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SCCA CAM-C Thread

mavisky

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NightmareMoon

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Finally got the stupid extended ball joint control arm I was waiting on Saturday. Pretty straight forward swap. Couldn't get the jack up to get the angle perfect before tightening it down without running completely bone dry on patience, so close enough.

Also got the replacement rings for the steeda two-piece rotors. That job was way easier than I assumed and was almost actually enjoyable in an OCD kind of way. Mine were worn to the point the slots were nearly gone (on the outside). Interesting both were in better shape on the inside than the outside, so I wonder if my caliper pistons are starting to get sticky, or maybe its cooling related (airflow hits the rotors on the inside?)

I wasn't planning on it but there was a CWI PCA event the next day 11 minutes from my house, so took a gamble.

Only like 20 cars, so we all got 10 runs. Small lot, so they did a big crossover which was worth 53+ seconds of an actually pretty good course, reusing a full slalom right in the middle. That club seemed to only have one timing light, so the start line was the finish line. That meant the "not overlaps" were >60 seconds, but with so few people we still got out before 2pm. One spot there was a dip that required smashing the splitter each run. I don't think I did any permanent damage. (marine plywood material has been fantastic)

Being a loosely run PCA event and not a SCCA event, safety factors weren't ideal. Some proximity to light poles and curbs would make an SCCA steward shudder, but what I really didn't like was continuing the event with corner workers on station with lightning strikes nearby. Overall, had a good time and would go back because I really did like the course design.

I'll tell ya either I'm rusty as heck and don't know how wide my own car is, or the diminutive grid-sized cones they were using on course were messing with my judgement of cone to car spacing, cause I hit cones on like 6 of 10 runs and was dirty the entire first heat. I slapped one hard with the rear tire fishtailing to the finish and I guess it was good for a field goal on the nearby football field.
 

NightmareMoon

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Use the titanium skid plates on the splitter. Next to no damage to mine since installing and no longer damaging mounting hardware.

ARSCCA_2026_Pts01_ 0867-(ZF-1872-13308-1-010).webp
I have 2 of them em and they were putting on a good fireworks show. Actually getting them in the right spot has been a little tricky. I might just need to add one right in the center, that might do it.
 

mavisky

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I have 2 of them em and they were putting on a good fireworks show. Actually getting them in the right spot has been a little tricky. I might just need to add one right in the center, that might do it.
I run 2 on the leading edge, 2 near the mounting hardware, and two aluminum skids on the outer edges.
 

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WItoTX

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I have 2 of them em and they were putting on a good fireworks show. Actually getting them in the right spot has been a little tricky. I might just need to add one right in the center, that might do it.
Put them where AJ puts them and the splitter will never touch. I have the car at work today if you want a photo, but AJ has locations on his site too.

I fully expected to replace my splitter every couple years, and I have been pleasantly surprised how much abuse it's taken, and 95% of that is thanks to the pucks.
 

NightmareMoon

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I’ve broken a few of PA carbon splitter rods (I keep spares), never broken splitter (knocks on wood splitter). Its mounted in a way where it has lots of flex upwards and doesnt push up on the bumper itself, only the front rods really resist, so they can frag if the hit is too hard, but generally its ok. My first one I tossed because it was not waterproof and warped too much.

Boy does it sound bad when its grinding across pavement at low speed exitting a driveway or something.

I hope this one continues to last because when I do replace it I’m going full 3D :)
 

Dallas J

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My Evo runs aluminum rods for its splitter support. Seems like a bad idea but its brilliant.

If I hit the ground on course, the rods bend but hold. So when I get back to grid, I can see which side hits and its already mostly self clearanced. Then I twist it up a turn or two and its good for the rest of the event.

After the event, I pull the rod and re-flatten in a vice. The same rods have been used for 8 years.
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