The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[EFI]

How was installation? The only thing I can maybe see that might interfere with mine is that I have the ZL1 tow hook on my car that could get in the way.

The C&R cooler is a direct replacement for your existing one, which sits between the radiator and condenser. It should have 0 clearance issue with the towhook as it's nowhere near that. If your OEM cooler didn't have an issue, this won't either.

And while I didn't do the install, I think it's pretty easy once you take the radiator out. I swapped the radiator for something bigger, and when it was out I had a clear shot at the trans cooler and lines. It would have taken an extra 2 minutes to unhook the OEM unit and plug in the new one since it uses all the factory lines and connections.

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[Canti]

What exactly were the thermal limits in terms of fluid temperature? And what were your symptoms when this happened?

I had the car go into limp on my third session out. I was going all in and didn't notice the temps until I was going flat out on the back straight on my third lap for that session and the power cut out. I have the digital dash option in my car with the temp gauges displayed and it showed the trans just above the red area.

 

[TundraOnKings]

I had the car go into limp on my third session out. I was going all in and didn't notice the temps until I was going flat out on the back straight on my third lap for that session and the power cut out. I have the digital dash option in my car with the temp gauges displayed and it showed the trans just above the red area.

Keep the thread updated if that’s the route you go.

 

[Canti]

Keep the thread updated if that’s the route you go.

Will do, but that will be much futher down the line. I've spent too much on the car already this year. If I do pick it up, it will be either be closer to November before my next track day at Barber, or early next year.

 

[EFI]

I had the car go into limp on my third session out. I was going all in and didn't notice the temps until I was going flat out on the back straight on my third lap for that session and the power cut out. I have the digital dash option in my car with the temp gauges displayed and it showed the trans just above the red area.

So you didn't get an actual temp reading just that it was red? And all other temps were fine?

I could have sworn that Allesandro got it way hot and it started slipping/acting weird but didn't actually go into limp mode. I heard of limp mode from engine and diff overheating.

 

[Canti]

So you didn't get an actual temp reading just that it was red? And all other temps were fine?

I could have sworn that Allesandro got it way hot and it started slipping/acting weird but didn't actually go into limp mode. I heard of limp mode from engine and diff overheating.

Yup. The engine temps have never been an issue for me in this car. And Sunday was pretty hot. On my hottest session it hit 90 degrees ambient. The transmission temp is my car's Achilles heel.

 

[Canti]

Yup. The engine temps have never been an issue for me in this car. And Sunday was pretty hot. On my hottest session it hit 90 degrees ambient. The transmission temp is my car's Achilles heel.

No funny shifts or anything. I just noticed a sudden loss of power on back straight and when I looked down to my gauges, I noticed that the transmission was only just above the red portion of the dial. On my way back to the paddock I got warning about the transmission temp right before I shut the car off to cool down.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Yup. The engine temps have never been an issue for me in this car. And Sunday was pretty hot. On my hottest session it hit 90 degrees ambient. The transmission temp is my car's Achilles heel.

That’s odd. Have you overheated the rear diff?
Are you in track mode, manually shifting, or “S” auto mode?
I overheated the diff, trans, and engine oil my first track day out. Threw all 3 codes.
Wrapped the rear exhaust with titanium DEI and switched to BG 75-140, and my last track session rear diff was great, engine oil and trans temps - were high. I don’t know what cut out, but on the front stretch I hit a limiter @ 120mph and the car wouldn’t go any faster. I threw no codes.
I can almost overheat the engine oil, making groups of pulls on the freeway! That should never happen, in my opinion.

I’m in a 2020 GT PP1 w/ A10.

And I’m doing engine oil and trans coolers soon.

