VMP Odin Dying Issue

[rcwilli7]

I recently had a VMP Odin put in on my ‘19 Mustang and I keep having an issue where the car will die out on start up. The car fires fine but then quickly drops in RPMs and dies out. It will never happen to me on a true cold start up (like in the morning) but will happen after I drive it for a bit, turn it off, and then try to drive again shortly thereafter. I also had it happen to me once while waiting to turn left with the car fully running.

I have talked to Lund about the issue and even received an updated tune file but it did not help the issue. If it happens I usually have to keep my foot slightly on the gas on startup for 3 or so seconds and then it will idle just fine. Lund said it could be because my IATs are reading high on startups after driving so I’m thinking maybe the car is reducing power because of the high IATs and it’s just not enough to keep the car running.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

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[Jackson1320]

your not giving much to go on. no codes?

 

[rcwilli7]

your not giving much to go on. no codes?

Nope no codes — that’s why it’s so odd to me.

 

[Goterr0r]

Are you monitoring your IAT2 temp? That will tell you if your getting too hot post blower. Unless your pump isn't working and circulating coolant then i really doubt your temps are so high it would stall the car. You'd also be going into full limp mode when they get that high. I have a Roush blower, ask me how i know this....

If your not watching your IAT2 temps, you can do this with phone apps like OBD Fusion or buy an Aeroforce intercepter gauge.

 

[rcwilli7]

Are you monitoring your IAT2 temp? That will tell you if your getting too hot post blower. Unless your pump isn't working and circulating coolant then i really doubt your temps are so high it would stall the car. You'd also be going into full limp mode when they get that high. I have a Roush blower, ask me how i know this....

If your not watching your IAT2 temps, you can do this with phone apps like OBD Fusion or buy an Aeroforce intercepter gauge.

I only have what the TDN app and my car is showing me. It’s just weird it never does it on start up in the morning or after sitting for awhile — just after it has been shut off for a short amount of time.

 

[engineermike]

A lot of Whipple cars do that too. I haven’t dug into it enough to figure it out, but I’d start by logging desired airmass, maf, desired torque, brake torque, torque source, timing, spark source, and spark torque ratio. I’m sure it has something to do with the air temp but the sensors and controls should be calibrated well enough to work even at high iat.

 

[Temovic55]

I will contribute just the fact I was having the same issues and it was more related to the tune! My car used to die at a stop or right after cornering slowly! I switched tuner then the die off issue went away with my current tuner. The only issue I'm still having is the little hesitation/hiccup @ low speed between 1st & 2nd gear (MT) which have lead me to drop off the TB and send it back to VMP as I ran out of revisions without a permanent remedy! Still waiting for the replacement TB and hopefully I get it done this time! Like ''engineermike '' said, tuning that TB, AFR, Spark pretty much it as those engines depends on those factors for calculating ( Torque management tables ) Give your tuner sometime to get it right or look for other mechanical/Electrical issues you might be having!

 

[rcwilli7]

I will contribute just the fact I was having the same issues and it was more related to the tune! My car used to die at a stop or right after cornering slowly! I switched tuner then the die off issue went away with my current tuner. The only issue I'm still having is the little hesitation/hiccup @ low speed between 1st & 2nd gear (MT) which have lead me to drop off the TB and send it back to VMP as I ran out of revisions without a permanent remedy! Still waiting for the replacement TB and hopefully I get it done this time! Like ''engineermike '' said, tuning that TB, AFR, Spark pretty much it as those engines depends on those factors for calculating ( Torque management tables ) Give your tuner sometime to get it right or look for other mechanical/Electrical issues you might be having!

Man first day after running through all the tests with Lund and getting the go ahead I ran into the same TB issue with VMP. Had to send it back and get a replacement and thankfully haven’t had any more issues. I had Lund send the revision but it didn’t help so I may just have to keep going back and forth with them.

 

[Temovic55]

Man first day after running through all the tests with Lund and getting the go ahead I ran into the same TB issue with VMP. Had to send it back and get a replacement and thankfully haven’t had any more issues. I had Lund send the revision but it didn’t help so I may just have to keep going back and forth with them.

Yea keep on tracking and pushing with Lund! Unfortunately, I live in middle east and sending back and forth for the correct functional TB is a huge bet but I'm being optimistic af at this stage. Remember, any modification to the front grille will upset the MAF reading and therefore it will give a terrible driving experience.
Good Luck mate

 

[SH!FT]

I recently had a VMP Odin put in on my ‘19 Mustang and I keep having an issue where the car will die out on start up. The car fires fine but then quickly drops in RPMs and dies out. It will never happen to me on a true cold start up (like in the morning) but will happen after I drive it for a bit, turn it off, and then try to drive again shortly thereafter. I also had it happen to me once while waiting to turn left with the car fully running.

Are you running a boost-a-pump?

Been having a similar issue with my Roushcharged 2020. Only happens on warm starts. What seems to work best for me is to put the car in "key on engine off" for ~10 seconds before attempting to start. Luckily I've never had the engine stall out while driving.

Since the SC install, I'll sometimes get a rough lurching idle at warm startup until I tap gas a couple times. Worst case (this started happening after installing the interchiller), the engine won't fire until the 3rd push to start attempt then rough idle. This is irrorating and a little embarrassing.

It's definitely getting fuel. I can smell gas after it fails the push start cycle.

I'll pay more attention to start IAT2's patterns. Mine can still be 160F at start due to radiant heat even with the chiller.

 

[rcwilli7]

Are you running a boost-a-pump?

Been having a similar issue with my Roushcharged 2020. Only happens on warm starts. What seems to work best for me is to put the car in "key on engine off" for ~10 seconds before attempting to start. Luckily I've never had the engine stall out while driving.

Since the SC install, I'll sometimes get a rough lurching idle at warm startup until I tap gas a couple times. Worst case (this started happening after installing the interchiller), the engine won't fire until the 3rd push to start attempt then rough idle. This is irrorating and a little embarrassing.

It's definitely getting fuel. I can smell gas after it fails the push start cycle.

I'll pay more attention to start IAT2's patterns. Mine can still be 160F at start due to radiant heat even with the chiller.

Yep it has a boost a pump and I even checked last night to make sure it was installed it sounds like you are dealing with the exact same thing as me — hopefully one of us can find a solution soon.

 

[Andy13186]

Could try a KAM reset so it relearns idle. I had some idle surging on cold starts and doing a KAM reset did seem to fix that.

 

[illtal]

Can't believe this is still a thing.
I had this problem, it was the fuel getting hot in the rails and boiling.
I added blower spaceer plates and never looked back.

 

[rcwilli7]

Can't believe this is still a thing.
I had this problem, it was the fuel getting hot in the rails and boiling.
I added blower spaceer plates and never looked back.

It fixed it for you? Do you remember exactly what you installed?

 

[illtal]

It fixed it for you? Do you remember exactly what you installed?

Two things, 1 fuel pressure needs to be raised on hot starts if you consistently get this problem. more pressure raises the boiling point.
2 Harrop blower spacer plate. I got this much later on and I have only experienced a hot start problem ONCE, after flogging then filling the tank and immediately trying to start.

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