The best track car?

[F0J]

Yeah like others said, buy a car and hit the track. Your near stock GT will make for a good car to get your feet wet. Save your money for the 4 Ts: Tools, Tires, Truck & Trailer.

I was in a similar spot a while back. I was a put off my 2015 base GT after driving it during the winter. You *really* feel that extra weight on the ice or in the slush. People on this forum said (and my research confirmed) that the Ecoboost required some additional enduro work for track with extra power which narrowed the power/weight gap a little but in the end 9/10 people would choose a bit more power (the V8) over a bit more lightness. One guy, I forget his name, prepped a pretty hardcore Ecoboost, gave up and bought a GT350 instead.

If you want light, build an Exocet.

Sponsored

 

[Grintch]

Want a track car after spending about $25k, including the car? Buy a used Miata and LS swap it. Put good rubber and a roll cage in. Done.

JR

Or buy a used Formula E(nterprises, not those stupid, overpriced electric Formula E's) , and run rings around LS Miatas, GT350R's, Corvette ZR1's, etc.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

One word; don’t.

Food for thought.

My EB was 3495 no driver and pretty much empty gas wise. This was a base with PP.

Made 350+ on the track tune and around 400 on my street tune with a borg Warner.

Weight savings were brakes, cf driveshaft, forged wheels and a hand made single exit exhaust that saved around 40lbs.

That thing was a piece of garbage, heat soak, diff overheating(pre temp sensor so it would just self destruct.), and again heat soak lol. I had the biggest IC from ATM, koyo rad, dual oil coolers and more.

I sold it for a Gt350 and have left it stock power wise. However I have a full race suspension, race seats, rollbar and the most weight savings you can do before pulling the interior or changing exterior panels. That car weighs 3640 no gas and no driver.

It’s a pure animal, dead reliable, and puts other cars to shame.

If you want a track car start with a base GT. Used ones can be had for cheap and will be a better base for sure. If I started with a GT I more than likely would have not bought a GT350

 

[Grintch]

One word; don’t.

Food for thought.

My EB was 3495 no driver and pretty much empty gas wise. This was a base with PP.

Made 350+ on the track tune and around 400 on my street tune with a borg Warner.

Weight savings were brakes, cf driveshaft, forged wheels and a hand made single exit exhaust that saved around 40lbs.

That thing was a piece of garbage, heat soak, diff overheating(pre temp sensor so it would just self destruct.), and again heat soak lol. I had the biggest IC from ATM, koyo rad, dual oil coolers and more.

I sold it for a Gt350 and have left it stock power wise. However I have a full race suspension, race seats, rollbar and the most weight savings you can do before pulling the interior or changing exterior panels. That car weighs 3640 no gas and no driver.

It’s a pure animal, dead reliable, and puts other cars to shame.

If you want a track car start with a base GT. Used ones can be had for cheap and will be a better base for sure. If I started with a GT I more than likely would have not bought a GT350

Unless it is a high dollar build, with say $4000 GT350 or aftermarket big brakes, your better off starting with a PP. Unless the plain GT is over $5K cheaper.

And if it is a high dollar build, probably better to just start with a GT350.

P. S. looking at your suggested mods, most won't make you much faster and your money would be spent better elsewhere. Skip all the expensive carbon fiber bodywork and put it in the suspension. It is the track, not a car show.

 

[sdiver68]

Start with a Miata. Or if you want HP and something a little unique, an FI BRZ. Or a Vette simply for aftermarket support and track knowledge. Easier to put power into a light car than lighten a heavy car. Plus, tire cost will eat you alive on a heavy car.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

I agree with sdiver68. The Corvette C5/C6 is basically "turn key" and ready for the road courses with significant aftermarket support. I tracked a race prepped '04 C5 for several years and now own a '13 C6 Grand Sport. Light... Well Balanced... Few Mods Required... Proven Tech.... Easy to service in the paddock... Allows you to focus on developing and refining your driver skills, etc.

 

[YoloBathsalts]

Going along with the advice others have provided, I would stay away from a weight reduced EB as a track car. Unless your going to entirely gut the thing and run the FP tune.
I had a 2016 EB base and my car survived 10 track days before I started having alot of problems. Valve cover ruptured, Transmission started slipping. Cooling issues all day without the PP cooling mods. Dont get me wrong it ran like a beast, great handling thanks to the weight and the I-4's linear weight distribution, decent power on the FP tune, but I sold it before it really started limping.

If you've already got a GT I would run that. Get spare rotors, pads, Oil, brake fluid, and few other things. If you have the base maybe look into bigger front brakes and some cooling ducts, and then you're good to go. I loved tracking my base EB but the mechanical aftermath was a nightmare and I constantly thought the car was going to crap out. That I-4 is great but I could feel it crumbling and I constantly ran into overheating issues that pulled timing back.

The GT on the other hand comes with almost everything you need to get started and I would get your feet wet with that and enjoy it. That or get a miata and some tires to go with it and run that until it dies. Every guy with a miata on track day is the happiest guy there and they genuinely have more fun than the guys passing them on the straights.

 

[Aaron1085]

I don't think it's feasible, sure anything is possible but....
I've taken 210 lbs out of my R, I'm down to 3450 and it's working out to be around $100 per lb.
So unless your going to gut and cut your car up, I really don't see you getting to 3000 lbs?

Dude. We HAVE to see this thing. Sounds badas* !!

Sponsored