropriate spot and it is kind of languishing on the transmission board. I went to Road Atlanta for a track event on Sunday and hit the thermal limits the 10r80 once they let the green group go full out during the second half of the day. I could get three laps (sometimes four if I hit traffic) out of the trans before it got too hot. So I'm debating a trans-cooler of some sort to help out.

The C&R racing cooler seems beefy as hell and might be just what I'm looking for, but I have not seen anyone really talk about it. No reviews, no installation videos that I could find. Has anyone here put this on their car? I know that it uses the stock lines from the OEM cooler so that is a plus. How was installation? The only thing I can maybe see that might interfere with mine is that I have the ZL1 tow hook on my car that could get in the way.

And any other ideas would be appreciated. The C&R one is pretty expensive for my to jump head first into buy it without know all the other options.

I'll post this here since this seems like a more appropriate spot and it is kind of languishing on the transmission board. I went to Road Atlanta for a track event on Sunday and hit the thermal limits the 10r80 once they let the green group go full out during the second half of the day. I could get three laps (sometimes four if I hit traffic) out of the trans before it got too hot. So I'm debating a trans-cooler of some sort to help out.

The C&R racing cooler seems beefy as hell and might be just what I'm looking for, but I have not seen anyone really talk about it. No reviews, no installation videos that I could find. Has anyone here put this on their car? I know that it uses the stock lines from the OEM cooler so that is a plus. How was installation? The only thing I can maybe see that might interfere with mine is that I have the ZL1 tow hook on my car that could get in the way.

And any other ideas would be appreciated. The C&R one is pretty expensive for my to jump head first into buy it without know all the other options.

There is a specific thread for 10r80.

Long story short. Yes u need a bigger cooler. Yes you need an oil cooler. Most of the engine oil cooler have supports for the upper grille. Remember that behind the AC on the top grille there is the trans cooler.

Second fact. Never ever pass 225 f on trans temp. When the trans starts acting weird...that means...bad news.
So be sure to keep it cool. Pr slow down before.

If limbmode happened. Maybe could be the engine oil temps.

If you need more info you can PM me
Or even better on IG @italian_stang where it is easier to answer

 

[1 old racer]

Are you going to put it under the factory unit in series or replace the factory unit? If you replace it then install seams very straight forward. I actually installed two additional smaller units side by side under the factory unit. The two Deral units were not large enough to really help. Keep us posted. Oh, and I still have a over heat issue so I will not track the car til the Temps drop outside.

 

[EFI]

hit the thermal limits the 10r80 once they let the green group go full out during the second half of the day. I could get three laps (sometimes four if I hit traffic) out of the trans before it got too hot.

What exactly were the thermal limits in terms of fluid temperature? And what were your symptoms when this happened?

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