VMP Odin Dying Issue

[engineermike]

I think there are two different issues we are talking about. I also had the vapor lock issue and a check valve in the fuel system completely solved it. This showed up as a long crank before starting if the engine was hot and sat a little while. Then there’s the idle down after hot restart. I’d don’t think these are the same thing.

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[illtal]

I think there are two different issues we are talking about. I also had the vapor lock issue and a check valve in the fuel system completely solved it. This showed up as a long crank before starting if the engine was hot and sat a little while. Then there’s the idle down after hot restart. I’d don’t think these are the same thing.

My car didn't ever long crank. it would immediately start, have no pedal and die.
About 3 weeks ago now it did it at a station after filling it after a hard drive.
I had to hold the pedal at about 10% to keep it going. took 3 cranks.
I thought it was the same thing maybe its a different issue. If so my bad.

 

[rcwilli7]

My car didn't ever long crank. it would immediately start, have no pedal and die.
About 3 weeks ago now it did it at a station after filling it after a hard drive.
I had to hold the pedal at about 10% to keep it going. took 3 cranks.
I thought it was the same thing maybe its a different issue. If so my bad.

Yep that’s my issue. I’ll try 2 times and then if I have to start a 3rd time I just slightly press the gas pedal and it’ll idle fine.

 

[illtal]

Yep that’s my issue. I’ll try 2 times and then if I have to start a 3rd time I just slightly press the gas pedal and it’ll idle fine.

Immediate start and die on initial cranks?

 

[rcwilli7]

Immediate start and die on initial cranks?

Yep on some warm starts. It’ll crank right up and drop past 750 RPM and die out. Cold starts or ones where it was sitting awhile are completely fine.

 

[illtal]

Yep on some warm starts. It’ll crank right up and drop past 750 RPM and die out. Cold starts or ones where it was sitting awhile are completely fine.

You're running anything not stock with the fueling?

 

[rcwilli7]

You're running anything not stock with the fueling?

VMP fuel rails, 56# injectors and the boost a pump

 

[illtal]

VMP fuel rails, 56# injectors and the boost a pump

Should be very rare that you have a problem, are you just driving it or beating on it? Have you checked the IATs when this happens?
My IATs are only 10-15 above ambient in the summer, but it could other things as well.
@engineermike is very knowledgeable and he may be able to shed some light on it.

I wonder if it's a phaser problem with the cams just dropping timing making it a weak start? Just thinking out loud.

 

[SH!FT]

My car didn't ever long crank. it would immediately start, have no pedal and die.
About 3 weeks ago now it did it at a station after filling it after a hard drive.
I had to hold the pedal at about 10% to keep it going. took 3 cranks.
I thought it was the same thing maybe its a different issue. If so my bad.

Yep that’s my issue. I’ll try 2 times and then if I have to start a 3rd time I just slightly press the gas pedal and it’ll idle fine.

Same^^^^^^^^^^^^ The 3 crank start is a new for me.

Anyone not running a pump volt booster having this issue?

I'm going to start chipping away at the easy stuff. I think I'm first going to confirm that the booster isn't causing the issue by setting it to a constant 14.5v. I'm running Roush's off the shelf tune that doesn't require the pump volt booster. From what I saw during the install the booster is controlled independently based on throttle position.

My booster came preprogrammed:

• 14.5v to 18v output (my inceptor gauge reads 20v at times)
• 2.4v input trigger
• 0.8v ramp

I'm running a Roush crank pulley. Next time I have the undercover removed I think I'll confirm that the pulley is still torqued (~135 ft-lbs) then relearn the RDT misfire correction.

 

[illtal]

Same^^^^^^^^^^^^ The 3 crank start is a new for me.

Anyone not running a pump volt booster having this issue?

I'm going to start chipping away at the easy stuff. I think I'm first going to confirm that the booster isn't causing the issue by setting it to a constant 14.5v. I'm running Roush's off the shelf tune that doesn't require the pump volt booster. From what I saw during the install the booster is controlled independently based on throttle position.

My booster came preprogrammed:

• 14.5v to 18v output (my inceptor gauge reads 20v at times)
• 2.4v input trigger
• 0.8v ramp

I'm running a Roush crank pulley. Next time I have the undercover removed I think I'll confirm that the pulley is still torqued (~135 ft-lbs) then relearn the RDT misfire correction.

problem with not having a booster with a returnless is if you get into long pulls, without it your fuel pump may not be able to keep up even on 93. I'd highly doubt it would be causing a problem, since I have had mine on for 2+ years with no problems.

 

[SH!FT]

problem with not having a booster with a returnless is if you get into long pulls, without it your fuel pump may not be able to keep up even on 93. I'd highly doubt it would be causing a problem, since I have had mine on for 2+ years with no problems.

Would only flip it to constant 14.5v before warm start to see if the issue still occurs.

I don't expect it to be the root cause but it's an easy test. I drove with the booster installed for a couple weeks before doing the SC and don't remember having issues.

 

[rcwilli7]

Should be very rare that you have a problem, are you just driving it or beating on it? Have you checked the IATs when this happens?
My IATs are only 10-15 above ambient in the summer, but it could other things as well.
@engineermike is very knowledgeable and he may be able to shed some light on it.

I wonder if it's a phaser problem with the cams just dropping timing making it a weak start? Just thinking out loud.

Mainly just normal driving. My IATs are usually pretty high on the startups that it dies on.

 

[Zrussian13]

The jms booster shouldn't cause a hot start issue. It only boosts the voltage once you hit a certain pedal position.

 

[illtal]

Mainly just normal driving. My IATs are usually pretty high on the startups that it dies on.

yea I would make sure that everything is working correctly pump etc.

 

[jojo4711]

Mine with the Odin kit does the same thing now. It didnt do it for probably the first 6-7 months after install. If I drive somewhere, turn the car off, then try to start it within an hour, it does not start the firs time. I have to try 2-3 times for it to idle and not die. Very annoying at this point. I have talked to Lund and still not fixed. It also has a somewhat rough idle when downshifting coming to a stop light. It has died twice while slowing down. Idle just drops after going from 3rd to 1st gear. Even when it does not die, RPM's drop to 450-550 and then jump back up to around 800 almost every time I come to a stop. If anyone has found a fix, that would be awesome.

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