The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[boardkat]

@TundraOnKings just noticed you’re in my neck of the woods. find me when we cross paths (i run @ PIR, ORP and the ridge regularly), and i can point you in the right direction on cooling (and show you what i’ve done to mine)

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[TundraOnKings]

@TundraOnKings just noticed you’re in my neck of the woods. find me when we cross paths (i run @ PIR, ORP and the ridge regularly), and i can point you in the right direction on cooling (and show you what i’ve done to mine)

That would be very awesome, thank you. I’ll stop in and say hello. Are you on the Mustang track forum? Your screen name looks familiar.
I wanted to make the PIR tracknight 6/25 but it’s my sons birthday so I don’t think I’ll be able to. My friend that belongs to ORP has a few more buddy passes, so I’m sure I’ll be out there this summer on the club days. I’m debating buying a membership, but not sure I can cool the Mustang down to make it worth it. Ha! :-)
Hopefully I can.

 

[TundraOnKings]

I mean, what did you expect? I full blown out race car for 45k and to compete with cars that cost 3-4x as much?

IMO this is the biggest problem...expectations. People buy a budget "performance" car and expect it to be a turn key track car. If people set their expectations properly from the beginning on what this car is (and isn't), this thread wouldn't have 45 pages.

I figured with the bigger radiator and brakes it would be able to make it 20 min around the track. I don’t think that’s too much to ask out of a performance oriented vehicle (I think there is a handful of stock vehicles that can do that). When I was doing my homework on vehicles and trying to read article after article, I didn’t find much negative on the GT with PP1 or PP2 - unlike the base GT. So I bought the car, joined the forum, then found this thread.
I’m not mad about it, just wasn’t expecting it and kinda disappointed my track days will be cut short until I fix the issues. Guess it’s the price you pay for power. I’m sure after a few coolers it’s still cheaper than a GT350 :-)

 

[1 old racer]

If you are a newbie to HPDE then a stock pp1 will be fine under most day spring days. However the more you push the car the more heat become a issue. You will always chase the weakest link on a track car because you will always push it just a little harder each time you go out, no matter what car you take out there.

 

[luc]

If you are a newbie to HPDE then a stock pp1 will be fine under most day spring days. However the more you push the car the more heat become a issue. You will always chase the weakest link on a track car because you will always push it just a little harder each time you go out, no matter what car you take out there.

That is 100% true of any street based track/race car
The only car that I ever raced that did not have any weakness was my Roush Mustang Trans Am

 

[TundraOnKings]

If you are a newbie to HPDE then a stock pp1 will be fine under most day spring days. However the more you push the car the more heat become a issue. You will always chase the weakest link on a track car because you will always push it just a little harder each time you go out, no matter what car you take out there.

That’s what I was hoping for, being a newbie and all. But I ended up worrying about the car overheating….which was an annoyance/worry while trying to drive the correct lines. You can see in some of the videos I’m toggling the steering wheel button trying to check my temperatures. I was very aware of my mirrors, and pointed folks by quickly and safely. Thankfully the track was open all day, 29 people total, and we would go out when most came in. So thankfully no traffic and I only had to point by less than 10 times the entire day.
I scanned my codes tonight - this is what popped up.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Also, how much feet did it take to wrap the exhaust by the diff? I was thinking 50ft was overkill, is 30ft too short? I was looking at DEI stuff - and it looks like the titanium stuff and EXO is the best for keeping the temperatures down. It gets fairly expensive, so figured I’d ask. Thanks!

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Also, how much feet did it take to wrap the exhaust by the diff? I was thinking 50ft was overkill, is 30ft too short? I was looking at DEI stuff - and it looks like the titanium stuff and EXO is the best for keeping the temperatures down. It gets fairly expensive, so figured I’d ask. Thanks!

30 feet? 9 meters? What?

This is not a recommendation yet, but you can also have a look at this:
https://www.amazon.com/-/es/gp/product/B0051UPC48/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought it a year ago (the 1 feet wide, 2 feet long size), but have unfortunately not installed it yet. (Time issue as I want to figure out how to measure the difference before/after in an acceptable way first, and I've been fine with alternating slower and faster laps so far. My brain needs some cool down too.)

 

[shogun32]

10 inches per revolution x ( linear distance x 2 / width of tape) should be the upper bound. The factor is probably closer to 1.6 than 2.

 

[Ewheels]

Also, how much feet did it take to wrap the exhaust by the diff? I was thinking 50ft was overkill, is 30ft too short? I was looking at DEI stuff - and it looks like the titanium stuff and EXO is the best for keeping the temperatures down. It gets fairly expensive, so figured I’d ask. Thanks!

I used 50ft titanium wrap and it was the perfect amount

 

[c_reber]

I'd recommend not spending too much on exhaust wrap because I've had to re-do it 2 or 3 different times. Either I scrape my exhaust on a driveway or speedbump, or 1 off track excursion and there is exhaust wrap hanging down and everyone keeps telling you "you know you have something dragging under your car, right?!"

Well that's been my experience at least lol. Buy the cheap stuff for like $16 on amazon for 50ft with the metal zip ties.

 

[shogun32]

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/ for 6"x5' (times 2, SKU 819825010183)
$68/each. They also make the same thing in a 10' length for $131

 

[TundraOnKings]

Excellent!! Thank you all! I ordered 3” stainless screw-clamps too, since I don’t have a tool to tighten the steel bands. Did the DEI titanium since it was rated higher temp than EXO.

 

[luc]

Couple of tips
1/ Start wrapping at the back of the differential and work forward , that way the edges of the wrap are also facing the back of the car and less susceptible to damages
2/ Use some high temp silicone at a few locations , sealing the edge to the wrap underneath, once again less chances of unraveling by doing it that way
3/ Slap a temperature sensitive label. On the differential, in the 200 to 300* range
https://markal.com/products/series-4-tempilabel?variant=9204793704495

 

[TundraOnKings]

Couple of tips
1/ Start wrapping at the back of the differential and work forward , that way the edges of the wrap are also facing the back of the car and less susceptible to damages
2/ Use some high temp silicone at a few locations , sealing the edge to the wrap underneath, once again less chances of unraveling by doing it that way
3/ Slap a temperature sensitive label. On the differential, in the 200 to 300* range
https://markal.com/products/series-4-tempilabel?variant=9204793704495

Thank you! Well noted on the orientation of wrap, and HT silicone.
I have a 2020 with the in-car temp gauge for the rear diff, which is mainly what I was watching while on the track. I wouldn’t need the temp sticker in that case correct?

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