 

[Canti]

That’s odd. Have you overheated the rear diff?
Are you in track mode, manually shifting, or “S” auto mode?
I overheated the diff, trans, and engine oil my first track day out. Threw all 3 codes.
Wrapped the rear exhaust with titanium DEI and switched to BG 75-140, and my last track session rear diff was great, engine oil and trans temps - were high. I don’t know what cut out, but on the front stretch I hit a limiter @ 120mph and the car wouldn’t go any faster. I threw no codes.
I can almost overheat the engine oil, making groups of pulls on the freeway! That should never happen, in my opinion.

I’m in a 2020 GT PP1 w/ A10.

And I’m doing engine oil and trans coolers soon.

Only thing I've done to the front of the car is Install the RTR grille. So more air flow from that automatically, and when I got my tow hook installed, I had to remove the active shutters, which you already don't have since you have a performance pack car with the bigger radiator. I use Amsoil in my engine, so maybe that helps. But I've never had an engine temperature warning or a diff temp warning.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Only thing I've done to the front of the car is Install the RTR grille. So more air flow from that automatically, and when I got my tow hook installed, I had to remove the active shutters, which you already don't have since you have a performance pack car with the bigger radiator. I use Amsoil in my engine, so maybe that helps. But I've never had an engine temperature warning or a diff temp warning.

Good info, thank you! I had a local racecar shop quote me for an oil cooler and trans cooler, but part of my holding off was because they said I had active shutters/louvers and my car would throw a code if they disconnected them. I couldn’t find anything on what they were talking about. That’s great news if my PP1 doesn’t have them.
Amsoil- I might try a different brand than Ford. I did move to 5w-30 vs 5w-20, and not sure how much exactly that helped.

 

[Canti]

Good info, thank you! I had a local racecar shop quote me for an oil cooler and trans cooler, but part of my holding off was because they said I had active shutters/louvers and my car would throw a code if they disconnected them. I couldn’t find anything on what they were talking about. That’s great news if my PP1 doesn’t have them.
Amsoil- I might try a different brand than Ford. I did move to 5w-30 vs 5w-20, and not sure how much exactly that helped.

Yeah, the ecoboost and performance pack cars don't have the active shutters since they have the bigger radiators. I don't think they would fit. There is a way to remove the shuters without the car knowing that it's gone. If you take it to Mustang shop, they'll probably know the trick. The little motor that open and shuts the flaps is still in the car working. I think it is some type of loop they do have it still work, but it's just not connected to the shutters anymore. I have them sitting in my coat closet if I ever want to sell or trade in the car, they'll go back on.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Yeah, the ecoboost and performance pack cars don't have the active shutters since they have the bigger radiators. I don't think they would fit. There is a way to remove the shuters without the car knowing that it's gone. If you take it to Mustang shop, they'll probably know the trick. The little motor that open and shuts the flaps is still in the car working. I think it is some type of loop they do have it still work, but it's just not connected to the shutters anymore. I have them sitting in my coat closet if I ever want to sell or trade in the car, they'll go back on.

At least in my case and a number of others removing the shutters completely does not result in a dash light or any affect to performance. It does throw a DTC but you only see that with a scanner and it doesn't affect functionality of any other aspects of the car (other than running cooler of course)

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

One way to skin this cat. Fluidyne triple pass and setrab 948 for engine oil. Ducting made from 0.040” aluminum sheet.

Next is diff and trans coolers.

 

[TundraOnKings]

One way to skin this cat. Fluidyne triple pass and setrab 948 for engine oil. Ducting made from 0.040” aluminum sheet.

Next is diff and trans coolers.

Nice!!! My car goes into the shop here in 2 weeks for engine oil and A10 trans cooler. BG140 and wrap fixed the rear diff, we’ll see what happens this March I guess. Crossing my fingers I can stay on track for a 20min sesh.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Nice!!! My car goes into the shop here in 2 weeks for engine oil and A10 trans cooler. BG140 and wrap fixed the rear diff, we’ll see what happens this March I guess. Crossing my fingers I can stay on track for a 20min sesh.

Update - engine oil cooler being installed today. Trans cooler goes in tomorrow below the crash bar.

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