VMP Odin Dying Issue

[SH!FT]

Mine with the Odin kit does the same thing now. It didnt do it for probably the first 6-7 months after install. If I drive somewhere, turn the car off, then try to start it within an hour, it does not start the firs time. I have to try 2-3 times for it to idle and not die. Very annoying at this point.

^^^^^^Exactly!!

I've been paying attention to IAT2 at and before hot start. Definitely noticing a pattern.

• IAT2 of greater than 120F results rough idle, low to no throttle response, and low vacuum for 10-30secs after starting.
• IAT2 of greater than 140F starts to result that annoying push start 3X then the rough idle explained above.

I think I've figured out how to at least get my coyote to always start on the first crank at hot start.

1. I get in the car and immediately set ignition position to "key on/engine off"
2. I allow the electronics to bootup for ~10 seconds while I get situated.
3. Car starts on the first crank. Rough idle still occurs.

I've been testing this method for a couple weeks now. It seems to work every time. Yes, I can still get it to require 3 cranks to start if I don't allow it time to boot up.

Let me know if this works for anyone else.

The jms booster shouldn't cause a hot start issue. It only boosts the voltage once you hit a certain pedal position.

@Zrussian13 I agree. Reason it's on my list to check is my interceptor gauge is reading pump voltage at 18v at idle and start (pedal position ~ 7-30%). 20v at WOT. Gauge could just be reading from the wrong pin.

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[illtal]

^^^^^^Exactly!!

I've been paying attention to IAT2 at and before hot start. Definitely noticing a pattern.

• IAT2 of greater than 120F results rough idle, low to no throttle response, and low vacuum for 10-30secs after starting.
• IAT2 of greater than 140F starts to result that annoying push start 3X then the rough idle explained above.

I think I've figured out how to at least get my coyote to always start on the first crank at hot start.

1. I get in the car and immediately set ignition position to "key on/engine off"
2. I allow the electronics to bootup for ~10 seconds while I get situated.
3. Car starts on the first crank. Rough idle still occurs.

I've been testing method for a couple weeks now. It seems to work every time. Yes, I can still get it to require 3 cranks to start if I don't allow it time to boot up.

Let me know if this works for anyone else.



@Zrussian13 I agree. Reason it's on my list to check is my interceptor gauge is reading pump voltage at 18v at idle and start (pedal position ~ 7-30%). 20v at WOT. Gauge could just be reading from the wrong pin.

I have my JMS to 18 hot all the time.
Key on starts the fuel pump prime. Likely, priming for the full prime cycle, and coming up to pressure completely has something to do with it. If it is indeed a boiling fuel problem doing this will help.

 

[rcwilli7]

I have my JMS to 18 hot all the time.
Key on starts the fuel pump prime. Likely, priming for the full prime cycle, and coming up to pressure completely has something to do with it. If it is indeed a boiling fuel problem doing this will help.

I have been doing this lately and it has essentially resolved the issue. I still can get some rough idle start ups but for the most part it never dies. Cool weather is ahead!

 

[jojo4711]

Its time to change spark plugs so I will do that this weekend. Anyone think this is a spark issue? Should I try a different gap and get with Lund?

 

[illtal]

Its time to change spark plugs so I will do that this weekend. Anyone think this is a spark issue? Should I try a different gap and get with Lund?

are you getting spark blow out or intermittent spark issues?
If not run the same gap: smaller gap can be used if you want as well.

 

[rcwilli7]

Its time to change spark plugs so I will do that this weekend. Anyone think this is a spark issue? Should I try a different gap and get with Lund?

I had new spark plugs installed and gapped to spec when I put the Odin in. The “pressing ‘on’ button and waiting 30ish seconds” has been the cure so far. I’ll be interested to see how it is with cooler weather coming.

 

[Zrussian13]

Is your throttle body clean? My idle was dropping on hot starts this summer. Never died but it would bog down pretty bad. I was tinkering the other weekend I figured I would clean my throttle body while I was doing other stuff. To my surprise my idle has been solid ever since.

 

[rcwilli7]

Is your throttle body clean? My idle was dropping on hot starts this summer. Never died but it would bog down pretty bad. I was tinkering the other weekend I figured I would clean my throttle body while I was doing other stuff. To my surprise my idle has been solid ever since.

Actually had to replace the first TB because it was defected, which is apparently common with the VMP twin jet. Put a new one in but didn’t change a thing with it dying. Actually died on the first start up after install because it did not sit very long before starting again.

 

[jojo4711]

I had new spark plugs installed and gapped to spec when I put the Odin in. The “pressing ‘on’ button and waiting 30ish seconds” has been the cure so far. I’ll be interested to see how it is with cooler weather coming.

I am not even that worried about the starting issue, I am more frustrated with the potential dying every time I come to a stop. Seriously annoying.

Is your throttle body clean? My idle was dropping on hot starts this summer. Never died but it would bog down pretty bad. I was tinkering the other weekend I figured I would clean my throttle body while I was doing other stuff. To my surprise my idle has been solid ever since.

I will do this also since I will be getting dirty anyway. Definitely cant hurt anything. Thanks for all the input guys, I will update if anything changes.

 

[tdstuart]

Hot starting is different than cold starting in the tune. My car had really bad fuel trims and would not start hot but would start fine cold.

Maybe try sending your tuner a log of a cold and hot start and see if they can see any value that would cause the car to not be happy.

 

[Temovic55]

I've changed the TB last week and the hiccup/hesitation is almost gone! I mean, I used to have the fluctioation between most rpm ranges while sweeping or driving but now the car feels waaaay smoother! I just need to get the best revision for this file with my tuner and I could say I am finally driving my Odin with less pain in the butt for the fist time!!

 

[SH!FT]

Has anyone tried improving the heat shielding their fuel lines yet?

 

[illtal]

Has anyone tried improving the heat shielding their fuels yet?

Honestly the blower spacer plates cure 99% sir

 

[SH!FT]

Typo : I meant to say improve heat shielding on fuel lines.

Thanks @illtal.

What spacer plates are you running?
How much did they raise the blower?
Did you add a thermal blanket under the IM as well?

Spacers may cause clearance issues with my setup. Not looking to ditch the strut tower brace or replace the factory motor mounts

 

[rcwilli7]

Typo : I meant to say improve heat shielding on fuel lines.

Thanks @illtal.

What spacer plates are you running?
How much did they raise the blower?
Did you add a thermal blanket under the IM as well?

Spacers may cause clearance issues with my setup. Not looking to ditch the strut tower brace or replace the factory motor mounts

What strut tower are you running with your setup?

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