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Stay with OEM stuff, no need to go crazy based on your driving.

How much are you saving on a tankful of 87 vs 91...maybe $5? How much are you spending on a full day track event...probably north of $500? In the grand scheme of things, is $5 out of $500 really that big of a deal? Pack lunch instead of buying it at the track and you just saved yourself more...

87 is bad enough for the street, why would you want to run that in such an extreme environment as a track day where you're going WOT for minutes on end and everything gets so hot? It's not even for the power, but the knock control. I wouldn't even consider it.

It does if you drive around without a hood on or if you have a big hole in it. Generally speaking wiring should not be getting wet everytime it rains if you have an OEM hood on, that's the whole point of them is to keep the elements out. Sure a tiny bit of water can get in right below the hood...

Same as the car they came in originally...not as of right now.

I would think so, it's a shortblock built to OEM specifications by the OEM...just with different components. Same block, stroke, bore etc. Secondly, not sure exactly how anyone would be able to tell you have an aftermarket rotating assembly when the engine is in the car and running. The block...

If you're happy with the longevity of the stock engine, I would say that's a solid choice as the bottom end is virtually the same. If you want somewhat better longevity, the Aluminator has the upgraded components. Along with proper oil control from the bigger pan and a solid top end should make...

I would drop $6k on the aluminator shortblock and button up with your topend and the rest of the accessories. I would also do the Predator pan and oil pump along with a few other small upgrades in the valvetrain.

They're all the same. Just make sure you get non-magride springs if you don't have magride and the opposite...get magride specific springs if you have magride. The Shelby springs will fit anything from a V6 to a Mach1.

Should be right below the driver's side taillight on the inside of the trunk, you have to pull some carpet panels out of the way to see it.

40 when you started the engine normally, or 40 while you were cranking and priming it prior to actually starting? Did you see any gain in psi while you were priming the engine?

Is it though? Have you measured how much pressure it was actually making? I've done this when building engines, and before you start it for the first time you're supposed to pull the fuel pump fuse, drain the fuel lines of gas and just let it crank (without starting obviously since there's no...

Called a tow truck and got a ride back home from a friend that attended with me. Another time I drove my friend's trailered car home while he towed my broken down car in his trailer. Moral of the story...don't go to the track alone or make friends there.

I think you'll be ok if you shut it off as quickly as you did. The PCM has pretty good safety measures built in to prevent major damage, and will give warnings with plenty of time before it's really an issue.

You're overthinking this...the hot air from the headers is there regardless of what's above the supercharger. Think of which of these 2 scenarios you want: 1 - closed hood, all of the hot air from the supercharger and headers rises up and gets blocked by the hood trapping it all in the engine...

What you're thinking of is a hood vent directly over where the supercharger is to let hot air escape thus cooling everything. Look at what the GT500 is doing. The hood area is a low pressure zone, so air doesn't get "rammed in" but it escapes, so use that to your advantage. If you tried to ram...

In the general repair industry I can see that happening because all a repair facility going to do is punch in a part number in Ford's or LKQ's website (or any other parts dealers) and if it comes back as none available that generally means the end of the search. For an enthusiast however there...

Look at how many parts are available today for Foxbody or New Edge or S197 Mustangs. Maybe not brand new OEM parts, but there are plenty available due to the popularity of the car. You'll be fine in 10 years.

Bring some extra fluids like coolant and brake. Maybe a flashlight too along with some sockets an a screwdriver.

Shoot I've gotten 28+ on the highway with the A10. 25 is when I'm having fun and/or cruising at 90+.